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Eeyore

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Everything posted by Eeyore

  1. There will be genuine worldwide interest in how to change piston rings without removing the pistons. I would suggest patenting the process immediately so that this lot on here don’t get their hands on it; or, not meaning to be rude, you could just say that you are bored with this conversation and walk away.
  2. Your problem is not with Baldwin, assuming its anything to do with the filter, but with Midland Chandler for supplying the wrong filter. This is not the first time they have supplied the wrong filter for that model of engine; the Fram filter they used to supply was in fact a hydraulic system filter with no bypass fitted. The Baldwin site shows the filter for the Kubota V1903 as a B7099, very different to the one MC supplied. Just wondering, why would you rev the engine when everything is telling you that you have no oil pressure?
  3. This took about 2 minutes to research. Here https://www.diamonddiesels.co.uk/product/k4d-used-block/ is a link to a picture of a K4D block Notice the characters "K4D" and "1.305L" cast into the flat part of the casting below the side access port for the fuel injection pump. Here https://www.diamonddiesels.co.uk/product/k4e-used-block/ is a link to a picture of a K4E block Notice the characters "K4E" and "1.415L" cast into the flat part of the casting below the side access port for the fuel injection pump. Here http://www.mascus.com/images/productimages/5a2ad639/9d2bd3b3.jpg is a link to a picture of a S4L block Notice the characters "S4L" cast into the small flat area just below and to the left of the side access port for the fuel injection pump. The capacity is not marked on the block as it was used for two models of engine. S4L 1.5L and S4L2 1.758L using different stroke cranks. Most people would look at this and be inclined to think that Mitsubishi cast their blocks for specific model, well most people. If thats not enough the issue of appearance might be enough to convince someone that they are not the same. And the cherry on the icing - the K4D is a 73mm bore block designed to take a 78mm stoke crank; and the S4L is a 78mm bore block designed to take a 92mm stroke crank. I'm probably still wrong in the eyes of the OP, but hey I'm only using actual photos and genuine Mitsubishi documentation; and that hasn't been good enough so far.
  4. I have the Mitsubishi parts listing for SL engine at home, does anyone know the part mumber for the KD block for comparison. The usual thing is for later blocks to be suitable for rebuilding earlier engines; but not the other way around. A common example would be the evolution of the block on the Lister LP/Alpha engines. Knowing that some KD parts are a possibility when repairing an SL is/could be very useful.
  5. Thanks for that WotEver. I only queried it because the OP stated quite clearly in his first post that it was a K4D ENGINE. I shall have a look down the side of my S4L2 tomorrow to see what identifying marks I can find. I’ve been called a few things over the years, factually inaccurate didn’t come up to often; but who knows?
  6. I'm wondering how in 2016 the previous owner managed to purchase a "new" Vetus engine based on the Mitsubishi K4D? The K4D was replaced by the S4L & S4L2 engines more than 10 years ago, and Vetus have used the new engines since then. I was aware of some parts commonality, but didn't think it extended to the majority of internal parts and gaskets! Must have been a refurb unit?
  7. So it’s just the oil between the clutch plates causing a little drag, will be more obvious when cold; and may not happen at all when warm. All pretty normal for that box and others of its type.
  8. Jolly good idea. Looks like the early trials with Canaltime came in useful after all; how many times did we hear “well I wasn’t driving” after being hit by one ;-)
  9. Appendix K says something along the lines of carefully measuring vents to determine the actual area. Take the dome off and measure the area of the support for the dome ( basically four rectangles and a circle ); subtract this figure from the area calculated from the inside diameter of the vent to give the actual area available. You can then use this figure to calculate the optimum position/height for the dome. Examiners apply “derating” percentages for grills and fans; but these percentages do not appear in the guidance (well not in anything i’ve found so far), perhaps i’m not looking hard enough.
  10. Have a look at http://destinynarrowboat.weebly.com/vetus.html
  11. Just what I did with my (very) early Lister Canalstar in my first boat, and what I would also recommend to Neil on Chalkhill Blue as and when the current installation becomes uneconomical to fix.
