James_P

Thanks guys, I checked the voltages (12.8v) direct from the battery termials to the solenoid, via a nice beefy wire with only an isolator swich on the live and all good. And the solenoid did click every time if the motor didn't even squeek. All had been WD40ed in case of damp connections Next day (after tell the CRT I was kaput) on turning the key the stater clunked. Went for a brew and the next time it jumped into life just fine! (Threats of new starter motor must have scared it.) Is there an easy way of measuring max Voltage drop when the starting the engine. The starter is the Lucas one, I know solenoid for similar Lucas starters are on eBay, but need to check I get the to right one. In the lister petter parts manuals I have they quote various parts numbers for the Lucas starter, and I don't have Lucas's part numbers for the bits. That's the bit I am not sure on. Will check Lancashire Rotating electrics. Just seen your message Alan, thanks, just mines different with the solenoid on the side of the starter. Just like British Engineering why fo things one way when you can do it as many ways as possible!

Hi all, My starter motor went had a sulk, turn the key got the heat coil and then a click and thats was it. Now it working for now, but don't like being at the wim of machines with a mood. So where can you get a solenoid for a Lucas starter motor on a lister petter lpws4? Many thanks James

If your going for a wheel, proper one that does a ridiculous number of turns. (remember only uncouth motorcars have swearing of one turn each way) then could go the whole hog and get a ship telegraph from the bridge (well deck) for the captan (better half) to give orders that dead slow (tickover)is just too fast.....

Hi all, I'm in Milton Keynes on the Grand Union. Where are the place you like, dislike or avoid when mooring in MK? Many thanks James

Sorry if I was not clear, Basically how to protect the bare metal. So out side of the hull, under the gunnel, IE liable to be in the canal, what would you do beneath the blacking, prep, other stuff like red oxide, etc. Above the gunnels the prep before painting in a nice colour, and any recomendation for painting you swear by. Inside, it's a trad so the inside of the stern, the last owner never finished it an I will probably need put some bracketry in to support the engin enclosure.

After significant welding work (post survey plating) what's you view on a second survey? When relevent, things to watch out / ask for etc... many thanks James

Hi all, First after welding, cutting screwing etc metal work. What do you think is best practice for finishing, for above interior, above the gunnels, below the gunnels (Blacking a given)?

Has the boat picked a new leader?

Ok, thank guys.

Hi all Looks needing to use power tools on the 2kw pure sine inverter. When running these large loads with high inductances how wise is it to push the inverter? Or should leave a good over head like push no more than 1.5kw? Thanks again James

That's what you call a 'lock in' You guys all wonderful, just ask an innocent question about locking up the boat, well cats are easily to herd!

When I was working on tin birds in sky (for my day job) variations on the theme glue & screw was the norm. The mechanic fasters stop the bonded joint peeling from prying up from one side. We learnt this one the hard way when discovered just how easy a 2000psi adhesive will fail without the fasteners, and as consequence the whole project!)

Thanks guys for the thoughts and advice. James

Hi. The lock on my trad stern is just the usual padlock. So why is this so common on boats? Why are common locks that are more secure not typically used? Eg a normal multi point lock from a house. Yes, I get anyone could break in a boat with an angle grinder just that is a little less discret that a 'clump' and their in with a bolt cutter.

Never big enough?

Thanks guy for you all thoughts. So apart from the obvious like a Vetus control panel. Are the makes of gauges that you swear by and thought that shouldn't be touched even with a pointy stick?

You guys are great, A bit more, the boat over the last 30 years has been everywhere the split between the cut and in marina I don't know. As I remember in the paperwork it stated 10 mm baseplate and that was what the survey also stated. The survey recommended overplating from the measurements the surveyor took. On a different note, copper bottomed boat... Putting practicallies to one side that would be quite a look with the 'bee' yellow and black paint job. Could we call that 'a ship of the line' as let's face it, that's how we tend to sail?

So are fuel and rev gauges not realy that needed in practise?

Thanks for the info. I take it a good lump of ballasts should come out too.

Hi all, I know some boats the only gauge is almost what you feel through your feet and some boats have as many dials as an old aeroplane. So what do swear by and which ones are only useful in 'theory'? As show in the pic the last owner never finished the back cabin of the trad and most of the dials were never connected. So it needs sorting and I want to sort it out right. Love to hear your thought/opinions and prejudices on the matter!

Hi guys, How should a baseplate properly overplated? The boat had a normal flat 10mm baseplate. Are their standard/best/marine practices? Are there any 'less than practices best practices' to be aware of? Many thanks. James.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the advice.

Thanks guys, Yes, so what would the key concern/ requirements for RCD and RCR be? Eg appropriate gas tightness for carbon monoxide/fumes. Any fire resistance requirments. Etc... As far as latch &. Catches, For the access panels for periodic maintenance like oil and filters then I'll have to find something that will hold things tight. For the day access, then is there something like the quick release for a bike sadle/wheels, but mounting on something like a barrel nut so the fastener doest not fall into the bildge?

Of course the Lister is water feed through the bars. I have heard giving water-methanol in its bottle can make it a right beast! Some may frown upon the discovery that a narrow boat can also be a planing hull... Ok, over enter clips look nice and simple. Like the bonnet of an old car, or for that matter the cowling of a modern aircraft.

Hi guys, Thanks for all the recommendations. Below, is the rear of the boat from the inside. Just a white wooden box over the engine and no bulkhead across the boat. I think the wooden box will want to be replaced with something more like what you guys have shown already. What ways of making the detachable engine access panels so they won't rattle with the engine? Also what/how much sounds damping is practical and not o.t.t. with no real benefit? Thanks again James