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Eeyore

Member
  • Content Count

    813
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About Eeyore

  • Birthday 05/22/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Great Haywood
  • Interests
    Canals, boats and boat electrics, Preserved Railways, model railways.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Senior work avoidance technician at Retired
  • Boat Name
    Done Doing
  • Boat Location
    Diglis

Recent Profile Visitors

5780 profile views
  1. Eeyore

    Portable Radio?

    This one works ok, you can use a micro usb charger to power it onboard. I use a power bank type battery via the usb when out and about, I Velcro the battery to the back of the radio. I found the power bank battery near the tills at TK Max. https://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/goodmans-dab-radio-black-3497461
  2. Go along to your local horticultural/agricultural machinery supplier and ask for their opinion on engines by Kubota (used by Beta) and Kioti/Daedong (used by Canaline). Then repeat the exercise at your local plant machinery supplier. The type of usage is different, but you should get a general idea of reliability and longevity; from which you can calculate a very crude figure for cost per hour of anticipated life expectancy. Or you could just buy a Beta 43 😎
  3. Here are some images of my Nanni N2.60. On the first image zoom in to see the repair to the front left mounting; similar to the OPs? Also note that the front mounting bracket, as built, is quite a long way back; making the installation front heavy. New heavier gauge brackets have been fabricated and fitted, and the engine mounted on stiff mounts. The gearbox is fitted with a centaflex coupling, and there is a separate thrust bearing on the shaft. Runs quite smoothly, but I'm monitoring the situation to see if it can or will break the new brackets. The second image shows the engine reinstalled on new bearers, the thrust bearing is just visible at the bottom. Note the spacer blocks beneath the mountings to ensure the engine does not sit too high on the mounts.
  4. Eeyore

    SmartGauge fuse.

    Not sure how that works, as the old unit was wired to a shunt.
  5. Very much what I was going to post. Coolant will take the path of least resistance, so even with the thermostat open it will still find it easier to circulate around a small loop, causing overheating, rather than to flow to the keel tank (or whatever cooling arrangement your engine has in place). A piece of suitable sized bar and two jubilee clips to join the cut ends of the hoses is the simplest solution. You could of course find blanking plugs to replace the hose connections on the engine, but then you would have to change them back if you fitted a new calorifier.
  6. Changing the prop will make no difference in this situation. As Tony says, the width and depth of the channel determines the water flow to the prop. You may reduce the engine revs by fitting a coarser prop, but will end up sitting in the mud at exactly the same speed as before. The 4mph limit on canals is rarely achievable; even planning a journey at 3mph is a struggle. Slow down, relax and enjoy being overtaken by pedestrians.
  7. The question is why do you think the 16 x 11 is wrong? Do you know that it’s not the size fitted from new? My BMC 1.5 fitted 44ft boat was quite troublesome with a 17 x 12, too fast at idle (which was already set low) and in and out of gear much too often when manoeuvring slowly.
  8. It might not be a "ball of corrosion"; but that all (including the ones on the hull mounted stud) needs disconnecting and cleaning up with a "scotch pad". The washers on the main terminals appear to be steel; but should be brass or stainless steel. Remove the RJxx plug and the red lead, then the circuit board can be removed by removing the two mounting screws. The contact pads and connectors on the circuit board are best cleaned using a contact cleaning spray; you can also clean the plug using the same spray. Might not cure the problem; but certainly won't do any harm.
  9. Just the usual questions. How old are the batteries? Have you “exercised” the battery switchs by turning on and off a few times to dislodge any build up of corrosion on the contacts (a temporary fix)? Have you checked the cable terminations for security and signs of discolouration caused by corrosion or overheating?
  10. I already pay for “free WiFi” that doesn’t work, and apparently am “entitled” to a parking space (according to an email sent out last year)
  11. This mornings post all seemed the same, lots of leaflets and targeted mailings promising to improve things after years of neglect. Then I realised that “Aquavista” weren’t looking for my vote, but were in fact the new name for BWML Marinas! As a customer I look forward to WiFi that works, somewhere to park my car and a whole raft of other improvements.
  12. The one mounted on the engine has metric threads, and I can’t see any reason to change it unless it’s broken. The one in the fuel line from the tank to engine will be whatever the boat builder installed of the day. It could be a Vetus branded item if supplied as part of the engine kit, but again why change it if it isn’t broke? A photo could be useful, especially a close up of the pipe fittings.
  13. Yes, the colour code will probably be different, so take a photo/do a drawing first. There are usually only 4 wires on the base, the unused one is in the centre and numbered 87a regardless of relay type.
  14. That was quick, I was having trouble pasting both images at the same time; so did that and then edited for the second one!!
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