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TNLI

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Foundry Arms Poole

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  • Occupation
    Ships pilot
  • Boat Name
    Elsie May
  • Boat Location
    Poole

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  1. I would have thought you would have a VHF, and some canal Hamsters have a 2m VHF rig. Yes I know many canal boats have keel cooling, as do I. Much better in ice, reliability and leak terms. If you can get 5G Internet then it should be possible to get TV through I player and a laptop.
  2. Steel is good, as contrary to popular belief you are less likely to be struck in a steel or alloy boat than a wood or plastic one. The only issue on any boat with lights and antennas is how the cables are installed. I use a small earthed coil around each cable that does no go through an alloy beam, and then on the antennas I've installed inline coax surge protector, (about a tenner each), They divert any central wire to earth when the voltage exceeds 240V through a small neon. On my main HF transceiver the ATU has 3 switched outputs, so I can isolate the backstay, or emergency twig to a dummy load. The separate HF transceiver is only connected to a longish twig through a 9:1 Balun that helps to isolate the system in direct strike terms. That also has a manual ATU with an additional inline surge protector. Never understood why a lot of boat designers, or owners think one bilge pump is enough. I've always fitted 2, BUT my present lifeboat has 3 main watertight bulkheads which complicate things in pump terms. Present plan is 6 auto pumps, 3 high level alarms, a small manual stirrup pump for the dingy, and a mobile 230V emergency pump for use when the gen set is running. It's unlikely that a canal boat will get holed, but engine hoses do split, so the bilge pump system should be capable of dealing with a missing engine or head hose. Alas they often are not. My own boat only had one 500 gals per hr pump when the previous owner let it sink. When you allow for pump to outlet and low voltage losses, the original pump was just about capable of dealing with any condensation during the winter.
  3. I moved into the 21st century, but only as regards keeping costs low and making sure my systems are as reliable as possible. Is your Canbused onboard systems management system lightning proof ?? or does that have to be updated through your Canbus wired Masterfallbackscotchlocks. Oddly enough when I started the hull up lifeboat project I'm smitten with, I did find several wires twisted together, and 2 batteries with a far Eastern name that the salvage chaps had dumped. The real cool part was the 2 small solar panels that looked great but both had blown diodes, probably from a nearby lightning bolt. It did not have a Faradays cage and although the hull is Al, the topsides and deck were made of chipboard and polyester glass coating, if it had suffered a direct strike I suspect it would have caught fire and sunk rather earlier than it finally sank due to a leak from an intake filter and an open engine sea cock. How many bilge pumps has your software been set for ??
  4. First of all it's a pity the OP wrote the post about unsealed lead acid cells, as it's fairly good. Most boaters seem to be buying cheap caravan deep cycle or car start batteries, both sealed. I've come across several cases where a sealed battery bank has been trashed by an add on alternator voltage controller, and even one where a solar panel regulator had failed. In design terms my own system has 5 solar panels feeding 4 sealed lead acid batteries, (2 start and 2 house with separate selectors). The aim of the system was to make sure that the failure of any one unit can not result in more than one battery being trashed due to an overvoltage. That does mean not selecting the Both position on one of the two selectors, but that's a banned position on any boat I've owned or skippered. I did look at the Travelpower idea and it seems good, BUT I plan to fit a small air cooled diesel gen set, as using the type of engine I have at low power settings is bad news. I'm familiar with Canbus wiring from car and truck systems, but real surprised to find it in boats, as one break in the loop and the entire system is toast. The KISS concept comes to mind about complex wiring of charge and engine systems.
  5. TNLI

