AndyE

My bad... as you can tell I gave up studying chemistry at a young age 🙂. Thanks for pointing this out.

Interesting idea, thanks. The coolant is 2 years old so in practice it's probably got a fair bit of life left in it. The Ankorsol doesn't have antifreeze capabilities, does it? So, once the antifreeze is dead then the Ankorsol won't be helping in that regard. Any ideas why it only seems to be for sale either direct from the manufacturer or from various eBay sellers... but no "normal" web retailers?

Thanks for the clarifications, and apologies for needing to ask. You make a good point about mixing. The one that I'd bought is Organic Acid Technology (OAT) and also it's Nitrite, Amine, Phosphate (NAP) Free and silicate free. From another source I did discover some concern about using OAT... OAT coolants are formulated for modern engines with aluminum parts and modern sealing materials. They don’t contain silicates, which help protect older metal surfaces. But I should check with Elton Moss as Canaline don't sell the engines already filled... the boat manufacturer adds the coolant when they plug together the various elements of the cooling system. I'm sure you know this already but this is just a light bulb moment for me. I guess if I did a complete drain and then flush then I could put in a coolant of my choosing. Online sources suggest that for most older vehicles (pre-1996 or so), you’re usually better off with IAT coolant (green): Contains silicates and phosphates for quick protection. Or in some cases, a Hybrid OAT (HOAT) that’s approved for older vehicles (usually orange or yellow), but only if the manufacturer specifically recommends it. The Canaline manual says that two main types of Coolant Concentrate (Anti-freeze) are available, and either may be used… 1. Blue ~ standard Coolant Concentrate, which has a typical service life of 12months. 2. Red/Orange ~ Long Life Coolant Concentrate which has a typical service life of 2~3 years. Both types should be mixed with clean water, up to a maximum concentration of 50%. Refer to the product container or specification sheet for frost protection vs concentration, and recommended service life. But it doesn't specify whether red is OAT, HOAT or whatever. Again, a question for Elton Moss, I guess. Complicated stuff, this coolant malarkey, eh?

Hi Tony. This is so helpful - thank you! Just a couple of clarifications would be really appreciated. The engine has whatever Canaline put in it as new. I've checked the manual and it says red/orange would be OK as a replacement so I've bought some ready mixed red which I believe is 50/50 water/antifreeze. So let me confirm my understanding: Either drain/refill the block in which case there should be no need to bleed. This will then mix in with the rest of the coolant in the system but I'll have changed at least 50% of the total. Or, drain the skin tank which will empty engine/skin tank/calorifier. But this may mean the calorifier (and tank?) MAY need bleeding. After this, it'll be 100% new coolant. For bleeding: Loosen the return pipe from the calorifier. Start the engine - 1000 rpm. Remove the return hose and leave it hanging. Thumb covers the engine nozzle where that pipe had come off from. Water & air comes out of the pipe When there's no sign of air coming out then stop the engine and refit the hose. Any idea how long that may take? (All the while, my side kick has been keeping the coolant level topped up). Any idea of how much water I'll have to catch from the dangling pipe in this process? I think the whole system is 8L. Thanks again.

I have a Canaline 42 in an Elton Moss. Any thoughts about servicing the coolant? Should I drain just the engine or also the skin tank? How to find the access point for each of these? What's the risk of getting air in the calorifier? If so, then how to bleed it? The engine is still quite new. Any thoughts on how to best deal with the coolant would be much appreciated! Worst case I guess I can just top it up but I think something more thorough is needed. Thanks in advance.

Would you mind explaining a couple of terms "re epoxy" & "Hardtop"? And what if the scrapes are above the waterline? Still out of the water? Sorry for the noob question but what do you mean by "Chalking"? Grey would be OK but shiny white glaring out from under the black is a bit too striking (to my eye). I may get used to it. Right now I'm embarrassed of such clear evidence of my mistakes e.g.entering tricky locks. (I guess imposter syndrome into such a friendly but skilled community).

Fair comment... I may well reach the same conclusion. It's just that the undercoat is such a stark contrast to the blacking. Hmmm... angle grinder sounds quite heavy duty. Or maybe I'm imagining the wrong type of tool! Any recommendations for tools & re-coating products appreciated! Thanks Tony. So, strip back to bare metal and then touch up with more epoxy presumably using sand/emery paper? Can I ask what primer/undercoat is required? And, can you suggest a product that would be appropriate for small-scale epoxy touch-up? Thanks again.

The boat's relatively new. The hull has 2-pack epoxy blacking over a very pale undercoat. In places, whilst learning the boat's handling, I've collected a few scrapes (I say this somewhat sheepishly), leaving the undercoat shining brightly through. I've previously been told that you can't patch up 2-pack with black paint. This leaves me wondering how I might tidy up the scrapes? Any help much appreciated.

So this means "it's tricky to get to/from the towpath"?? I see for example one location where it's outside a pub so you'd have to go through the pub I guess. No great hardship, I think! Thanks.

When looking on the wonderful canalplan, I see these words: 'There is access (unofficial access) to the towpath here.' I understand the words... but I don't really know what it means. I assume it doesn't mean I risk getting shot by a grumpy farmer? It looks like a valid CRT mooring site, so am I not (really) allowed to hop off the boat? Surely not! Please would someone mind educating me? Many thanks. P.S. Sorry for the dumb question 🙂

Nah, I have no plans for gun turrets (won't fit under bridges). Also:

Haha love it! Great idea though if the height is there. Which I agree at around 6'5" in the centre of the beam is unlikely.

Hadn't seen it - so many thanks.

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated!

Thanks Doug that’s really helpful. I was thinking in terms of a solo purchase, but at the back of my mind the boat share scenario was also lingering. You’ve just shone a bright light on that for me whilst at the same time reassuring me of the EM quality. Cheers.