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About starman

  • Birthday 11/18/1947

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  • Location
    Cruising the canals
  • Boat Name
    Glenfield No2

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  1. The rest of the system is all bandaged up so I’m a bit loathe to unwrap. The system comes off the manifold in a swept elbow similar bore to manifold IIRC then about 10in straight flexy about 21/2. In short the rest of it is bigger bore than the 8in of tailpipe. I’ve always been a bit wary of painting stainless … and of my metalworking skills
  2. Our DM2 exhaust is a bit of a one off. It comes off the manifold via the usual flexy pipe into the ‘silencer’ (just an open expansion box) then exits through the roof via a 2 inch internal diameter pipe. This has a sleeve so it can carry a 3in stack. It’s all a bit fussy but the chief question is - is that 2in bore outlet pipe large enough? Second question: does anyone make 3in stacks (not in stainless)? The MC ones are horribly cheap and flimsy.
  3. You did indeed Tony. It’s curiosity really about the coupling and whether (as i suspect) it’s a one-off or maybe a Les Allen speciality. It’s been replaced by what appear to be chunks of rubber or leather.
  4. Has anyone come across a driveshaft coupling like this one? It’s on our ‘80s Les Allen with DM2 & PRM150. it smacks to me of being a one-off - possibly put together out of a few bits around the yard. Reason for asking is that there’s play where circled between the tailshaft and centre shaft. Everything will have to come apart to investigate and maybe the coupling should go at this stage too.
  5. starman

    Ashby Canal

    We met up with a couple on a boat drawing 36” who’d made it to the end of the canal but admitted it was hard work in places but okay for the final 3-4 miles. We draw 30” and it was reasonably ok to Stoke Golding and horrible through the Babbington bends. We turned around and headed for an easier life. Now on the Coventry…where it’s almost as bad in spots!
  6. You can get ones with rechargeable batteries (or wear a head torch) 😉
  7. We have a gloomy galley with just a porthole each side and a central bulls eye in the ceiling . There’s also nowhere really for cooking condensation to escape except a badly placed mushroom. So I could replace the bulls eye with a solar vent and fit a roof prism either side. Or have a medium size opening roof box made (in steel), lined and with double glazing. Can’t decide? Anyone got any thoughts?
  8. Personally I wouldn’t worry - We thought it so awful we only managed a couple of minutes before switching channels.
  9. Engine running and pumped stopped. Hooray and thanks. Volts reading 14.4 at engine and 14.1 at pump. PS to MtB and JiW I did check bilge and PRV last night too.
  10. Thanks all Will do the engine running test tomorrow and hopefully that will provide some answers.
  11. But is this connected to the pump not turning off?
  12. It says max 4.5a on the pump. Based on that the 12v Planet calculator said 0.5a. Now you’ve got me alarmed!
  13. I must admit it does baffle me: the cables are 4sq mm along 30ft which should give about .5v drop and the connectors are crimp at the fuse box and Wago at the pump. I’ll check it all tomorrow.
  14. Ive just got rid of a troublesome Seaflo water pump and fitted a new Sureflo as it has like for like connectors. Worked fine for a few days. Then we left the boat for a week, came back today, turned water back on, opened taps and the pump runs but won’t turn off! The water runs fine from all taps and I can’t find any trace of leaking anywhere. It’s been cold here but not cold enough to blow pipes. Baffles me. It’s a surecal calorifier with accumulator, expansion vessel, prv and non return valve. Any suggestions very gratefully received. This water system is jinxed!
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