Eeyore

A triple coil in the new calorifier, and one of those immersion boss adaptors in the existing calorifier. Feed the “solar” heat to the coil of the calorifier nearest the tap first. Add a valve to choose between this calorifier coil or both in series as per the “webasto” circuit. You could link the two valve handles to give a single action changeover for bath day, although experience may favour individual control.

So plumb the “engine” coils in series, with the flow going to the calorifier nearest the tap first. No need for a valve on this circuit as any excess “free” heat will automatically go to the second calorifier. You just need a single valve in the “webasto” coil plumbing to change between single calorifier nearest the tap and both in series on bath day. A single valve to achieve your stated aim. Pumped recirculation is fine in large installations like hotels where you need hot water fairly quickly at all taps, but seems a little complex for what you want?

Try this: remove the pump and related pipework. Take the returns from each coil in the lefthand calorifier to the inlets of the coils on the righthand calorifier. Use two 3 port valves to change from lefthand only to both. Link the valve handles (or use a duplex valve) to change from grubby day to bath day. edit to add the theory. The left hand calorifier will heat up until its contents are at the same temperature as the hottest coil. At this point the temperature drop across the coils of the left hand calorifiers is effectively zero; meaning that the available heat transfers to the second calorifier automaticaly once you select “both”. On grubby days the righthand calorifier is nothing more than a fat cold water feed pipe for the lefthand calorifier. Buy a triple coil calorifier and plumb it in as the lefthand calorifier, and replumb the existing calorifier as the righthand one. disclaimer: typed under the influence of “Birra Maretti”

Just like most bottled water then.

I wonder how the figures stack up for a diesel generator driving a heat pump Vs a diesel engined combined heat and power unit?

Its all about the box, or lack of it. All of the components for my “out of the box” solution are available delivered in or on a pallet, stillage, package, carton, blister pack, wrapping paper or bag. Box ticked ✔️

This “box” seems a bit difficult to get out of, although I have seen some damage to the packing tape 😇 How about a compact combined heat and power solution? Heat recovered from the coolant and exhaust gas, and surplus electrical power (not being used for battery charging )for an immersion element. No storage tank required if you configure it for indirect cooling. The canal water passing through the heat exchangers can be diverted though filters (and a UV lamp unit if you like) for the bath rather than being discharged over board. Choose filters that can be back flushed during your normal bunkering routine. Going back in my box now, its a bit bright out 😎.

Anything with a Yanmar part number is likely to be the one fitted in the head. The higher temperature ones used in the side of the black block usually have numbers in a different format. Happy to be corrected, but is this the higher temperature thermostat used in the single (standard) stat setup?

You might wish to start a new thread on this subject as your figures indicate a setup at the extreme end of the "normal" range.

I'm not sure that parts lists for the earlier engines were ever online; there are significant differences between your TNE engine and the current TNV range. Just take the old thermostat and cover to your local car parts shop, they'll usually find a match. The old one may have a bleed hole (you can drill your own if the replacement is the same in all other respects) which needs to be at the top (12 o'clock position) when refitting. You may as well speak to Barrus to determine which thermostat they now recommend for your particular engine. Be sure to be seated when you ask about prices 😉

The "black block" replaces the normal thermostat cover; so the lower temperature stat sits in the standard position in the head, accessed by removing the domed nuts either side of the filler cap. The higher temperature stat is under the cover on the side of the "black block"; behind the lifting bracket in the photo, where the hose to the skin tank connects. It sounds as though the higher temperature stat has failed, so slightly less to remove; side mounted stats may need a little grease to hold them in place whilst fitting the cover (although some may be held with a spring clip of some sort).

The model number and year aren't meant to be the same, it's just unfortunate that it looks that way. The 4TNE84-BME engine of 1995cc was, according to the handouts received during my course, used on the models 2000, 2001 and 2003. The model 2002 has hand written noted added during the course that suggest that latter ones used the larger 4TNE88-BME. The seven digit number after the model number suggests, along with the age of the boat, that this is the larger engine. The fuel filter is often a CAV type fitted by the installer. The air filter as listed is a Yanmar pt No 119808-12520, but may again be an installation specific part. The oil filter is however a constant between the two engine types; its been superseded a few times over the years, so Yanmar pt No 129150-35151, 129150-35152 or 129150-35153 should find a suitable alternative. The current listing is an entirely different No which I believe was essentially part of a housekeeping exercise to remove multiple numbers from the same filter fitted to many other engine types.

