Eeyore

The expected charging voltage is more in the region of 29 to 29.2 volts. Modern “12 volt” batteries have a higher calcium content requiring higher charge voltage of about 14.5 to 14.6 volts, so yours will be twice that. There is a trend is towards higher calcium content in vehicle batteries, so charging voltages up to 14.8 volts can be found on nominally “12 volt” systems. I still think your “professional” installer has some difficult questions to answer. The battery (or batterybank) is only part of the battery system, which by default must include a method of recharging. To demonstrate that the new battery functions as intended would include both discharging it into a load ( fridge, lights etc.) and that it charges correctly from the available charging sources. With regard to the current situation; it’s all about the economics, a day off to go and sort it now or an extra day or two at work to buy another set.

I’m sure that someone will be along in a minute to tell you that you’ve just trashed £600 worth of batteries by attaching them to a charging system with known issues ☹️. We’ll need all the basic stuff to have a chance of helping you : engine type, number of alternators, voltage of starting system, voltage of dimestic system (they can be different) and a few pictures of the instalation would help. Pictures may be an issue though for new members; I think there are some restrictions. In your position I might be asking the “professional” a question or two.

The durite relay also appears to have two large cables joined together on one terminal; and niether has any small wires connected to the coil connections. So 2 out of three do nothing at all; you will need to follow the wiring from the red fuse holder to see if its a member of the same club. I see Chewbacka has posted similarly on the duplicate thread.

There are two genuine oil filters for this engine; Kubota supply their own brand filters. If you quote the engine number ( stamped somewhere on the engine block) a Kubota dealer will supply the correct filter.

Midland Chandler also sold a Fram hydraulic oil filter as the oil filter for this engine, completly wrong part. The really important thing is that the 03 series Kubota engines take a 3/4” -16 UN threaded filter. The M20 x 1.5 threaded filters sold in some places as suitable for this engine are also completly wrong; and could cost you your engine if the minimal contact between the mismatched threads fails. I recall that the early fuel filters were metric thread, and the latter ones were imperial thread! The M20 x 1.5 threaded filters are of course standard fitting on the smaller 05 series engines used for the Beta 28/30/35/38.

Check the settings on the phone. “settings” - “messages” tap “text message fowarding” to see the available devices, and switch on the ones you wish to foward to. If the iMac is not shown you could check that it is using the same Apple id as the other devices. Apparently having more than one Apple id is quite common. BMPs post is I think about macbook/imac settings. Useful topic, as it has now resolved a similar issue with my devices?

I was thinking more broken/loose wiring, but accept that it could simply be a failed alternator.

The term “exciter charging light” may be misleading for a Hitachi alternator, which commonly have separate connections for excitation and warning light. A picture showing the wiring would be useful.

Toilet - Extraterrestrial at work

Did you realise that you are responding to a 6 year old thread?

Not forgetting to empty the shower tray by some other means before you start! ? Cheap disposable nappies are handy for coping with the inevitable small spillages whilst doing this job.

Ditto; and thats between Apple devices. It probably don't help that one of them is an elderly iPad running the older 32 bit iOS.

“Want” was the wrong word to use in my first post. The eleven way connector is of course a like for like replacement. Keeping things “standard” makes future fault finding a bit more straghtfoward; if you really don’t like the multiways you can simpley cut them off and reconnect with inline crimps.

This one? http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/613/multi-connectors-6-3mm The one shown is only 6 way, the 11 way is the one you want.

Just thinking that 10 mm pipe is a bit on the small side if there is also a boiler to concider. Maybe the pipe from the regulator is larger?, and the cooker is “tee’d” off in 10 mm?

Are you doing/checking all the usual things to mitigate the issue given the engines reputation? The obvious ones being to check that the engine reaches full working temperature; is the thermostat the right one and working correctly. The other is to avoid unnecessary idling and to charge batteries with engine at about 1200rpm. Most of the smoke is likely to be oil carry over in the exhaust "burning" off as the exhaust gas temperature rises with engine load after idling.

