bizzard

I reckon the brackets are there to try and prevent the stove roaring away from cold and heating up too fast and unequally the wafer thin cast iron body panels and top plate and cracking them. Morso have probably had loads of complaints and warranty claims over this. The doors seem quality though.

I don't wanna go to school today mum!, but you must Arthur, your the headmaster.

I picked up an enormous bag of funny shaped small spuds at Tesco's today for £1.

Cool white is bluey cold and gives me the shivers in the winter. Warm white is nicererererer. Note!!! in Bedazzleds add, Warm white or cool white LED'S

Here's a piped one. Don't what its output is though.

Indeed.

I think those are controlled electronically by the cars ECU so might not work. I've been out of the motor trade for some years now so not certain.

Keeping too close to silly cill markers and playing smart phones not paying attention. .

Easy to make one with a sheet of something like a sheet Hallite gasket material and a ball pein hammer, not thin paper. I'd use gasket sealer too like Hilomar blue.

Scientifically. Use a spirit level on the tank top to indicate roughly where any water will gather in the bottom of the tank, usually towards the back. Use it when poised in the position you will be working with the pump tube, if your an HGV and not a light van all the better, the water will gather more positively over towards the filler side where you would be working and be easier to suck out.

I thought this in my sail only days, before canal boats.

Dagenite batteries were one of the best. I used to get them along with other electrical bits and bobs from A.A.Goodings of Goodmayes. Smith Motors BMC, B/L main dealer Lucas counter for Lucas stuff, also in Goodmayes.

In the old days of motoring, the dynamo days, cars charged and discharged their batteries more gently. The starter motor, hooter and headlamps used the most power, although headlamps were normally only used for unlit roads, rarely on lit up roads, in fact if a car came towards you with headlamps blazing on a lit up road it was usual for the dazzled driver to flash them to turn them of, wasting the battery was the common saying. Nowadays it's one big horrid dazzle of headlamps, during broad daylight too.

Exactly. I've mentioned the silicone heat thing on here a few times, I get no response. I presume folk carry on buying the expensive rip off special? heat proof stuff. When I'm in a scientific mood I carry out simple experiments, The silicone one I think is in this thread, no need for loads of googling like most seem to do on here. Just think scientifically.

I don't think batteries, start batteries at any rate are anything like as good as they used to be when they had thicker ribbed casings and the exposed top cell connectors. I don't remember having to replace any of the batteries on my early vehicles, 1936 6v Ford Y type, 1954 Standard 8, series 1 80'' Land Rover. I and a girl friend and many friends held my 21st birthday party overnight in the depth of Epping forest, I drove the old Land Rover with everyone hanging on into it as far as possible, took it's battery off and carted it along with a bulb on a wire to a glade where we set up a battery record player and tent. To light the scene the old Land Rover battery ran a 21w indicator bulb on a wire dangling from a tree all night long, we sang songs all night and were raided by the police at about 5am, looking for drugs I expect, didn't find any , he, he,he. A ranger had found my old Land Rover, looking abbandoned. Despite it's battery powering that bulb all night long it started next day on the button. Dynamos on these old vehicles. I fitted an ancient 6v car valve wireless set in the Standard which was 12v, by tapping 6v off the top connectors, which had no adverse effect on the battery. Thems were the days.