kiwiSteve

All the scrubbing and blasting and more scrubbing must have been worth it.... oil after 3.5hrs running....

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yeah this is the spare that is here at home I dismantled it for a practise run... had to build a puller and stuff. I thought I might recon this plate then just exchange them on the boat... I'll have a search for that thanks Tony the pinion my be as bad or worser on the other engine and need it...

Yes.. the pump sits on a cam and pumps oil onto the planetary gear which then runs to the bottom of the box where its picked up by the pump again rather than spinning through oil.. looks like one of those endless threads on the inside of the pinion that carries the lube theres no cooling on the reverse box and I guess the oil passes to the end runs back down the box and a lot of the heat in the oil would be lost to the cast iron housing then pools in the bottom ready to go round again

finally got a puller sorted and slipped off the rear bearing, oil pump cam and adapter plate... big rubber seal on the back of the main bearing.. I'm guessing the oil pump is pushing oil through the bearing seal and its pooling in the bottom of the bell housing and being picked up by the teeth on the fly wheel and spraying up top of the bell housing and running down the front at the join....

Ive just been through this whole scenario.. dont be fooled an engine change is like a snowball the problems just get bigger as you roll... weight, horsepower, bed length, gearbox rotation, prop size, drive shaft length, reduction, modern wiring loom, slip fees more costs, etc, etc... mate its a nightmare then you find something nasty that will need sorting before you can get it all finished... even more fees and hidden expense... Stick with what you have or you would be better selling and buying what you want already sorted... trust me..... a bloke i know set out to change his engine he already owned the engine he was going to use and he still ended up spending $13,000.00 NZD (6339.38 GBP) and ended up selling to pay the bill... Bugger! of coarse if you know a mate of a mate that can sort it cheap and do the job ok then good on ya, give it a go... I'll pray for you

what about fitting a bladder... cheaper than chasing dry rot from your fresh water leak...

ok, that makes sense now i think about it, theres got to be some sort of flow just to keep things going in the right direction...

oh ok... you are probably right... "trying to find a solution to a problem that doesn't exist."... But when the thermostat is shut when the engine is cold there is no water movement through the manifold until the thermostat opens @88 degrees... I guess the water in the manifold wont boil while its waiting to heat up and the thermostat to open so no worries then...(even though theres not a lot of water in there) I was worried that, that small amount may heat up quicker than the engine, boil and turn to steam and the pressure might pop a hole in the manifold or something nasty... anyway just a thought...

Hi... Ive had 2 of the Honda Eu20i gennys.. 1 has 5700hrs on it and the back up has over 7000hrs... incredible eh... My son is a Honda mechanic and he recommended them to me over 15 years ago as I need portable energy for my business I just had a new carburetor and valve grind done to the 5700hr one as it was running a little rich,,.. Both still start on the second pull..

You know how you come up with brilliant ideas that may or may not turn out to be so brilliant after all... When I set up my BMC marine engine i was worried using a closed cooling system might lead to cooling water trapped in the manifold boiling and causing a fuss, so as I had a few parts lying round and came up with this bright idea... just wondering what people think of the theory if boiling to steam is possible inside the manifold water jacket of the closed circuit cooling system or will the thermostat open before any problem...

... Ive just remembered the box was changed from my original engine so the box has been changed and by a mechanic who possibly damaged the seal as he put it back together (I found out from his boss that he was an experienced truck mechanic but new to marine engines... Bugger ) it was so long ago now (a couple of years or a bit more) I forgot. Thats why I didnt want to mess with it to much as I don't understand the planetary gear thing very well and dont know anyone that does.... He charged so much it led me to believe it must have been a really difficult and specialist job..

once I sus out just whats actually happening... this might be an option,, (I just want to go fishing ffs... lol) I have a second box here at home so can do some practise runs on dismantling with out having to drive the 70km to the boat every day and one box has the bolts already changed so I will do the same.. great idea thanks

yes I see... so if it could have previously had EP in the reversing box that had leaked through the intermediate plate seal and now the new SAE20 that is leaking through has caused the the old oil to flow confusing the new leak with the smell of the EP... it is still that thick slippery stinky oil that the ep usually is in the bilge though.. exactly the same consistency and look as what overflowed from the bung Right... on with sorting the intermediate plate seal... thanks Tony Man I hope I have your luck.. and yes I have been a little out front on this one as it was only a couple of hours running before I noticed it.. so true.. I'm lucky you fellers put up with me thats for sure.. maybe someone else will gain from my posts if there is still anyone that needs this olde information left.. I know we have covered the subjects pretty deeply so the infos good