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NB Esk

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NB Esk last won the day on March 2

NB Esk had the most liked content!

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wakefield , West Yorkshire.
  • Interests
    Narrowboating, especially the self-build side of it. Mechanic by profession, I am currently restoring a vintage 2cyl Dorman diesel, which will ultimately power my NB.
    Currently building my own narrow tug shell (started in 2007 & still not finished).
    Interested in industrial archeology, especially coal mining.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    MOT tester/ motor engineer, oh, and now retired.
  • Boat Name
    narrowboat ESK...same but different. Ex Tom pudding tug HATFIELD
  • Boat Location
    Wakefield wharf

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Have you possibly got both red wires going to your leisure bank, when one should monitor the start batt? Could be my eyes of course.....
  2. The only time I've given a lock gate a fair clout (happily a top gate) was on a boat where the owner was new to boating, new to diy and possibly new to common sense. He had, for some reason, "overhauled " his morse control and would I take the boat out to test it and also take him through his first ever lock. Not a problem I thought (lol) so off we went, tried the morse lever several times and all appeared good. Arrived at the lock and set it, motored into the chamber, thankfully slowly as I was explaining what I was doing, went for astern and all that happened was I picked up speed in forward. Now it's one of those slow motion moments, all I could do was put the lever in neutral and brace for impact. Boat was now still in ahead but at least on tick over, smack!! Stripped the morse control down in the lock chamber, to find he hadn't bent back the legs of the split pins as he didn't want to "waste " them. Managed to find the missing split pin on the deck board and replaced it, properly this time. Wasn't impressed with his mechanical skills but it could have been worse.
  3. You put it in place of a missing split pin?
  4. Used to make toy soldiers from lead, yes children were allowed to do stuff like play with molten lead in those days. The fumes gave me terrible headache.......come to think of it, it's been all downhill since then.
  5. True but unable to use inhibitors in this case as the welded area is raw water. I did "vee " out before welding though, so it has some thickness.
  6. Short update on the heat exchanger, weld dressed to remove excess material, a coat of sealing paint and it looks to have made a useable service spare. Thanks for the interest.
  7. That's the battle when trying to weld cast iron. It's often a fingers crossed moment. When I initially fitted the parts together I had to tack the pieces together to ensure correct mating. These tacks (later ground out) were made cold and I could hear the familiar tinkle as the cast started to pull. As mentioned earlier it had previously been repaired by metal stitching, the only reason for this is no one was willing to try welding it. Some interesting metal stitching videos on YouTube.
  8. It's only my opinion but I do believe small patches/pieces (of a different material) could be welded into cast iron to replace a missing bit. Okay they're going to try to contract at different rates but that's what welding tries to do and it's why they have to cool over a long period. If it's an important part, as yours sounds to be, I would try to do this on a scrap item (it's something I've never tried to do) to see what happens.
  9. Cast iron is a difficult metal to weld and would be even more so if it wasn't pre heated. The casting was placed back in the fire several times to ensure it remained hot. The repairs took about six hours but more than half of that was waiting time, while the casting came back to temperature. On completion the part was left in the fire to try to normalise the casting with the weld metal. It was still warm to the touch the following day, so had given up it's heat gradually. In short, if this process wasn't followed, the repair would be likely to crack. Hope this is of interest.
  10. It won't involve you pressing any buttons will it?
  11. Thanks, forgot to say it's stick 7018 rods (my favourite). Turned the amps down as low as I dare, that's why the bead is a little crowned. Other side not so neat, had to lay down a kind of pad, to cover those old stitches. It was cold by the time I was by the petrol can, lol.....
  12. Posted just for interest, it's the repair of a cast iron Serck type heat exchanger, could apply to other engine types. This was in a very sorry state and probably only just above scrap. It had been frozen and repaired several times, including being metal stitched. Welding over this last repair was problematic, don't know what the "stitches " were made from but they didn't like weld metal. Anyway, some images of the repair process, hope it's of interest.
  13. I'd love that but would have to make do with the one below.....
  14. Here's my method of making a weedhatch seal. You'll need a tube of quality sealant, Sikaflex or similar, some cling film and a Stanley knife blade. Day one. Squeeze four "blobs" of sealant into all four corners. Day two. Pare down the blobs to the required height, say around 4mm. Squeeze the rest to the sealant round the hatch and then wrap the hatch lid in cling film. Put the lid in place and screw down gently. (The four cured blobs will hold the hatch and maintain the gap). If you want the cling film can be removed a day later or just left in place. Finally retighten. Mine has been like this for six years at least and has never passed a drop of water despite being removed on several occasions. The satisfying thud as it drops into place, proves the perfect seal.
  15. Yes, well spotted. Looks really thin for a towline.....
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