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Eeyore

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Everything posted by Eeyore

  1. All a bit academic really; where would I find a qualified CORGI registered installer?
  2. This might be of interest https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/pdf_archive/pdfs/product_lit/emea_brochures/LT15108-GB.pdf
  3. What he said! 12 volt Anderson plugs are the yellow ones.
  4. A suitable size open ended spanner would seem to be best. The hexagon on the solenoid is quite shallow, and ring spanners have a "lead" on them which means they will not grip the full width of the hexagon. Remove any excess sealant from around the old solenoid to ensure the open ended spanner gets a grip across the full width of the hexagon. Engine Plus will advise on suitable sealant for the new solenoid. Steve (Eeyore)
  5. Have just checked my set of Halfords batteries (as per my last post on your previous topic). They seem to be behaving normally. I disconnected the charger and loaded them using every 12 volt appliance on the boat for some time with no unexpected results. They recovered quickly to better than 12.8 volts despite the freezing temperature. I have previously noted my alternator running close to 14.7 volts, which having followed your experience no longer concerns me. Maybe there is hope for the next set. Steve (Eeyore)
  6. I still recieve notification emails for topics I'm following regardless of device in use. It might be something I opted for in "settings", but cann't remember doing it.
  7. Following the departure of the long term incumbent about 4 years ago the cafe was taken on by a sandwich shop owner from Beeston. Their first action was to redecorate and remove approx 50% of the indoor seating, shortly followed by the arrival of a sign proclaiming it as a "bistro". Service in those early days ranged from totally ignoring customers through to "sorry, we've run out of food". Fortunately the service did improve somewhat, but never to a level where they could deal with the throughput to make the place profitable; often stopping breakfast orders 30 minutes early and turning people away. We often went in for Sunday lunch under the previous ownership, no booking, and rarely waited more than what seemed a few minutes; now its bookings only and far from speedy. Hopefully someone with appropriate catering experience can be found to revitalise it, but the price needs to be right for that to happen.
  8. I have a pair of these batteries; they were behaving ok last time I was at the boat. I'll check them in a week or so.They are on float charge at the moment; I'll take the charger off and monitor the situation. Bit worrying as there have been several postings on this subject recently. Realy didn't want to concider the possibility of changing batteries at this time of year - ho hum
  9. You don't really need to do anything about the over filling as the excess water will eventually gas off. One problem, as you have found, is that the capacity will have dropped as a result of dilution of the electrolye; this will eventually sort its self out. Do not remove the excess as this will permanently weaken the electrolyte. Another possible problem is that you may get some spillage as a result of the electrolyte warming up and expanding during charging; just check regularly and wipe up any spillage straight away. You will need to check the charging system as already advised.
  10. A quick note of caution. A piece of wood, typically a hammer shaft, is less likely to cause damage when used to lever the alternator. There are a lot of aluminium alloy casting used, not just the alternator, often the front covers of the engine are alloy. Glad you have it sorted.
  11. Edited; senior moment. Ah the joys of communicating with non engineers
  12. Hmm, try this: You are riding a bike, and you pedal at the same rpm in the same gear regardless of terrain. I'm sure that will notice that you have to put more effort in to maintain the same rpm when going up hill. The hill represents a heavy demand, the flat a low demand and you are the engine. At some point the hill will become so steep that you are unable to turn the pedals at all; you will then fall off/dismount because the drive is a fixed mechanical arrangement; but the belt relying on friction could slip. edited to say: Ahh I see that Tony has beat me to it with a technical explanation
  13. Which means in the OPs case that the belt has to transmit approx 3 hp to the domestic alternator pulley via a contact area of no more than 2 square inches. This assumes from earlier posts that its a Barrus Shire with one belt passing around four pulleys. Belt life on these engines varies considerably from annual, on a just in case basis; to almost as regular as oil changes. It seems likely that belt life on this particular installation is closely related to how deeply you allow the batteries to discharge between engine starts; and in this case dead batteries appear to the alternator as very discharged.
  14. Sorry, going through a "rebellious pensioner" phase
  15. At the risk of sounding sensible I have been left with a spare 4" mushroom following the removal of the upright Alde boiler that was using it as an exhaust terminal. Its close to the rear doors so the intention is to pipe it to a floor level grill, and to blank off the vents in the rear doors. Should provide draught free ventilation compared to the existing door vents that are about 3 foot off the floor.
