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About Ryeland

  • Birthday November 2

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  1. As you have changed the oil, have you turned off the valve on the sump pump? Mine can pass some oil if it's not turned off. And has the little cap on the pump outlet been replaced? Richard
  2. But you have to find a suitable bit of pipe for the valve with the flow in the upward direction, so the flap valve closes by gravity and stops the reverse flow. A flap valve is not the same as a (spring loaded) check valve. Richard
  3. I've never had to bleed my 38 after a filter change. Just crank it until it starts, then it will stop again. Crank it again, until it starts. repeat as required! Soon ends up running. Richard ETA Need to prime the filter with the manual pump on the engine first.
  4. I have heard today from someone who has had his prop with Crowthers during the lockdown, that they will not be reopening again. What sad news from such a good company. Richard
  5. I really would't use white undercoat. I think it won't give any depth to the red. Grey is usual undercoat colour for red, though I have been able to buy red undercoat before. Sorry can't remember what brand. Richard
  6. IIRC the correct tapping drill size is 4.2mm, 4.5 won't leave a lot of thread. Richard
  7. Veneer pins, pin hammer, then punch below surface and fill holes. The filler will never be the same colour, but with veneer pins the holes are so small it doesn't notice. Richard
  8. 25mm Celotex/Kingspan will bend quite well. Richard
  9. I did say BEFORE FITTING, so when you fit them the tape is already trimmed. Richard
  10. I just used tape that was a bit too wide, then ran a knife around the edges before fitting to give a clean edge. No problems in 10 years, and no need to mess around with sealant. I don't have any issue with moss etc growing on it. Richard
  11. 55hp is a huge engine to be working through a PRM120. For example Beta only fit it to the 38, not anything larger. Are you sure it's a 120? A photo would help. Richard
  12. I read somewhere, possibly in another thread here, that the pressure can be 300psi for a short time. Regarding positioning, the 'official ' position is on the manifold. The sump pump is moved along towards the rear, leaving room for the cooler. The easiest way would be to buy the cooler, bracket, and pipe to the engine from Beta, which would all easily fit on. Then you need to pipe back to the skin tank, and here you're on your own! Look on Ebay for silicone pre made bends. You need a U shape on the cooler, and probably a 90deg on the tank, plus hose and joiners to connect them together. Richard
  13. Those male- male adapters don't seal on the threads, but on a copper or bonded (Dowty) washer. I can't see that using PTFE tape should have caused the split though. I have just replaced the PRM120 gearbox in my own boat with a hydraulic PRM150, and the oil cooler was a bit of a nightmare. There is a bracket for the cooler, hydraulic connections, and worst of all diverting the skin tank return. Don't underestimate how long it takes! (And the cost). Richard
  14. Metric cable was introduced around 1970. I still have odd bits of imperial, in fact came across some 7/.029 this morning. More difficult to install neatly on the surface with clips than 2.5 as it was more flexible. Richard
  15. The fuse in the plug is to protect the flexible cable attached to it. The ring main cables, two each rated at roughly 20A, are protected by the single 30A or 32A fuse or circuit breaker in the consumer unit. Richard
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