Ryeland

When I fitted a Gulper a couple of years ago, it had a separate control wire which doesn't carry the full pump current. It is for their water detector switch but is OK with a manual switch as well. Richard

We were going to moor there a few weeks ago, but were warned by a moorer opposite that this had happened before. The glass should be replaceable, getting the frame out may be the hard part.

Nine people in high vis standing by the lock this morning, hopefully some of them will finish the work today. Richard

I had the same experience, apart from the leak not starting suddenly. I replaced the shaft bearing, a rubber cutlass type in my case, prop shaft and seal in a few hours with a single day pull out on Stafford Boat Club slipway. And yes, moving the prop shaft slightly gave a temporary improvement. Richard

Open today, asked the workers whether they intended to close it later in the week, they said 'no'. Minor annoyance that one of the top paddles was fenced off for no apparent reason, very difficult to make a level and open the top gate. Needed four people! Richard

I have a Volvo Penta seal very similar to the RMTA one, but no hose. Same as Jen-in-wellies. A cloth tied round the shaft stops enough water to allow the gland to be loosened, and the shaft to be inspected. I found the gland had worn grooves in the shaft, admittedly after several thousand hours. A slight movement of the shaft in the coupling improved leakage temporarily. I ended up replacing the shaft, cutless bearing and gland on a one day slipway pull out at Stafford Boat Club. If the prop shaft can be slid back far enough without fouling the rudder, just the gland could easily be replaced with a cloth round the shaft. My new gland came with a sleeve to allow it to be easily slid onto the shaft without damaging the seal lips. The silicone grease really needs injecting between the two seal lips. A very fine tube on a syringe with an angle cut on the end allows the end of the tube to be manoeuvred past the front seal lip. Probably not a problem on the RMTA gland with the grease access on the top. Richard

Yes, I've already noted it Richard

I have a PRM120 d2 which you are welcome to have if it's any use to you. Ahead clutches gone but otherwise OK. Located near Gloucester or could take to Hatherton marina in the next week. Richard

I found that the way to solve the problem was dual vents, one at each end of the tank. These provide an air flow through the tank, which encourages aerobic bacteria. They break down the contents. Anaerobic bacteria cause the smells. I just use bio washing liquid pods, two after a pump out. Richard

Beware, I suspect that the Dyson power supply is in fact a lithium charger, and replacing it with any old 26v psu wouldn't do the battery any good. My Dyson charges happily during our cruising time with the inverter on. Richard

What made the biggest difference for me was to seal the edge of the engine cover board when it is down by a strip of butyl rubber foam. Richard

All my Caldwell windows are fitted with m4 countersunk head brass machine screws into drilled and tapped holes. Takes a bit longer but makes a good job. You can nip them up easily if any leaks occur due to the butyl rubber strip losing it's 'springyness'. Richard

Teddesley do have a crane. Richard ETA the name of the company is Bourne Boat Builders

If its a Caldwells window they don't hold stock glass, and its a long way to Wigan! The last time it happened to me, Calwells gave me the exact dimensions, and a local supplier made the new glass in a couple of days. Richard