Polishicebreaker

Looking for something not too big but decent enough to do a reasonable load. (on shore power) any ideas?? Many thanks

Just prepping steel ready for painting. taken back to metal pretty much(slow!) but there are obviously tiny bits of surface rust ( no rust scale) question is, can I paint straight on this or or any treatment recommendations? I don’t Like vactan as it’s latex based. I’ve heard some use neat phosphoric acid and rinse off. Any opinions on this please? I’m guessing the same would happen in a boat yard after grit blasting if they didn’t paint immediately after blasting. many thanks.

I have to make good some bits in the tank that burned through when welding, don't want to spend 90 quid on 5 litres of paint just for tiny bits. I guess there's no alternative? boo-hoo

Got a par max 2.9 - it’s developed a small leak had heavy use for 5 years, shall I just buy a new one? Whenever I used to try and fix shurflo pumps it was rarely successful cheers. Ed

that sounds like a good plan. I am adding a little plating to the boat so she may be sitting a little lower when I go back in the water, which is part of my concern.

Thanks for your swift response, never thought about the vibration issue. I'll post a photo tomorrow when this rain stops (hopefully!) The engine has a large bolt at each corner but nothing special I don't think. I'm quite keen not to have to change the whole cooling system if possible - the damn things cost me enough money already

My exhaust is a crude steel pipe that goes from engine to hull, it's only around 4-5 inches above waterline with no swan neck. Someone said I could perhaps fit a higher one or put a swan neck in the existing one. I actually have to do a little plating over where the outlet is anyway so is this a good time to redo exhaust? Are there any better exhaust methods these days other than a steel pipe or is this still the norm? many thanks

great thanks, what brand is this?

thanks may be worth hiring one! Just debating whether all the paint needs to come off the bottom or just scratch up the old epoxy. There is specks of rust coming through as it didn't get done that well 7 years ago so maybe it's time to do it properly- boo

Hi, I've been out the boat game for a little while, is there anything better these days for DIY epoxy prep than a terco blaster tool ? ( I know about scrabblers but they are expensive) cheers

7 years ago I painted my boat in sigmacover 2 part epoxy. The paint is still pretty good so naturally I want to use the same thing again (also found it easy to thin and work with) I think it was sigmacover 400 last time but they seem to have changed the numbers around https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/metal-paints/metal-topcoats/4132-ppg-sigmacover-2.html#/340-finish-semi_gloss/1294-size-4l/8957-colour_group-ppg_standard_1 does this look suitable, anyone else use this Cheers Ed

ah so it's up to the insurer

Another question that relates to the original. If the insurer requests a survey, do they then have a set criteria regarding plate thickness etc. For example, a well maintained springer, say that has been built with 4mm steel and is now no less than 3.8 mm in places after 30 years? Would a company require the boat be plated to thicker than 4mm or does the company just go off the opinion of the surveyor? and so we are not just speculating..... I'll ask the question- Does anyone have fully comp insurance on a boat that's older than 30? thanks

Fully comp

Are there companies that don’t require survey? If so, I’d be interested to know who? many thanks