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Everything posted by Eeyore

  1. Just fit a standard calorifier connection kit to the engine. If its still an LPWS2 the plumbing will be changed to have the flow to the skin tank from the top of the thermostat housing, and the flow to the calirifier from the top of the water cooled exhaust manifold. There is a small pipe fitted from below the thermostat to the water cooled exhaust manifold. This is how Lister plumb their marine engines, and can be applied to other engines as well. The return side simply has the return from the calorifier connected to the return from the skin tank.
  2. Standard wiring for HMI Isuzu (and Engines Plus/Canaline) seems to be to use black/yellow for one charge indicator lamp and brown/yellow for the other. So it looks like the brown/yellow wire has fallen off the ind terminal in the second picture. The thick black wire is battery negative to the casing of the alternator; on some engines they fitted insulated return alternators, and the black wire would be attached to the B- terminal.
  3. Maybe, but the wire only seems to be part of the makeshift drip-cup arrangement.
  4. Today through the small round window you can see a flow indicator; it doesn't work any more because its pipes have been cut/disconnected.
  5. Yes, but most of the wear will be from the gland being too tight. A mooring post at the local boatyard is made from a worn shaft, it has an "hourglass" shape and is worn from 1.5" down to about 0.75"; and was fun to remove from the boat.
  6. Most mounts (with two holes for mounting to the bearer) have one one plain and one slotted hole. With any luck the slotted holes will all be at the same end. Slacken the nuts slightly and gentley knock the slotted end in the direction required. You will only get a small amount of ( available) movement, but it sounds as though thats all you require. But maybe you’re talking about a “vintage” engine bolted down to timber bearers?
  7. Dingle is a long way (for most people) to go to inspect before purchase. ?
  8. The early Barrus engines had this “slave” relay in the wiring about a foot or more from the multiway plug/socket on the engine. It drives the shutdown solenoid. Make sure that the new one is the same type as there are two physically indentical types with the terminal numbers in different positions.
  9. There will be genuine worldwide interest in how to change piston rings without removing the pistons. I would suggest patenting the process immediately so that this lot on here don’t get their hands on it; or, not meaning to be rude, you could just say that you are bored with this conversation and walk away.
  10. Your problem is not with Baldwin, assuming its anything to do with the filter, but with Midland Chandler for supplying the wrong filter. This is not the first time they have supplied the wrong filter for that model of engine; the Fram filter they used to supply was in fact a hydraulic system filter with no bypass fitted. The Baldwin site shows the filter for the Kubota V1903 as a B7099, very different to the one MC supplied. Just wondering, why would you rev the engine when everything is telling you that you have no oil pressure?
  11. This took about 2 minutes to research. Here https://www.diamonddiesels.co.uk/product/k4d-used-block/ is a link to a picture of a K4D block Notice the characters "K4D" and "1.305L" cast into the flat part of the casting below the side access port for the fuel injection pump. Here https://www.diamonddiesels.co.uk/product/k4e-used-block/ is a link to a picture of a K4E block Notice the characters "K4E" and "1.415L" cast into the flat part of the casting below the side access port for the fuel injection pump. Here http://www.mascus.com/images/productimages/5a2ad639/9d2bd3b3.jpg is a link to a picture of a S4L block Notice the characters "S4L" cast into the small flat area just below and to the left of the side access port for the fuel injection pump. The capacity is not marked on the block as it was used for two models of engine. S4L 1.5L and S4L2 1.758L using different stroke cranks. Most people would look at this and be inclined to think that Mitsubishi cast their blocks for specific model, well most people. If thats not enough the issue of appearance might be enough to convince someone that they are not the same. And the cherry on the icing - the K4D is a 73mm bore block designed to take a 78mm stoke crank; and the S4L is a 78mm bore block designed to take a 92mm stroke crank. I'm probably still wrong in the eyes of the OP, but hey I'm only using actual photos and genuine Mitsubishi documentation; and that hasn't been good enough so far.
  12. I have the Mitsubishi parts listing for SL engine at home, does anyone know the part mumber for the KD block for comparison. The usual thing is for later blocks to be suitable for rebuilding earlier engines; but not the other way around. A common example would be the evolution of the block on the Lister LP/Alpha engines. Knowing that some KD parts are a possibility when repairing an SL is/could be very useful.
  13. Thanks for that WotEver. I only queried it because the OP stated quite clearly in his first post that it was a K4D ENGINE. I shall have a look down the side of my S4L2 tomorrow to see what identifying marks I can find. I’ve been called a few things over the years, factually inaccurate didn’t come up to often; but who knows?
  14. I'm wondering how in 2016 the previous owner managed to purchase a "new" Vetus engine based on the Mitsubishi K4D? The K4D was replaced by the S4L & S4L2 engines more than 10 years ago, and Vetus have used the new engines since then. I was aware of some parts commonality, but didn't think it extended to the majority of internal parts and gaskets! Must have been a refurb unit?
  15. So it’s just the oil between the clutch plates causing a little drag, will be more obvious when cold; and may not happen at all when warm. All pretty normal for that box and others of its type.
  16. Jolly good idea. Looks like the early trials with Canaltime came in useful after all; how many times did we hear “well I wasn’t driving” after being hit by one ;-)
  17. Appendix K says something along the lines of carefully measuring vents to determine the actual area. Take the dome off and measure the area of the support for the dome ( basically four rectangles and a circle ); subtract this figure from the area calculated from the inside diameter of the vent to give the actual area available. You can then use this figure to calculate the optimum position/height for the dome. Examiners apply “derating” percentages for grills and fans; but these percentages do not appear in the guidance (well not in anything i’ve found so far), perhaps i’m not looking hard enough.
  18. Have a look at http://destinynarrowboat.weebly.com/vetus.html
  19. Just what I did with my (very) early Lister Canalstar in my first boat, and what I would also recommend to Neil on Chalkhill Blue as and when the current installation becomes uneconomical to fix.
  20. Did the cleaning also include the blade type fuses that are usually found alongside the relays? The start protection fuse can be 15amp (blue) or 25 amps (clear) depending on the age of the engine, it should be in the handbook. They are basically the same type of connection as the relays, so can be cleaned the same way. The wiring on Barrus engines is by no means the worst out there, but is one of the most complicated (for what it does). Mounting relays directly to the engine is generally unpopular with those who have to fix them; the vibration and opportunity for fuel, oil and antifreeze contamination makes them prime targets for early failure.
  21. I have found Canal Cruising Co at Stone to be ok. I’ve not done diy (too lazy) but many do. Many of the diy’ers stay onboard.
  22. Sorry I didn’t spot this earlier. As a fellow Great Haywood moorer I was was under the impression that your mooring fees included the occasional haul out on the slipway. I’m pretty sure you’re within the weight and length limits for the haulout trolly; just a case of packing to accommodate your underwater profile?
  23. I think Prestolite discontinued the adjustable regulators based on “user experience” (i.e people messing with them). I’m sure you can still buy the adjustable ones somewhere. Check the continuity of the small wires passing though the side of the regulator mounting; had one fail, insulation was ok but all the strands of copper had failed, odd as there is no strain on them. The other area to check is the brush gear if yours has the sealed brush gear compartment, (8MR series) the build up of dust from the brushes as they wear can cause some odd symptoms. Just clean it out with an artists brush if you have this type.
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