Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

33 Neutral

About Eeyore

  • Birthday 05/22/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Great Haywood
  • Interests
    Canals, boats and boat electrics, Preserved Railways, model railways.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Senior work avoidance technician at Retired
  • Boat Name
    Done Doing
  • Boat Location

Recent Profile Visitors

5460 profile views
  1. @cutandpolished61 are you still at Great Haywood marina?
  2. Something from this range should be ok, https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/samco-silicone-hoses-kits. plenty of other suppliers out there.
  3. Less flexible than a standard inverter setup, but well suited to high power appliances. By your own statement you don't need one.
  4. Did the data from John Deere mention the source of the “cavitation”? A similar sounding issue with (the much larger) Paxman engines was caused by running them at low loads. As a result the pistons didn’t get hot enough to fully expand into the liners, which allowed piston slap, which in turn caused ultrasonic vibrations in the coolant which eat though the liners! I wonder if the two are related? In any case you need to ensure the thermostat is functioning correctly and the engine is running at its design temperature. By the way the thermostat and cover on the ones I’ve encountered is rectangular and on the side of the head, a real pain to change. Check the cover on a flat surface and tighten the fastenings carefully as they are easily distorted. Have a look at the plumbing on the Barrus water cooled manifolds; they use the heat from the manifold to improve the warm up time. Might be worth a look if the JD isn’t already plumbed that way.
  5. Is @BlueStringPudding still in the same area; lots of experience with this sort of thing, and everything else about living aboard.
  6. This image from the web shows the mounting for the upper alternator, the lower alternator (underneath on the opposite side) uses a fabricated mounting arrangement, which if memory serves uses the pto cover bolts. A simple reversion to single alternator using the standard mount for this engine can be made using this single point mounting version of the common A127 alternator. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CANAL-BOAT-ALTERNATOR-HIGH-OUTPUT-75-AMP-A127-2-POINT-FIX-DUAL-TERMINATION/172013928453?epid=1649229235&hash=item280cd44005:g:alQAAOSw5VFWL5D~ Assuming of course that there is enough room in front of the exhaust manifold used by Thorneycroft.
  7. As at Nov 07 the Mitsubishi part numbers were 31A46-00071 for build code 61DM, superseded by 31A46-00073 for all build codes (61DM, 65DM & T61DM). These are for vetus engines, but I'm fairly sure that yours will be the same build code. They are mutually interchangeable parts. Sitting the alternator on top of the thermostat cover, and transferring all the load into the housing was not one of Thorneycrofts finest moments.
  8. Any replacement thermostat needs to sit in the centre of the casting with the sensing element facing the flow from the engine; probably from the base of the “T” , where the sensing element appears to be in the first image. Draw a line between “x” and “z” in your first image to give an indication of its position. In this configuration port “x” would be the bypass, and port “z” would be the flow to the cooler; the body may need rotating 180 deg should the flow differ from the original internal setup. A restrictor will be needed in the bypass to ensure the flow to the cooler (when the stat is open) is the flow of least resistance. So a little machining to provide a seat for the stat, and modification to the cover to hold the stat in place; possibly a perforated tube under the cover to hold the stat?
  9. Looks like a T50 based on the shape of the exhaust/heat exchanger assembly. https://www.thornycroftengines.com/out-of-production-engines
  10. The gearbox should be fairly straightforward. The current trolling option from Beta looks like this: Its going to be different to yours, but serves to identify the connections. The only two hoses you will need are the flow and return to and from the oil cooler, the layout of the oil cooler hoses is in the PRM 500 user manual. Anything else needs to be properly blanked off using original parts (plugs) from PRM. The spill return fitting in the above illustration is an additional hole in the top cover, yours may be elsewhere, but still needs blanking off. Electrically you will need to identify the wiring to the safety switch; which I believe is functionally the same as a neutral interlock which prevents the engine being started in gear. You will need access to the wiring diagram to confirm this. You can add the optional neutral interlock switch, or short the connections together if not; but only after checking the wiring diagram. The engine end is mechanically as simple as providing an anchor point for the outer of the throttle cable. Electrically I'm going to "bottle it" and say that a standard Beta wiring harness is the easy way to go; although removing a few solenoids and making good on the wiring doesn't sound too bad - does it?
  11. Most engines with “energise to stop” solenoids will start, but not stop. A reasonably reliable way to identify “energise to stop” is the presence of a stop button. Forgot to say that some panels (possibly early Barrus) have a permenant live to the stop button, so the position of the key switch may be irrelevant.
  12. Hi Ginny, I’m guessing you’ve been preoccupied with getting it to run again after turning off the fuel? There are a few other things that prevent (earlier) Barrus engines from stopping on the button; and best checked for whilst the engine is stopped. The least obvious can be the relay that lives on the wiring, part way between the engine and the panel. Hold it in your hand whilst pressing the button, you should be able to feel the “click” as it operates. It’s a common 1 inch cube type relay, take it with you if buying a new one as there are two ways in which the pins are numbered and connected internally.
  13. The shore supply connector fitted to the boat is generically refered to as an “appliance inlet”; the boat end of the shore supply cable will be fitted with a “trailing socket”. The shore side is a plug on the shore supply cable, and a socket on the supply bollard. We’re all used to taking the plug to the (fixed) socket, in this case we take the socket to the (fixed) plug; and then find new names for everything!
  14. MattyB, something like half a volt difference between the individual charge voltage of the two 12 volt batteries in your 24 volt setup is far too much for new batteries. There is clearly something out of specification with one or both, be that higher or lower internal resistance than the standard specification or something else; can someone with more specialist battery knowledge advise on how to approach the supplier with this issue? The use of a balancer is simply letting the battery supplier off the hook, and is generally viewed as somewhere between snake oil and a product looking for a market.
  15. Wow, just been to something called Ikea. They have these things called “shelves”, really exciting groud breaking idea; I wonder if it could be adapted for onboard use? or too radical?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.