There are a few in the HC Cargo catalogue similar to this. 111036 @ 45 amps, 113471 @ 65 amps, both listed as used on Fiat and Lancia. The 113533 @ 65 amps is shown as being used on Fiat, Lancia and Lombardini. Couldn't see an 80 amp, although obviously available elsewhere. All three have Iskra cross ref numbers. No, leave any "extra" wires disconnected and tied back out of harms way. Worst case is that the tacho won't work, and you can live without that.

Its an HC Cargo 111166. Go to https://hc-cargo.co.uk/ and put the number in the search box. Yours has been modified, probably one of the extra wires will be the tacho connection, whilst the other is an external regulator/controller of some sort? Most alternator repairers will recognise the HC Cargo number, and should be able to supply a unit with the tacho wire. They may not give you any warranty if you issist on the the external controller wire being fitted. Most modern internal regulators will provide a sufficiently high voltage without the external controller being fitted. Not sure that its the original fittment, unless there is another reason for the "homemade" tensioner bracket.

So here is a lightweight read about tyre sizes https://www.evanscycles.com/coffeestop/advice/beginners-guide-to-wheel-sizing-and-measurements And here is something a little more comperhensive http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html Very confussing, but nessesary imformation if you want the correct fit. Getting tyres on and off is often a matter of technique, and generaly doesn’t require levers for either operation; but technique equals lots of practice. You should see that the centre of the rim (where the spokes live) is a smaller diameter than the part the tyre lives on. If you pinch the sides if the tyre together with your fingers you will find that the tyre now sits down onto the smaller diameter. Meanwhile on the diagonally opposite side of the wheel you will find that the tyre is sitting higher or even clear of the rim. Place both hands opposite the valve, pinch the tyre whilst moving both hands in opposite directions ( one clockwise, one anti clockwise) towards the valve. A the very least you should now have enough gap between the tyre and rim (at the valve) to ease the tyre off with your finger; a thin tyre lever will save wear on your finger, but shouldn’t require any effort. This works equaly well for refitting; just a few things to add. Always inflate the tube just enough to gain its proper shape, often just one or two strokes of the pump. This makes it far easier to handle, and will keep it clear of levers if you really need to use them. Check that the tyre is sitting equaly on the rim before fully inflating it; it can sometimes look as though the tyre is “thicker” on one part of the rim. Just push it about with your thumbs untill it looks about right. Its a good party trick, and useful for helping others without the need to have a set of levers in your pocket.

Often caused by the buzzer “seeing” the difference in voltage between the two alternators? You could “design” a work around by having a dedicated buzzer on one alternator. And back on topic - yes everything that has already been said about those multiway connectors and all the other connection is where you need to check first. PLUS, check the 40 amp fuse and holder for corrosion, just taking it out and putting it back again can get you out of trouble. Then if it still plays up you can go back to the ignition switch.

The HRW and LPWS engines can, as far as I know, use the same antifreeze. The corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze dictate how often it should be changed, I think the longest interval is about 5 years? Maybe change antifreeze on both at the same time and concider the plumbing mod then.

The Mitsubishi belts are as far as I can tell the equivalent to the AVX 13 x 1100 that Matty mentioned. It could be that a smaller alternator pulley has been fitted. With that much slack I would try an AVX 13 x 1075 to start with, you may find that an even shorter belt can be fitted at subsequent changes.

So you would change the rings without inspecting the bore or checking the fit of the rings in the bore. It my book that sounds like you know less than me; but you say I know nothing, so.........yeah that sounds about right?

Isolation valves at the engine are of course concidered as “best practice”, with some manufacturers fitting them as standard from new. Absolutely no issue with your appoach, in fact I may well favour it had I not been familiar with the OPs layout. A single (valve) lever to move in order to select between two conventionally plumbed engines isn’t that complicated is it?

I’m assuming its still the one I had built for a previous owner; this is a mod they would have had if they kept the boat. The flow and return to the calorifier would have been through a duplex “L” ported changeover valve. This would allow a choice of flow from either main engine or generator to the calorifier coil. There would be a small amout of transfer from one cooling circuit to the other when the valve is operated, but would not affect the levels. A dual coil calorifier would of course make things a lot simpler.