  12. Did the cleaning also include the blade type fuses that are usually found alongside the relays? The start protection fuse can be 15amp (blue) or 25 amps (clear) depending on the age of the engine, it should be in the handbook. They are basically the same type of connection as the relays, so can be cleaned the same way. The wiring on Barrus engines is by no means the worst out there, but is one of the most complicated (for what it does). Mounting relays directly to the engine is generally unpopular with those who have to fix them; the vibration and opportunity for fuel, oil and antifreeze contamination makes them prime targets for early failure.
  13. I have found Canal Cruising Co at Stone to be ok. I’ve not done diy (too lazy) but many do. Many of the diy’ers stay onboard.
  14. Sorry I didn’t spot this earlier. As a fellow Great Haywood moorer I was was under the impression that your mooring fees included the occasional haul out on the slipway. I’m pretty sure you’re within the weight and length limits for the haulout trolly; just a case of packing to accommodate your underwater profile?
  15. I think Prestolite discontinued the adjustable regulators based on “user experience” (i.e people messing with them). I’m sure you can still buy the adjustable ones somewhere. Check the continuity of the small wires passing though the side of the regulator mounting; had one fail, insulation was ok but all the strands of copper had failed, odd as there is no strain on them. The other area to check is the brush gear if yours has the sealed brush gear compartment, (8MR series) the build up of dust from the brushes as they wear can cause some odd symptoms. Just clean it out with an artists brush if you have this type.
  16. I was thinking of this one http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=32897&item=66021590M&product=Alternator as found on the later Isuzu marine engines as a direct replacement for the existing A127 type. AndrewIC mentioned having a A127, and being very close to the manifold when mounted in the "upper" position. I would take the small 50 amp (Nippon Denso?) along to my nearest repairers and ask if they have a 70 amp in a similar case and mounting type. They will have one, but I can't remember what I got last time I did this! As Tony says these are the largest you can reliably drive with a single V (wedge) belt, as a rough guide 70 amp where the belt goes around 3 pulleys and 90 amp where it goes around 2 pulleys. Its all about the arc of contact between belt and pulley; use a premium brand belt and keep it well aligned, correctly tensioned and oil free. I acknowledge that some of my earlier comments were not directly related to the OPs question. However this forum regularly receives queries regarding this as a solution to charging woes; just wanted other readers to see that this is a similar solution to a different problem. Yes, could have been worded better in my earlier posts
  17. The joy of standards is that there are so many to choose from......
  18. The one at the bottom of the picture certainly looks like a Lucas A127. The size of the thick red wire; both length and cross sectional area, needs to be determined to see if it is suitable for use with the larger alternator. The important bit - it's unlikely to make any significant difference to your battery charging, but will help if running the engine to help with large inverter loads. I would view it as a worthwhile upgrade if being carried out as a service replacement for a failed 70 amp unit. Steve (Eeyore)
  19. There is one obvious difference that affects owners of newer (usually Japanese) engines; M8 fittings often need a 12mm spanner. I mention this because at some time or another we have to change or re tension alternator belt drives. There are lots of other variations, but none that I can think of that a boater would regularly encounter.
  20. The 1305 (approx 1300cc, 4 cylinder) engine hasn't been sold by Beta for some time. Some of these earlier engines did use versions of the Lucas A127, so the similar (slightly larger) 90 amp unit could be an option. Do you have any pictures of the installation? Steve (Eeyore)
  21. Wot he said You should check everything Tony has suggested whilst you are down there; its the same type of connection in the same environment.
  22. These engines have a (slave) relay for the starter, usually mounted on the side of the engine. Try “waggling” the relay next time it fails to start. Sometimes it’s the relay, and sometimes it’s muck and corrosion on the pins and socket. I think it’s a 70 amp version of the typical 1 inch cube relays. The 70 amp type has two larger spade terminals. The lower rated ones come in two types; each has the same terminal numbers - but in different positions.
  23. Hi Geoff I fear that the combination of “not been started for a long time”, and “water present” in the fuel could have lead to corrosion in the injection pumps. I have seen this on three different engines, but the principle is the same. You could try removing the electric shut down solenoid from the back of the engine; this may give sufficient access to push and pull directly on the rack. If the rack “frees off” it is likely to be a short term fix as the particles of corrosion are still in there. I really hope I’m wrong on this one, but it does sound familiar. Steve (Eeyore)
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