James_P

Thanks guys, I checked the voltages (12.8v) direct from the battery termials to the solenoid, via a nice beefy wire with only an isolator swich on the live and all good. And the solenoid did click every time if the motor didn't even squeek. All had been WD40ed in case of damp connections Next day (after tell the CRT I was kaput) on turning the key the stater clunked. Went for a brew and the next time it jumped into life just fine! (Threats of new starter motor must have scared it.) Is there an easy way of measuring max Voltage drop when the starting the engine. The starter is the Lucas one, I know solenoid for similar Lucas starters are on eBay, but need to check I get the to right one. In the lister petter parts manuals I have they quote various parts numbers for the Lucas starter, and I don't have Lucas's part numbers for the bits. That's the bit I am not sure on. Will check Lancashire Rotating electrics. Just seen your message Alan, thanks, just mines different with the solenoid on the side of the starter. Just like British Engineering why fo things one way when you can do it as many ways as possible!

Hi all, My starter motor went had a sulk, turn the key got the heat coil and then a click and thats was it. Now it working for now, but don't like being at the wim of machines with a mood. So where can you get a solenoid for a Lucas starter motor on a lister petter lpws4? Many thanks James

If your going for a wheel, proper one that does a ridiculous number of turns. (remember only uncouth motorcars have swearing of one turn each way) then could go the whole hog and get a ship telegraph from the bridge (well deck) for the captan (better half) to give orders that dead slow (tickover)is just too fast.....

Hi all, I'm in Milton Keynes on the Grand Union. Where are the place you like, dislike or avoid when mooring in MK? Many thanks James

Sorry if I was not clear, Basically how to protect the bare metal. So out side of the hull, under the gunnel, IE liable to be in the canal, what would you do beneath the blacking, prep, other stuff like red oxide, etc. Above the gunnels the prep before painting in a nice colour, and any recomendation for painting you swear by. Inside, it's a trad so the inside of the stern, the last owner never finished it an I will probably need put some bracketry in to support the engin enclosure.

After significant welding work (post survey plating) what's you view on a second survey? When relevent, things to watch out / ask for etc... many thanks James

Hi all, First after welding, cutting screwing etc metal work. What do you think is best practice for finishing, for above interior, above the gunnels, below the gunnels (Blacking a given)?

Has the boat picked a new leader?

Ok, thank guys.

Hi all Looks needing to use power tools on the 2kw pure sine inverter. When running these large loads with high inductances how wise is it to push the inverter? Or should leave a good over head like push no more than 1.5kw? Thanks again James

That's what you call a 'lock in' You guys all wonderful, just ask an innocent question about locking up the boat, well cats are easily to herd!

When I was working on tin birds in sky (for my day job) variations on the theme glue & screw was the norm. The mechanic fasters stop the bonded joint peeling from prying up from one side. We learnt this one the hard way when discovered just how easy a 2000psi adhesive will fail without the fasteners, and as consequence the whole project!)

Thanks guys for the thoughts and advice. James

Hi. The lock on my trad stern is just the usual padlock. So why is this so common on boats? Why are common locks that are more secure not typically used? Eg a normal multi point lock from a house. Yes, I get anyone could break in a boat with an angle grinder just that is a little less discret that a 'clump' and their in with a bolt cutter.

Never big enough?