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Eeyore

Member
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About Eeyore

  • Birthday 05/22/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Great Haywood
  • Interests
    Canals, boats and boat electrics, Preserved Railways, model railways.
  • Occupation
    Senior work avoidance technician at Retired
  • Boat Name
    WindWhistle
  • Boat Location
    Great Haywood

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  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. Something like https://www.solar-wind.co.uk/off-grid-power-electrical-accessories/12v-24v-48v-dc-rated-mcbs-circuit-breakers-enclosures/jtec-single-pole-mcb-circuit-breaker-6a-to-63a-10ka#/38-mcb_value-50_a mounted in a single module din enclosure.
  3. Eeyore

    Oil leak

    On a related topic, ask for the coolant pipe to be rerouted behind the belt so that you don’t need to drain the coolant in order to change the belt. Mine came with two belts already threaded onto the coolant pipe, which you could do if rerouting is awkward. This image following lockdown for reference, just a bit of rust. You will notice the larger machined pulley bolted to the existing pulley. Also a more common A127 with two mounting lugs. The original alternator was the single 53mm single foot type that fitted between the two blue brackets. The blue bracket is also the adaptor for the remote oil filter.
  4. Definitely had babies heads in a ration pack, just didn’t know they were called that. Tasted ok.
  5. Surprising how many people forget about the desert 🧈
  6. Don’t know why I gave you a greenie, should be reporting you for mental cruelty this time of night 🤪
  7. Eeyore

    Oil leak

    Yes, I’m still curious as to the location of the front engine mounts, none visible in the pictures so far.
  8. Give a location, I’m sure someone in your area will know of somewhere that supplies off cuts.
  9. Best guess is about 30mm of exposed thread (assuming 1.5 mm pitch), way too high. No wonder it required adjusting several times. If I "inherited" that as a maintenance job I might say something like "it needs sorting, but live with it till you've had the life out of the mounts, it will give you time to save up for the remedial works". I'm sure you've had a similar conversation. Minimum of 20mm shim/packer on the rear mounts, although I might go for 25mm given that you already know the static deflection. That would leave you with approx 2mm of exposed thread on a new mount for a 25mm shim or 7mm for a 20mm shim.; both figures will increase as the mount is adjusted for settlement.
  10. I for one would be happy to see this deleted. I only have five of those digits in the registration number of my 30ish foot boat. Even I did a double take when I saw it. Now where do I direct this baying mob armed with torches and pitch forks.
  11. @jessie can you post a few photos please. It would be good to see how high the engine is on the mount.
  12. Wow indeed, I don't think I could manage that with my fat fingers 😇. The mounts should/would have been readjusted after the first 48 hours or so, did that happen? Sounds like the shim plate will be quite thick. In this case weld them in and drill and tap to allow the use of set bolts to hold the mount down. This makes them much easier to position during the set up as you don't need to grow a third arm to hold the nut under the beds! If other people do the servicing is it possible that someone did you a favour by tightening a loose mount; by tightening the top nuts instead of the bottom one. Other than that everything goes south with age as @IanD mentioned.
  13. I quite like this image (borrowed from the AVI page) showing the optimal installation of a marine mount on what appears to be a piece of auxiliary equipment. Its highlights why we should install the engine leg as low as possible on the height adjuster, and use a shim plate beneath the mount to achieve this. You could of course install exactly as in the photo by using a variety of thin metal shims under the mount. Mounting high on the adjuster is a bit like handing the engine a crow bar to lever the mount.
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