    BMC 1.5 Crankshaft Bolt

    Still can't find a TB approved source of crank shafts and damper bearings, so if anyone knows where these parts can be found, apart from a scrap yard, please post it, just in case mine need to be replaced when they are inspected by the local experts. There is a good crankshaft inspection and repair company here, although no one in my area seems to have a Magnaflux crack detector.
  6. The Poly fuses cost 1.50 each and they are electronic and don't use heat just charge, BUT they take a while before they reset themselves. Not seen the ones in your link before, and I might buy a few as I do use that type of fuse holder. PSD-Fundamentals (seattleu.edu)
  7. My small gas torch can easily do the job, you just have to keep waving it around as it's a tad hotter than a heat gun. I do not have a heat gun, or even 230V power cable to my boat. My inverter would murder the battery if I even thought about using one, although they are the correct tool to use. When I build a boat, I use the same tools that I take with me, so using shore based tools makes no sense. That way if I have to repair the boat at sea or even up a canal, I will have the tools with me. The gas torch is a pain from the boat design point of view as I don't use gas bottles, but Butane is still heavier than air, so I will be making a very small drained and sealed gas locker at the very stern, just for the torch refills and bottles of acetone. I also use my little torch to pre heat a primus stove, rather than fiddling about with Meth's as a pre heater. poly fuse resettable | eBay (Lots of different stealers). I've ordered a pair of 2A ones to test, BUT they don't seem to make lower voltage ones, and I will need to read up on what they do if the voltage is below 16V. All the rage with the local Hamsters and cheaper than I thought they were. I found the type of cheap fuse I'm looking for: Resettable fuse - Wikipedia
  8. Yep, the first link says non crimp in the title, and then says crimp in the description, no wonder they had so many complaints. I've used the second type for some months, and they are real good. Although you could use a simple lighter, or expensive main heat gun, I just use a small gas torch made by Colour Works from kitchen craft, and that little gas torch is a real good one that you can refill from a normal lighter refill can. Oddly enough I didn't think they contained enough low temp solder and that the heat shrink part would burn through. I was wrong, they really do have enough solder and work very well, although I always use a secondary shrink wrap cover. They are now my standard way of connecting low power wires together. I'm looking for an electronic auto reset fuse at present, but forgot what they are called, so will ask a friend in the local Hamsters club.
  9. Thanks, I did not realise that it was not a sealed unit, but a bulb holder. I agree it's a nice panel and far cheaper than buying all the component parts separately, the 3 gauge instrument cluster costs just over 30 quid and includes a pair of senders that appears to be the same as those on the engine. It's not just the poor so called generic circuit diagram that is irritating to use, it's the lack of labels and in the case of the big red bulb, the need for a description of what it is and how it was wired. The unit was supplied with a big 12 pin plug, BUT as I need to intercept and change some of those wires, I binned. I never ever use plug and sockets unless they can't be avoided, as cheap non Gold plated ones corrode in a salty air very quickly, so I just either solder the wires, or use a new set of solder free sealed connectors that you just heat up. The low temp solder inside them melts, then the shrink wrap parts contracts sealing the twisted join in the wires. I then use normal shrink wrap to double insulate the join. Heat Shrink Solder Sleeves Electrical wire terminals non crimp connector Blue | eBay PS: Just an example as it's from a 90% only seller! Looks better and same type as I use: 300 Solder Seal Sleeve Heat Shrink Butt Wire Waterproof Connectors Terminals Set | eBay
  10. Thanks, I was thinking of that, as I have some thin alloy panels that I found in one of the lockers after the boat was salvaged, OFF TOPIC A BIT ASAP are having a 10% off sale and their Bosch spin on oil filters are cheap, part no 0 451 103 033, BUT if you find them on Fleabay and they are not boxed with a plastic cap over the filter, odds on they are another copy. If you check inside the filter, the media pleats should all be neat and straight. I think genuine Mahle made in Germany oil filters have zig zag pleats, if you use them. Fleabay and Amazingzone are both awash with copied everything. The consequence of using bad oil filters can be worse than using rejected Bulgarian base stock 15w40 in nice plastic can, (No additives as they are not cheap). If your BMC has been converted from a canister oil filter to a spin on one, it should have, (Don't forget that TB is the BMC expert), an oil pressure relief valve inside the block someplace. If it does not and was a late model, (Mine was used for the Ark's motor), spin on filter version, using a dodgy copied oil filter can be real fun, cos when you try and start it when it is seriously cold, the oil filters internal pressure relief valve should open for a short while bypassing the media part and preventing the oil pressure surging to a real high figure. If that valve is not included, it can split the filter open, or blow out the oil seal. I'm not an expert on oil pressure relief valves, so I might be slightly off about how that oil filter valve works. PS: Hope Santa can make you a nice new face for Christmas!
  11. TB start of first reply: The big red warning lamp. That type normally contains a 2.2W MES or MCB bulb and it is the exciter and no charge warning lamp. This is proven by one wire going to the alternator D+/exciter terminal of the alternator, The other wire comes from the ignition on/aux terminal of the "ignition" switch. On that panel,a s far as I can see, it is not a glow plug warning lamp because few. Why do you think it's an MCB (Miniature Circuit Breaker) ?? I did look in RS for a similar MES, but no luck. No luck finding the exact same bulb in RS: MES Bulbs | RS Components (rs-online.com)
  12. Business Contact Director Mr. Bill Bannister Contact Information Contact Bannister Phone: 01772 338970 Address UNIT 1A, Hecla Works, Mounsey Rd, Bamber Bridge, Preston PR5 6LS, UK Get Directions Business Description Bannister is located in Preston, Lancashire. This business is working in the following industry: Car repair. Name: Bannister Engaged in: Car repair Employees: 25-49 Sector: Automotive » Car repair Industry: Maintenance and repair of motor vehicles ISIC Codes 4520
  13. Most of the canal boats I've seen pictures of in this forum do not have a drip tray that covers the entire area from one engine bed to the other and from the front of the engine to the gearbox prop shaft coupling. Some of them had oil absorbing mats.
  14. Thanks, I was looking out for a stainless steel oven drip pan. I've got one but it's too small, as I found it in a small 2 ring & grill oven. I really need to find a large oven SS drip tray.
  15. Thanks for the reply and you have not read or understood my post, as I did point out which of the LED warning lights is probably for the glow plug relay, and it's definitely not the big red bulb. Also if you try and read my posts, you will notice that I have already fitted one pizza warning buzzer, and will be fitting another intermittent type next to it. The extra on-on switch was going to be used for a volume reduction resistor in the form of a cheap warning light, although I don't have any spare diodes at present, but they are very cheap. If I can find a cheap source of electronic auto reset fuses, I might consider buying one. The circuit diagram provided with the generic panel is very poor and uses non standard symbols, so like you I'm puzzled by some of them. But like most maritime mobile amateur radio, (Hamsters), operators, I do have a rough idea how to read a correct circuit diagram and build a transceiver just using a circuit diagram, (HF only, as I don't like using acid baths to make printed circuit boards), although it is now cheaper to buy a kit than to try buying all the parts. OFF TOPIC: If there are any HF Hamsters, (I don't have a 2m or UHF rig at present to try a moon bounce contact, but might get one if I retire to the Norfolk Broads etc), let me know sometime, or join in the Parkstone Hamsters Zoom meet on Friday evenings. PS: This is a clip of me not re building a old sunken lifeboat, (Central coffin berth, under the rescue deck), about a year ago, Cheers to all the impoverished DIY boaters!
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