Model 2002 was produced from 1999 to 2003 inc and was based on the Yanmar 4TNE88-BME engine of 2190cc. There was also a model 2200 produced from 1998 to 2000 inc based on the same engine and available as either 45 or 50 hp. My Barrus training notes include most of the sales leaflets for those years, except of course the model 2002! It would be a reasonable guess that the 2002 was initially available as a 40 hp during the period that both were in production. Later production models saw the water-cooled exhaust restricted to the 50 hp models.

Make sure your Frome to London ticket is to “London International”. Its all about onward travel if the train from Frome is late. Apparently a “London International” ticket entitles you to travel on later Eurostar serviced if you are delayed. This from memory, as I don’t have the magazine article to hand.

@cutandpolished61 are you still at Great Haywood marina?

Something from this range should be ok, https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/samco-silicone-hoses-kits. plenty of other suppliers out there.

Less flexible than a standard inverter setup, but well suited to high power appliances. By your own statement you don't need one.

Did the data from John Deere mention the source of the “cavitation”? A similar sounding issue with (the much larger) Paxman engines was caused by running them at low loads. As a result the pistons didn’t get hot enough to fully expand into the liners, which allowed piston slap, which in turn caused ultrasonic vibrations in the coolant which eat though the liners! I wonder if the two are related? In any case you need to ensure the thermostat is functioning correctly and the engine is running at its design temperature. By the way the thermostat and cover on the ones I’ve encountered is rectangular and on the side of the head, a real pain to change. Check the cover on a flat surface and tighten the fastenings carefully as they are easily distorted. Have a look at the plumbing on the Barrus water cooled manifolds; they use the heat from the manifold to improve the warm up time. Might be worth a look if the JD isn’t already plumbed that way.

Is @BlueStringPudding still in the same area; lots of experience with this sort of thing, and everything else about living aboard.

This image from the web shows the mounting for the upper alternator, the lower alternator (underneath on the opposite side) uses a fabricated mounting arrangement, which if memory serves uses the pto cover bolts. A simple reversion to single alternator using the standard mount for this engine can be made using this single point mounting version of the common A127 alternator. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CANAL-BOAT-ALTERNATOR-HIGH-OUTPUT-75-AMP-A127-2-POINT-FIX-DUAL-TERMINATION/172013928453?epid=1649229235&hash=item280cd44005:g:alQAAOSw5VFWL5D~ Assuming of course that there is enough room in front of the exhaust manifold used by Thorneycroft.

As at Nov 07 the Mitsubishi part numbers were 31A46-00071 for build code 61DM, superseded by 31A46-00073 for all build codes (61DM, 65DM & T61DM). These are for vetus engines, but I'm fairly sure that yours will be the same build code. They are mutually interchangeable parts. Sitting the alternator on top of the thermostat cover, and transferring all the load into the housing was not one of Thorneycrofts finest moments.

Any replacement thermostat needs to sit in the centre of the casting with the sensing element facing the flow from the engine; probably from the base of the “T” , where the sensing element appears to be in the first image. Draw a line between “x” and “z” in your first image to give an indication of its position. In this configuration port “x” would be the bypass, and port “z” would be the flow to the cooler; the body may need rotating 180 deg should the flow differ from the original internal setup. A restrictor will be needed in the bypass to ensure the flow to the cooler (when the stat is open) is the flow of least resistance. So a little machining to provide a seat for the stat, and modification to the cover to hold the stat in place; possibly a perforated tube under the cover to hold the stat?

Looks like a T50 based on the shape of the exhaust/heat exchanger assembly. https://www.thornycroftengines.com/out-of-production-engines

The gearbox should be fairly straightforward. The current trolling option from Beta looks like this: Its going to be different to yours, but serves to identify the connections. The only two hoses you will need are the flow and return to and from the oil cooler, the layout of the oil cooler hoses is in the PRM 500 user manual. Anything else needs to be properly blanked off using original parts (plugs) from PRM. The spill return fitting in the above illustration is an additional hole in the top cover, yours may be elsewhere, but still needs blanking off. Electrically you will need to identify the wiring to the safety switch; which I believe is functionally the same as a neutral interlock which prevents the engine being started in gear. You will need access to the wiring diagram to confirm this. You can add the optional neutral interlock switch, or short the connections together if not; but only after checking the wiring diagram. The engine end is mechanically as simple as providing an anchor point for the outer of the throttle cable. Electrically I'm going to "bottle it" and say that a standard Beta wiring harness is the easy way to go; although removing a few solenoids and making good on the wiring doesn't sound too bad - does it?

Most engines with “energise to stop” solenoids will start, but not stop. A reasonably reliable way to identify “energise to stop” is the presence of a stop button. Forgot to say that some panels (possibly early Barrus) have a permenant live to the stop button, so the position of the key switch may be irrelevant.