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Eeyore

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Everything posted by Eeyore

  1. I thought the majority of boats came as standard with passive dehumidifiers? They are generally referred to as single glazed windows; they even have drains to allow the condensate overboard. Coat.......
  2. It sounds like the boat is at the "basic" end of what most would concider "standard". Just needs a volt meter and a small charger to maintain the battery whilst at the marina. Wire the charger so that it only works from the shore supply. Check and clean all the terminals and away you go. Bear in mind that its probably worked fine for the first 13 years, so there can't be that much wrong with it. More expensive and complex options are available.
  3. Personaly I would go with type 4 terminals. No limitatations to number of cables attached (yes, the recommended number is three according to one code of practice; and we all abide by those); longer bolts can be used. The tightening torque is not transfered to the battery post, so no broken studs caused by heavy handed tightening.
  4. Definetly needs a good trashing. Coolant temperature is no indicator of combustion temperature. An exhaust gas temperature in the range 1000 to 1200 degrees Fahrenheit is concidered "healthy". As an apprentice I was surprised how quickly carbon built up the injectors (we had half a dozen Perkins 3.354 that ran for 30 min between top end overhauls!)
  5. The minimum recommended diameter pulley for the "A" section belt of that type (Fenner Twistlink) is quoted as 80mm or 3 inches. Someone at Fenner obviosly cann't convert from mm to inches! They really don't like anything smaller, especialy when well tensioned.
  6. Technicaly very interesting, but how would I know if its been stolen, or just popped round to its mates driveway?
  7. Bowman manufacture a wide range of heat exchangers (gearbox oil included), water cooled exhaust manifolds (with and without heat exchanger tube stacks) and header tank heat exchanger combinations; all of which have rubber components, and all of which could in some combination be applied to a BMC 1.8 engine. So already knowing this allows you to diagnose the issue without the op actually confirming what they have? Perhaps adding the word "mystic" to your forum name would help. Just joking of course; it's the Guinness talking.
  8. My 1996 vintage panel has had similar failures (button did not "pop" out) with these breakers on water pump and shower pump circuits. Probably something to do with using them on motor circuits. I fitted a higher rated breaker (but still below the current capacity of the cable) which seems ok so far.
  9. Not to worry; Tony and Stillearning have posted a way foward for you. A photograph is always useful.
  10. What is the correct size spanner for the remaining nuts? 15 mm is more likely 5/8", and that could be either BSW, BSF or Unified depending on the age of the instalation.
  11. Just pulled these from the Durite catalogue to show the difference. Note that the electrical drawing is the same for both. Disregard the writing on the images of the relays, they're just library images.
  12. It will work just fine, you just need good eyesight to read the terminal numbers!
  13. Yes physically identical layout of the terminals; its just the numbers on the terminals that are different. The one you have bought is different to the one shown on most Beta diagrams. Swop them over by reference to the terminal numbers and not their positions (although they may be the same if the old relay is not the original)
  14. Take the old one with you (you have photos for reference). Believe it or not there are two terminal layouts for this size of relay; the other type has terminals 30 and 86 transposed.
  15. I follow what you are trying to achieve, but can't find a Beta diagram that matches the colour coding. Would a shorting link between 30 and 87 (without disturbing any of the existing wiring, and with the ignition off) cause the domestic alternator lamp to illuminate? Which is of course the same as moving the white wires from 87 to 87a. I also notice that one of the black wires appears to be held in by the spade connector; and that there appears to be two wires (brown/yellow?) on the other side of the lamp. Bigcol, can we have a few more pictures please. One showing the whole of the back of the panel and one around the ignition switch. I see that you replied whilst I was typing this.
  16. Interesting, the additional pulley is often a poly v that is actualy smaller in diameter than the one its attached to. I wonder if your twin vee is from the "fire pump" spec engine.
  17. An interesting read; I was particularly interested in the operating instruction on page 5 which explains how to engage forward or reverse. I have seem many pictures of dog tooth damage which I would attribute to operator error. The phase I think is missing from the operating instructions would read something like: "Move the morse (or other) control lever from neutral to forward (or reverse) in a swift and decisive manner" This is a "kindness" to dog clutches as a gentle approach simply knocks the ends off the teeth. Such damage makes gear changes progressively more difficult, and ultimately causes the clutch to disengage under load.
  18. Check the wiring connections to the electric fuel pump. I had something similar, the engine would start to stall, then the shuddering would move the wiring just enough to re establish connection. Took ages to trace. Although failing fuel pump is also a possibility.
  19. If I recall (or remember) correctly
  20. edited as I didn't read the whole thing!
  21. Fridges start at about 90 watts, but suppliers now tend to specify them by their annual kwh consumption. A quick trip to your local supplier to look at the ratings plate would be a good idea.
  22. Quick update. Trial fit of engine showing improved swim arrangement, poor thing looks lost in there! All new steel aft of the bulkhead as per my earlier post. Nearly finished, just bracing myself for the bill!
  23. Ask questions and make notes whenever you have someone working on the engine. They can tell you the names and functions of the various bits and pieces as well as telling you the most common problems with your particular engine type. With this information you will be able to "waggle with confidence" should any issues arise in the future.
  24. Have watched the video for you Tony ;-) At 3:43 min the engine can be heard to increase in revs before spluttering and then regaining revs. At 7:30 min the engine dies from high revs with no preceding rise in revs; almost as though the stop control had been operated. Steve
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