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Eeyore

Member
  • Content count

    715
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About Eeyore

  • Birthday 22/05/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Great Haywood
  • Interests
    Canals, boats and boat electrics, Preserved Railways, model railways.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Senior work avoidance technician at Retired
  • Boat Name
    Done Doing
  • Boat Location
    Diglis

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    steve.beck1
  • ICQ
    0

Recent Profile Visitors

5,065 profile views
  1. Ignition barrel failing

    Hi Neil, any update on this?
  2. Ignition barrel failing

    Just what I did with my (very) early Lister Canalstar in my first boat, and what I would also recommend to Neil on Chalkhill Blue as and when the current installation becomes uneconomical to fix.
  3. Ignition barrel failing

    Did the cleaning also include the blade type fuses that are usually found alongside the relays? The start protection fuse can be 15amp (blue) or 25 amps (clear) depending on the age of the engine, it should be in the handbook. They are basically the same type of connection as the relays, so can be cleaned the same way. The wiring on Barrus engines is by no means the worst out there, but is one of the most complicated (for what it does). Mounting relays directly to the engine is generally unpopular with those who have to fix them; the vibration and opportunity for fuel, oil and antifreeze contamination makes them prime targets for early failure.
  4. Dry dock info

    I have found Canal Cruising Co at Stone to be ok. I’ve not done diy (too lazy) but many do. Many of the diy’ers stay onboard.
  5. Dry dock info

    Sorry I didn’t spot this earlier. As a fellow Great Haywood moorer I was was under the impression that your mooring fees included the occasional haul out on the slipway. I’m pretty sure you’re within the weight and length limits for the haulout trolly; just a case of packing to accommodate your underwater profile?
  6. I think Prestolite discontinued the adjustable regulators based on “user experience” (i.e people messing with them). I’m sure you can still buy the adjustable ones somewhere. Check the continuity of the small wires passing though the side of the regulator mounting; had one fail, insulation was ok but all the strands of copper had failed, odd as there is no strain on them. The other area to check is the brush gear if yours has the sealed brush gear compartment, (8MR series) the build up of dust from the brushes as they wear can cause some odd symptoms. Just clean it out with an artists brush if you have this type.
  7. WOC Number and Alternator Paralleling.

    Opps, I’d best get back to Specsaver’s.
  8. WOC Number and Alternator Paralleling.

    I was thinking of this one http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=32897&item=66021590M&product=Alternator as found on the later Isuzu marine engines as a direct replacement for the existing A127 type. AndrewIC mentioned having a A127, and being very close to the manifold when mounted in the "upper" position. I would take the small 50 amp (Nippon Denso?) along to my nearest repairers and ask if they have a 70 amp in a similar case and mounting type. They will have one, but I can't remember what I got last time I did this! As Tony says these are the largest you can reliably drive with a single V (wedge) belt, as a rough guide 70 amp where the belt goes around 3 pulleys and 90 amp where it goes around 2 pulleys. Its all about the arc of contact between belt and pulley; use a premium brand belt and keep it well aligned, correctly tensioned and oil free. I acknowledge that some of my earlier comments were not directly related to the OPs question. However this forum regularly receives queries regarding this as a solution to charging woes; just wanted other readers to see that this is a similar solution to a different problem. Yes, could have been worded better in my earlier posts
  9. Metric Bolt measurements

    The joy of standards is that there are so many to choose from......
  10. WOC Number and Alternator Paralleling.

    The one at the bottom of the picture certainly looks like a Lucas A127. The size of the thick red wire; both length and cross sectional area, needs to be determined to see if it is suitable for use with the larger alternator. The important bit - it's unlikely to make any significant difference to your battery charging, but will help if running the engine to help with large inverter loads. I would view it as a worthwhile upgrade if being carried out as a service replacement for a failed 70 amp unit. Steve (Eeyore)
  11. Metric Bolt measurements

    There is one obvious difference that affects owners of newer (usually Japanese) engines; M8 fittings often need a 12mm spanner. I mention this because at some time or another we have to change or re tension alternator belt drives. There are lots of other variations, but none that I can think of that a boater would regularly encounter.
  12. WOC Number and Alternator Paralleling.

    The 1305 (approx 1300cc, 4 cylinder) engine hasn't been sold by Beta for some time. Some of these earlier engines did use versions of the Lucas A127, so the similar (slightly larger) 90 amp unit could be an option. Do you have any pictures of the installation? Steve (Eeyore)
  13. Ignition barrel failing

    Wot he said You should check everything Tony has suggested whilst you are down there; its the same type of connection in the same environment.
  14. Ignition barrel failing

    These engines have a (slave) relay for the starter, usually mounted on the side of the engine. Try “waggling” the relay next time it fails to start. Sometimes it’s the relay, and sometimes it’s muck and corrosion on the pins and socket. I think it’s a 70 amp version of the typical 1 inch cube relays. The 70 amp type has two larger spade terminals. The lower rated ones come in two types; each has the same terminal numbers - but in different positions.
  15. Isuzu 35 runaway engine

    Hi Geoff I fear that the combination of “not been started for a long time”, and “water present” in the fuel could have lead to corrosion in the injection pumps. I have seen this on three different engines, but the principle is the same. You could try removing the electric shut down solenoid from the back of the engine; this may give sufficient access to push and pull directly on the rack. If the rack “frees off” it is likely to be a short term fix as the particles of corrosion are still in there. I really hope I’m wrong on this one, but it does sound familiar. Steve (Eeyore)
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