bizzard

My boats electrics are simple, no massive inverter ect, so I've just chucked out my last hefty 110 amp battery. I know have a bank of 30 amp Yuasa batteries all connected togethe. Gone are the days of humping those big bas---ds about. The beauty of small batteries is that if a cell fails in one thats the only one you need to relace=cheap and light weight.

The two tapers might not be accurately matched so slipping. Remove it and paint the male taper with engineers Blue and swing it back and forth for a minute and check for full contact. If not they could be re- ground together with valve grinding paste, swinging the tiller back and forth for a day or two checking regularly.

T'would need more power goin uphill than downhill.

A bit like my car insurance which is RAC online. I had to print out my own paper copy of the certificate.

I made mine. Champagne bottle with a half blown up balloon inside with a Tee piece araldited into the neck for the pipes.

No need really it's not a spin on filter.

It's usually the large thin O ring at the top of the first 296 filter unit that can give trouble. It's a knack, making sure the filter canister is not bulking onto the metal suround instead of snugly onto the sealing 0 ring in the circular slot. Nip the bolt up to not quite tight and gently turn the canister by hand making sure it's seated on the o ring before fully tightening. If it's not seated properly it will obviousely draw in air when you pump the pump on the engine. Obviousely the large thicker 0 ring goes at the bottom of the filter.

Or throttle cable has bust or come disconnected and will only tick over, fore and aft gears on the control lever still working ok I suppose.

A home for the shells shouldn't be more than 39 steps away.

Until the summer use Capt Tollys creeping crack cure, when dry run beads of it along the top edge of the frame. You'll see it disapearing into any holes, keep feeding it until it stops disappearing.

Also on the Coventry Victor 14hp petrol engine which I once had, but direct drive with no reduction gear.

Ideally oxy acetylene is the best way to go. Small flame trained on one flat only of a nut which will heat and expand it very quickly enabling undoance. Paraffin is still one of the best penetrating oils.

WD40 is not much good as a lubricant, it's really a moisture dispersant and cleaner. Try squirting proper penetrating oil into it or even silicon spray. And try to keep it covered when not in use to stop rain getting into it.