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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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crossley last won the day on January 30 2016

crossley had the most liked content!

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    marine engineer
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    furness vale

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  1. Why doesn't the prime minister admit who is pulling the strings here? She's just trying to appease the city at the expense of the man in the street. What the financiers are afraid of is london losing it's position as a trading capital, the flight of capital and a run on the pound. The people voted out, so let's get out! A second referendum is as daft as going in to bookies, placing a bet, then complaining when you didn't win and demanding your money back because you didn't quite understand the rules. To cede control of this country to a foreign power just for financial gain is sheer lunacy. What people are conveniently forgetting is eu has no tax raising powers in the UK as yet. I've just come back from 5 weeks working in Rotterdam. Not one person had a good word for the eu, everything has gone expensive and the taxes are much higher. Is that what people really want? To be dictated to by unelected beaurocrats in Brussels? Like him or not, I'm with farrarge. At least he shows some fighting spirit standing up to the bully boys in Europe. All power to his elbow!
  2. Looking for a decent joiner to undertake some cabin refitting Looking to start around Easter when weather bucks up. boat is on peak forest canal, either a mobile joiner, onsite, or I can move boat to joiners premesis if required. Any recommendations?
  3. Nice little earner for somebody overplating and changing anodes. All them boats sat there fizzing away merrily on shore supply. At least it won't freeze over in winter what with all the stray currents that'll be circulating!
  4. That reminds me of the circraft. These were a circular speedboat about 7 feet diameter designed by a friend of my father's in the mid 1970's. The outboard motor was fixed dead ahead, and steering was by leaning over to one side or the other. A few people had a go at making them but they never caught on. Was featured on tomorrow's world if I remember. They rode up on two plywood skis fitted underneath. Had the endearing habit of flipping right over if the motor was slammed in astern so the reverse gear had to be blanked off. I vividly remember going on a prototype on poynton pool during poynton show.
  5. Ok then, in the meantime, post up a few pics of this refit your just completing. I'm working in Tilbury docks for a couple of weeks so won't be at the boat. I'll pay a fair rate for quality work. No mdf or chipboard thank you, proper marine ply and wooden wood. Boats tend to get damp, houses generally don't.
  6. Ok then., bear in mind the "drive up distance" is important on taper mount bearings. Too loose and the bearing will move on the shaft, too tight and the bearing will overheat. Measure from the end of the adaptor to the front of the nut before disturbing it. Then tighten the ring nut to the same dimension when reassembling. Try and get a "c" spanner so you don't end up butchering the nut with a chisel.
  7. Hmm. As I understand it aren't the yokes supposed to be in the same plane? So up to a point one cancels out the other? I.e in phase? Got me thinking now.
  8. You can quote me for some joinery work. I'm in Manchester. Can do most things, but bloody hate woodwork. I'm looking for a good boat fitter/ wood butcher.
  9. Sounds like a taper mounted bearing. Is it a thin round ring nut with 4 slots in it and a tab washer around the shaft? If it is, then What you are seeing is the end of the adaptor sleeve. tightening the skf ring nut draws the tapered adaptor collet through the tapered bearing bore clamping the bearing onto the parallel shaft. Once the nut is backed off the bearing can be driven off the taper with a brass drift and a big hammer. They can be really tight.
  10. Is the engine mounted centrally, or offset to one side? I have a similar set up with an offset engine and a long truck prop shaft arrangement running under the back cabin. I get the same rumbling noise at certain low speeds, but can usually find a sweet spot where the vibrations cancel out. I think it's a product of the engine torque reversals, backlash in the gearbox and the long unsupported prop shaft. One day I'll look at fitting CV joints, but it's been like that for years now. Two things I did that helped reduce the vibrations were to reinforce the Plummer block bearing mounting with additional plating between the base plate and the bearing support making it really solid. Also I fitted a heavy coil spring and washers inside the splined end of the shaft to put some preload on the bearings. This made most improvement. I used an old valve spring and an assortment of washers to give some end load. This is assuming your shaft is splined at one end and your Plummer block is taking the thrust. Firstly though I'd strip and clean the bearing make sure it's ok. If the outer race is thick enough, you can always fit an anti rotation peg by grinding a square notch on the corner with a thin slitting wheel and drill and tap the housing to suit for a grubscew, say M4 or M5. Hope this helps.
  11. When Paul Gardner's overhauled my pump top they erased the old lines and scribed New ones. The sprayers were numbered to each cylinder and the output balanced on the gardner machine. Maybe some pump shops aren't so particular.
  12. Do the easy stuff first. First use the priming levers to check the injectors all make squeak or grunt when the lever is pulled quickly. Check they all have a similar resistance, ie take the same effort to operate. Do this with each fuel pump tappet in turn at the bottom of its stroke. Check tappet clearance and decompresor shaft adjustment on no 1 cyl. Remove flywheel inspection cover and check timing lines align with the scribed lines in the little Windows on the pump. It does sound as if no. 1 cyl is getting little or no fuel. It's not smoking badly so compression is good. If no1 fuel pump lever is easier to operate than the others, check the delivery valve spring is ok.
  13. As above. It looks like the vetus unit on mine. the two stainless cap screws go through the motor stool, the wall of the tube and into the bronze hub carrying the impeller inside the tube. Don't undo them unless your in dock and have access to the tube to 're- make the joint once you disturbed it. It's not the most robust mounting arrangement but seems to work ok. If it's not leaking leave well alone. Again, A coffer dam or a full height bulkhead is a good idea should the worst happen.
  14. This was an attempt at actually measuring fuel consumed whilst moving, against a stopwatch. Once you add in other variables, like river currents, waiting at lock landings, battery charging etc, the results would be different again, more in line with your results. Remember I'm only measuring over one hour under optimum conditions, I.e engine fully warmed up, very little parasitic loads etc.
  15. Have been playing about with a calibrated fuel measuring flask for a while now, it's really just a little two pint tank with a glass tube on one side marked in 1/16 pint divisions. Results so far are between 1 9/16 to 1 5/8 pints per hour, over timed 1 hour runs, with fully charged batteries, at normal cruising speeds. This bears out the average of a litre an hour, for most narrowboats, this being a little less, at around 0.9 litres per hour. This is for a 65 foot trad, driving 24x19 prop through 2:1 reduction. Draft 30" alternator load minimal, 5-6 amps, lighting load. Probably not far short of what a modern engine can achieve. The above figures were measured over time, not distance travelled, at a sensible cruising speed.
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