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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

starman

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About starman

  • Birthday 11/18/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cruising the canals

Previous Fields

  • Boat Name
    Glenfield No2

Recent Profile Visitors

8737 profile views
  1. I’m not sure you’re right there - A S Taylor do a lot of it with a couple of pretty much dedicated specialist trucks. Likewise he uses craning companies all over.
  2. Another vote for Ray - he's been doing it for years, knows his stuff, all the best/cheapest locations for craning in and out.
  3. I guess you’ve been to the drainage engine museum at Prickwillow but if you haven’t it’s a must. Also take a walk through the village to see several interesting looking modern houses.
  4. We went through both in our 36” draft tug and it was a bit sticky in a couple of places plus shallow edges but basically no problem
  5. I found the system incredibly fiddly - trying to ease little brackets into the edges of the frame.
  6. I fitted a window of the type that uses clips from the inside. Afterwards I wished I'd bought one that screws from the outside!
  7. To be fair, virtually all kitchen cabinet carcasses are made from the cheapest chipboard and sit in some dark damp areas like behind the sink so they can and do rot. As does standard (brown) mdf. Water resistant (green) mdf is much more durable. But even the finest quality tree wood will rot in damp conditions as anyone with an old wooden floor in their house will likely testify.
  8. This was part of the point of my initial question - WBP is no longer an adequate definition for a plywood; in fact strictly speaking it’s not even an industry definition at all. There appear to be numerous different grades of WBP as well as some of dubious origins. Cut a sheet of ply now and you’ll likely expose voids and patches. Only decent birch ply seems immune (plus proper marine ply). i wouldn’t have a problem using water resistant mdf inside - I’ve used it with success in domestic bathrooms and kitchens but it’s heavy and doesn’t have much rigidity so I don’t want to risk it on my sloping cabin sides. Also I prefer the feel of wood, even painted.
  9. I’m not doing any external work, just lining out inside and building a back cabin. TBH if it gets wet enough inside to delaminate the ply I’ll be worried about more than having picked the wrong wood😱
  10. I need some birch ply for my interior refit but as there’s no ‘proper’ timber merchant near me I have to order some in. And I’m really not sure what to order - there seem to be variations on grades, on structure from birch outer skins only to all birch and obviously on price. Doesn’t help that the grade system seems to have changed too. Can someone steer me through - I want stuff that can be painted, and cut and shaped without exposing internal holes.
  11. In the old days WH Smith was the magazine library - a line of blokes standing reading their favourite mag while their missus went round the shops. Theb they did nasty tricks like putting mags in bags and now they’re behind the counter where the local newsagent used to keep his porn mags.
  12. Am I being unduly negative if I ask isn't it now effectively a modern boat that happens to have an old hull?
  13. I don’t disagree with you - I like the finish of drilling and plugging. But on this boat brass pins and screws have been used to fix the t&g cladding. And as it’s only 12mm thick it’s not really practicable to plug.
  14. I suppose buried in some very small print somewhere it says ‘microscopic layer of brass plate’. I’m still impressed at how well my 30 year old brass screws come out though. When using brass ones now I do usually pre-drill, drive in a Spax pozidrive with my power driver, remove and replace with hand driven slotted brass. Does that practice send me to cabinetmaker’s hell?
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