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Everything posted by Eeyore

  1. I was thinking of this one http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=32897&item=66021590M&product=Alternator as found on the later Isuzu marine engines as a direct replacement for the existing A127 type. AndrewIC mentioned having a A127, and being very close to the manifold when mounted in the "upper" position. I would take the small 50 amp (Nippon Denso?) along to my nearest repairers and ask if they have a 70 amp in a similar case and mounting type. They will have one, but I can't remember what I got last time I did this! As Tony says these are the largest you can reliably drive with a single V (wedge) belt, as a rough guide 70 amp where the belt goes around 3 pulleys and 90 amp where it goes around 2 pulleys. Its all about the arc of contact between belt and pulley; use a premium brand belt and keep it well aligned, correctly tensioned and oil free. I acknowledge that some of my earlier comments were not directly related to the OPs question. However this forum regularly receives queries regarding this as a solution to charging woes; just wanted other readers to see that this is a similar solution to a different problem. Yes, could have been worded better in my earlier posts
  2. The joy of standards is that there are so many to choose from......
  3. The one at the bottom of the picture certainly looks like a Lucas A127. The size of the thick red wire; both length and cross sectional area, needs to be determined to see if it is suitable for use with the larger alternator. The important bit - it's unlikely to make any significant difference to your battery charging, but will help if running the engine to help with large inverter loads. I would view it as a worthwhile upgrade if being carried out as a service replacement for a failed 70 amp unit. Steve (Eeyore)
  4. There is one obvious difference that affects owners of newer (usually Japanese) engines; M8 fittings often need a 12mm spanner. I mention this because at some time or another we have to change or re tension alternator belt drives. There are lots of other variations, but none that I can think of that a boater would regularly encounter.
  5. The 1305 (approx 1300cc, 4 cylinder) engine hasn't been sold by Beta for some time. Some of these earlier engines did use versions of the Lucas A127, so the similar (slightly larger) 90 amp unit could be an option. Do you have any pictures of the installation? Steve (Eeyore)
  6. Wot he said You should check everything Tony has suggested whilst you are down there; its the same type of connection in the same environment.
  7. These engines have a (slave) relay for the starter, usually mounted on the side of the engine. Try “waggling” the relay next time it fails to start. Sometimes it’s the relay, and sometimes it’s muck and corrosion on the pins and socket. I think it’s a 70 amp version of the typical 1 inch cube relays. The 70 amp type has two larger spade terminals. The lower rated ones come in two types; each has the same terminal numbers - but in different positions.
  8. Hi Geoff I fear that the combination of “not been started for a long time”, and “water present” in the fuel could have lead to corrosion in the injection pumps. I have seen this on three different engines, but the principle is the same. You could try removing the electric shut down solenoid from the back of the engine; this may give sufficient access to push and pull directly on the rack. If the rack “frees off” it is likely to be a short term fix as the particles of corrosion are still in there. I really hope I’m wrong on this one, but it does sound familiar. Steve (Eeyore)
  9. I thought the majority of boats came as standard with passive dehumidifiers? They are generally referred to as single glazed windows; they even have drains to allow the condensate overboard. Coat.......
  10. It sounds like the boat is at the "basic" end of what most would concider "standard". Just needs a volt meter and a small charger to maintain the battery whilst at the marina. Wire the charger so that it only works from the shore supply. Check and clean all the terminals and away you go. Bear in mind that its probably worked fine for the first 13 years, so there can't be that much wrong with it. More expensive and complex options are available.
  11. Personaly I would go with type 4 terminals. No limitatations to number of cables attached (yes, the recommended number is three according to one code of practice; and we all abide by those); longer bolts can be used. The tightening torque is not transfered to the battery post, so no broken studs caused by heavy handed tightening.
  12. Definetly needs a good trashing. Coolant temperature is no indicator of combustion temperature. An exhaust gas temperature in the range 1000 to 1200 degrees Fahrenheit is concidered "healthy". As an apprentice I was surprised how quickly carbon built up the injectors (we had half a dozen Perkins 3.354 that ran for 30 min between top end overhauls!)
  13. The minimum recommended diameter pulley for the "A" section belt of that type (Fenner Twistlink) is quoted as 80mm or 3 inches. Someone at Fenner obviosly cann't convert from mm to inches! They really don't like anything smaller, especialy when well tensioned.
  14. Technicaly very interesting, but how would I know if its been stolen, or just popped round to its mates driveway?
  15. Bowman manufacture a wide range of heat exchangers (gearbox oil included), water cooled exhaust manifolds (with and without heat exchanger tube stacks) and header tank heat exchanger combinations; all of which have rubber components, and all of which could in some combination be applied to a BMC 1.8 engine. So already knowing this allows you to diagnose the issue without the op actually confirming what they have? Perhaps adding the word "mystic" to your forum name would help. Just joking of course; it's the Guinness talking.
  16. My 1996 vintage panel has had similar failures (button did not "pop" out) with these breakers on water pump and shower pump circuits. Probably something to do with using them on motor circuits. I fitted a higher rated breaker (but still below the current capacity of the cable) which seems ok so far.
  17. Not to worry; Tony and Stillearning have posted a way foward for you. A photograph is always useful.
  18. What is the correct size spanner for the remaining nuts? 15 mm is more likely 5/8", and that could be either BSW, BSF or Unified depending on the age of the instalation.
  19. Just pulled these from the Durite catalogue to show the difference. Note that the electrical drawing is the same for both. Disregard the writing on the images of the relays, they're just library images.
  20. It will work just fine, you just need good eyesight to read the terminal numbers!
  21. Yes physically identical layout of the terminals; its just the numbers on the terminals that are different. The one you have bought is different to the one shown on most Beta diagrams. Swop them over by reference to the terminal numbers and not their positions (although they may be the same if the old relay is not the original)
  22. Take the old one with you (you have photos for reference). Believe it or not there are two terminal layouts for this size of relay; the other type has terminals 30 and 86 transposed.
  23. I follow what you are trying to achieve, but can't find a Beta diagram that matches the colour coding. Would a shorting link between 30 and 87 (without disturbing any of the existing wiring, and with the ignition off) cause the domestic alternator lamp to illuminate? Which is of course the same as moving the white wires from 87 to 87a. I also notice that one of the black wires appears to be held in by the spade connector; and that there appears to be two wires (brown/yellow?) on the other side of the lamp. Bigcol, can we have a few more pictures please. One showing the whole of the back of the panel and one around the ignition switch. I see that you replied whilst I was typing this.
  24. Interesting, the additional pulley is often a poly v that is actualy smaller in diameter than the one its attached to. I wonder if your twin vee is from the "fire pump" spec engine.
  25. An interesting read; I was particularly interested in the operating instruction on page 5 which explains how to engage forward or reverse. I have seem many pictures of dog tooth damage which I would attribute to operator error. The phase I think is missing from the operating instructions would read something like: "Move the morse (or other) control lever from neutral to forward (or reverse) in a swift and decisive manner" This is a "kindness" to dog clutches as a gentle approach simply knocks the ends off the teeth. Such damage makes gear changes progressively more difficult, and ultimately causes the clutch to disengage under load.
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