cheesegas

Mine was a plastic dump through, made from what looks like 10mm high density polyethylene. Rock solid and very heavy, it was a struggle with two of us to lift it out. You could stand on top of it without any flex, and the toilet was on a corner so it was even stronger.

Before I removed mine, it was 250 litres, big plastic thing which sat on the floor. Used to last two of us around 10 days, and that's putting loo paper down and flushing with a bit of water.

There’s design flaws with all boats...I recently had mine blacked, and the guy was cursing the designer of the Reeves boat which was in before me for an engine swap...apparently a chunk of the cabin had to be removed just to get the engine out. They then had to strip the new engine down to a short block just to get it in the hole. Liverpool are probably simply and cheaply designed which has its flaws (gas locker and rear steps fill up with rain...), but maintenance seems to be pretty easy. Only seen a couple of Liverpool hulls though.

I have a 1992 Liverpool boat with an owner fit out - there’s a few design flaws with the back step drainage and gas locker lid but overall well designed. Good engine bay access, solid stern handrail with bracing, big drainage channel in the engine bay and the weld quality is good. Maybe it got worse afterwards, but the original paint still looks good aside from rust spots on the roof at the back. It’s not been particularly well looked after before me, but it’s only needed a bit of plating at the front.

I have a Champion 73001i genny, 2800w continuous 3100w peak. Bit louder and the tank is smaller than a Honda EU3000 but it’s around half the weight. 36kg dry but it’s not too bad to lift out the boat from the front deck - one heave onto the gunnel, hop onto the shore and then a heave onto the ground. After that it’s got wheels. Not a cheap generator by any means, think it was originally £800 but still a third of the price of a Honda. Had it apart to clean and it’s made very well with attention to detail on servicing. We have 8 of these units at work which are getting close to 1000 ho

Can confirm the notes about trim - having its butt sit heavy in the water is always a good thing. Mine has an rather large water tank in bow bow at just over 1000 litres and to make it steer nicely when the tank is full, I've had to heavily ballast the back. This means when the tank's empty, the back sits noticeably lower...and the sliding bathroom door closes itself.

Thanks all! To address the above Sliding door - good idea, but the electrical panel is to the right of the door so it would mean moving a lot of it...rewiring is on the list of things to do, but not quite yet! Overlapping flap - as the top needs to open seperately, it would jam on the rubber as it's on the outside Alan - yep, I got this boat for cheap because the same thing happened but not as serious...the drain holes blocked and the woodwork/floor by the door rotted under the laminate floor. The lining would indeed be the width of the steel angle, updated

I've currently got a standard Yale lock on the top half and a manual bolt on the bottom, there's off-the-shelf heavy duty surface mounting locks which I can modify to fit a thin door fairly easily though, something like this on the bottom half https://www.lockmonster.co.uk/item/lince-rim-deadlock-3916-keyed-both-sides-a-l29680 . On the top half would be a deadlocking Yale latch. I'd like to avoid making holes in the door to keep it weatherproof. The current stable door is sealed with a rubber strip which works ok, but it's reliant on the door being fairly thick to make a seal. G

Hi all, thanks for the help on the past threads...stern steps sorted, fitted a new drive plate, got to reseal a couple of windows and my cheap boat is starting to look a little better! Next job is to replace the hardwood stern doors. Boat is a cruiser stern with external steps and an offset inwards opening stable door, no hatch. The current doors aren't rotten and look good, but they're severely warped due to damp so water gets in the gaps. I'd like to replace them with steel for security, got a couple of quotes but I think I have the time towards the start of summer to build some

I bought my boat about 6 months ago when the market was mad but not nearly as mad as it is now... Brokers would list a boat for slightly below the going rate, wait until they get loads of calls about it, tell the buyers it's been sold subject to survey etc and then call non stop with other boats way outside the price range and spec you're after. I even travelled a couple of hours to go and see one, only to be told that it had been sold while I was on the way up there and he showed me a bunch of totally unsuitable other ones. I questioned how it has been sold so fast that the buyer

Thanks for the tip on the input shaft spline, I’ll check it carefully. Yeah, I was surprised when the there wasn’t a universal drilled one, stupidly I didn’t ask about the lead time though! Will call back today. And yep, it’s a cush plate.

Hi all. Now I've sorted the stern step drain, next thing on the list is the rattly drive plate... I was aware of the noise and impending replacement when I bought the boat, but clunk has recently got worse at idle so it's time to pull the 'box and replace the plate before the vibes nuke the gearbox, or it disintegrates. I've got an Isuzu 3KC1 mated to a PRM Delta 20 hydraulic gearbox and a Centaflex propshaft coupling. So I can order a new plate, does anyone have any idea what SAE the engine's flywheel is? I'm assuming it's an SAE bolt pattern at least, early 90s Japanese engine!

Strong neodymium magnet on a bit of rope. It's the sort of thing you put off buying as it's not needed for any purpose right now, and then you really, really need it when keys/tools/glasses end up in the canal. Mine was about £15 for a kit from eBay.

The software is painful to use - order an MT50 remote display and program it with that. Much easier.

How is this all wired up? Both inverters and the charge controller's output should go straight to the battery. A little sketch would be helpful. If you've connected an inverter straight to the charge controller's output and not the battery, that would explain why it's complaining of over voltage.