  16. From their home screen you need to go to the second box down "find your filter by part number fast!!!". Click "select manufacturer" and select "Daedong" from the drop down list. Daedong are the parent company of Kioti. Kioti brand tractors use Daedong engines; but the Kioti name is used in the UK for the engines as well.
  17. The current part number for the two wire version is: Hitachi MV1-77 897209-1141 They are available from Engines Plus through their dealer network, which supports the Isuzu marine product. I was given a price of about £208 by the local dealership. So they are available, with a price that seems about right for something "almost unique". It seems that these solenoids just screw in without need for setting (unlike the similar looking Mitsubishi item). Sealing compound/mastic seems to be the order of the day to stop the oil leaking past the threads. I've had another look at the 3 wire solenoid install, and have arrived at a "novel" solution. The pull in coil is recommended to be energised for no longer than 3 seconds by most manufacturers; which is why they recommend timer modules. However if you leave the existing wiring in place the feed to the white pull in lead is controlled by the "stop" button, just press for a second or two to set the solenoid in the run position. You just need to run an additional wire from the same terminal on the key switch to the red hold in wire on the solenoid (you will need one female lucar/spade connector which will fit in the unused position in the existing white nylon connector block). Change the label on the stop button if you like, or leave it as a "security" feature.
  18. Don't order anything just yet; I'll be having a conversation with someone on Monday re the original part.
  19. Sorry for the delay, printer/scanner failed.Just collected a new one. Thanks for the pictures; I'll wonder down to the local hire base for a better look at some Isuzu engines, just to be sure of what I'm talking about😎. It's just down the road.
  20. Good link, just ordered four 😁
  21. That's an impressive failure, the average one is just full of wet green corrosion. The harness plug on mine is a multiway based on bullet connectors, and a good tight fit. I think I might go down the bullet connector route if I were in your position. You will need to be careful to fit insulated female bullets to the normally live ends. For instance the feed from the engine to the panel will have the female on the engine side, whereas the feed to the glow plugs will have the female on the harness side.
  22. The fuse is often located in the wiring close to the starter motor, it's a 40 amp blade type. Some have a rubber cover. The fuse can suffer from corrosion which will give the same symptoms, try cleaning it, or just working it in and out of the holder.40 amp fuses aren't that common, but you may get a start or two from a 30 or 35 until you can get hold of the right one. It's the glow plugs that need the higher rating.
  23. Usually a fuse in the supply to the panel.Which engine do you have?
  24. I've just remembered that the stop button has a second set of terminals. The wires are currently on the normally open (NO) set of contacts. The quick and easy (no tools or cutting) way to convert the wiring is to move the wires to the normally closed (NC) set of contacts. The wire to the solenoid will now be live with the key switch in the on position; and you retain the functionality of the stop button which breaks the supply when pressed. The engine would of course still stop by turning the key switch to off.I"ll scan you a copy of the wiring diagram, with the timer, when I'm back from the boat on Fri. You could have a look at the Barrus Shire download page where you will find handbooks with "energise to run" 3 wire wiring diagrams. The later Barrus engines have the third wire connected to the starter solenoid.
  25. First you will need a copy of the Isuzu maintenance/overhaul manual to show the the correct mechanical setting for the energise to run solenoid. Second you will need to modify the wiring to suit the 3 wire solenoid. The 3 wires are: Battery negative. "Pull in" the heavy current coil needed to initially move the operating rod/plunger. Should be connected to a timer activated by the starter circuit; but is commonly attached to the starter motor side of the starter solenoid (which can cause it to overheat/burn out in the event of excessive cranking). "Hold in" the low current coil needed to hold the operating rod/plunger in the run position. Connected to an ignition switched supply. The changeover from "pull in' to "hold in" is by an internal switch, made when the operating rod/plunger reaches the end of its travel. It is very important that the mechanical setting allows the operating rod/plunger to reach the end of its travel, otherwise the engine will start, but stop as soon as the key is released. You should be able to change the connections on the key switch/panel to reuse the existing solenoid wiring as the battery neg and "hold in" circuit; a new wire from the starter will be needed for the "pull in" connection. The stop button would be redundant; the engine would stop when the key is turned to the off position. As mentioned earlier the engine would stop in the event of a flat battery. Hope this helps Steve (Eeyore) PS I suppose you've checked for voltage at the existing solenoid connector when the button is pressed, sometimes the feed from the key switch to the stop button fails due to dirty contacts in the key switch.
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