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rgriffiths

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  1. Absolutely right - white smoke. And that is exactly what one of the mechanics said at the marina when he had a look at me trying to start it, although he claimed he didn't really know that much about engines. Only 40 years experience fixing them!! A 'bark' ... I will have a good listen. Thanks again
  2. Success! A little trial and error but ended up adjusting the timing by removing 4 of the 5 shims such that the timing went from a touch above TDC to around 18 below. And then ..... it started first time without any problems whatsoever. The sound of the engine was a little different from before. It isn't knocking as such so I think the timing is good but is throatier than before - hopefully back to as it should be. The main thing is that the timing was clearly the issue and I can review the timing again after I have cruised it for a while. It is out of the water at the moment and so can't test it under load but back in tomorrow and fingers crossed continues to work well. As ever, thanks for all the advice. Invaluable.
  3. This is from the manual. I can't see the timing marks as they are hidden by the bell housing which can't be removed and there is no inspection hole. Having reread these instructions I will give it another go tomorrow as they make better sense to me now.
  4. Yes - but my methods for coming to this conclusion are pretty hit and miss don't you think? I was really asking for tips to check the injection timing to confirm that it might be too far advanced.
  5. I have a voltmeter and will check it with all four. The jump lead is a good tip and will try that too. Thanks.
  6. Thanks Tony. I hadn't considered the size of cable and you are right it is a thin cable. The actual voltage I have not checked but removed a plug and clamped it to engine and glowed red hot on the turn of the key. I could upgrade the cable to see if that improves things. Certainly won't do any harm and did think it took a while (about 15 seconds) for them to get up to heat.
  7. Clear - all good. Quite white and puffy when turing over getting it to start.
  8. Some time ago I posted this question regarding a cracked injector pump. A few months on and I am still having trouble with this engine. Once started it runs well, but it is very reluctant to start. I have to turn it over for many times before I get any kind of bite, and this is with jumpers onto another boat. Clearly this is not a solution but I wondering what to do next to solve this one .... This is what I have done so far: New injector pump. The old one had two shims for timing and I used these when installing the new pump. Had the head checked. A couple of valves reseated and skimmed. Compression is around 400psi in each cylinder. According to Beta would be 435 to 460 when new, but should run on 325 or higher. Injectors rebuilt. New glow plugs. Tested in situ and glow red when key is turned so seem OK. New diesel, filters, oil etc. The diesel looks fine, no water in the seperator. I have not polished the fuel and one suggestion is to try running from a can of new diesel. I have not tried this yet. It is currently out of the water in a marina. A couple of the guys there have had a look, watched it try to start etc and said that I should consider the injection pump timing. I haven't done this before but have read the manual and done a bit of digging. The timing marks are on the flywheel which can't be reached due to the bell housing but I have a reasonably accurate measure using a screwdriver through injector 1 a cable tie and a mark on the pulley. Turning by hand it seems that diesel is delivered from injector 1 about 10 degrees after TDC. As an experiment I also took a video thinking I might be able to watch frame by frame. It is not very clear but this is what I can gather from it. The little red mark is 0 degrees against the white cable tie (crude I know). So I am asking for anyone's thoughts. Does this look like it could be the problem? If so would removing the two shims deliver the diesel earlier and possibly improve the starting? A bit hit and miss I know but is it worth a go? Any tips gratefully received.
  9. Just in case anyone is interested ..... I took the injectors to be checked and one was totally seized up. No matter how much pressure the guy put into it nothing came through. His diagnosis was that in cranking the engine the pressure built up behind this injector which ultimately caused the pump to crack.
  10. Yes. Was running for about 10 mins. Thinking all was fine I packed up to leave and then it started spluttering and cut out. It didn't start again and after hours of checking/testing injectors, the lifter pump etc finally decided to remove the injector pump .... to find the crack. Must be new but confused as to why it might suddenly happen.
  11. My first thought was that water might have got in and this may have frozen/caused it but at all times only red diesel seemed to be coming through. Plus the tank was polished last July. Two of the screws are out (not sure if you can see on pic 2) and slightly concerned where they ended up.
  12. Engine was running well but run out fuel. Filled up and got it going and then 10 minutes later cut out. It wouldn't restart and after much investigating found considerable amount of diesel found in the sump. Looked into a number of possible causes and then finally checked the injector pump and found this: The 3 people I have shown this to so far (includng Beta) have all said that they have not seen anything like this before. Questions are: 1 - Any idea how this might this have happened? A new pump is expensive and do not want a repeat if there might be another issue that led to this happening. 2 - Could this have caused damage to the housing or linkages in the block? 2 - Does anyone know of where I might source a used replacement? Embosed on the sides: 64020 96210 & 16054 STOP
  13. Thanks all. Skin tank is bled and full. Will double check things again tomorrow. Been running with the thermostat out today so as not have that being a problem. Combustion test kit looks like a great idea. I have not seen that before. Will get on to ebay. Would a gas meter do the same thing I wonder? I have one of these.
  14. No smoke in the exhaust, no visible leaks anywhere, nothing in the oil. While the engine has been running no leaks and no topping up. Just tiny bubbles. Come back the next day and it needs a couple of litres. Runs really well too.
  15. When I say looks fine I mean the oil cap and dipstick. Adding just water at the moment and I know it looks a bit rusty. Full flush also needed. Will put antifreeze in once there are no bubbles. When you say water pump what is your thinking?
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