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About Ryeland

  • Birthday November 2

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  1. I read somewhere, possibly in another thread here, that the pressure can be 300psi for a short time. Regarding positioning, the 'official ' position is on the manifold. The sump pump is moved along towards the rear, leaving room for the cooler. The easiest way would be to buy the cooler, bracket, and pipe to the engine from Beta, which would all easily fit on. Then you need to pipe back to the skin tank, and here you're on your own! Look on Ebay for silicone pre made bends. You need a U shape on the cooler, and probably a 90deg on the tank, plus hose and joiners to connect them together. Richard
  2. Those male- male adapters don't seal on the threads, but on a copper or bonded (Dowty) washer. I can't see that using PTFE tape should have caused the split though. I have just replaced the PRM120 gearbox in my own boat with a hydraulic PRM150, and the oil cooler was a bit of a nightmare. There is a bracket for the cooler, hydraulic connections, and worst of all diverting the skin tank return. Don't underestimate how long it takes! (And the cost). Richard
  3. Metric cable was introduced around 1970. I still have odd bits of imperial, in fact came across some 7/.029 this morning. More difficult to install neatly on the surface with clips than 2.5 as it was more flexible. Richard
  4. The fuse in the plug is to protect the flexible cable attached to it. The ring main cables, two each rated at roughly 20A, are protected by the single 30A or 32A fuse or circuit breaker in the consumer unit. Richard
  5. I've had recent problems with brass screws corroded stuck in my windows. I've found that I can loosen them enough to use a screwdriver by hitting them quite firmly using a flat punch. It seems to break the corrosion. Then wiggle them both ways with a screwdriver and gradually work them out. Yours look like Posidrive heads. Make sure you have a good, preferably new Posidrive screwdriver, NOT a Phillips one. Richard
  6. How about connecting the pipes to the opposite sides of the pump, disconnect the old output pipe and put it in a container of clean water. The pump should then clean out the pipe. Richard
  7. A couple of small magnets with screw holes (eBay) will hold the bottom rail as long as it is steel. Richard
  8. They have been M3.5 for the last 40 years or so. 4BA before that. Richard
  9. You can put permanent bends (curves) in 15mm plastic pipe using a heat gun or boiling water to heat the pipe. Bend it round something like a big paint tin and secure the ends until it has cooled down. It will relax a bit but not too much. I don't think that flexible are designed for constant high temperature use. If you do use them try and get the ones with 13mm bore. Many are much smaller bore. Richard
  10. When we took our 58ft up to Ripon, we met a 60ft coming down the locks backwards as they didn't fit forwards! Richard
  11. That's just reminded me that I used one of these for my cooker top. May be useful for the OP. Toolstation 44251. Richard
  12. I've had Treadmaster for 11 years now on top of paint with no problem. It is however the plain type not self adhesive, fixed down with a high quality clear paintable sealant, probably polyurethane. I forget now what it was, but it was removable when wet with white spirit, so easy to form a nice fillet seal around the edges which helps to keep the water out. Richard
  13. I had my shell at home, outside my workshop and store. I spent 5 months say 6 days a week to get it to a basic stage of completion, still lots of trim to be fitted, no stove etc. I too spent lots of time thinking about how to do things. Richard
  14. Another vote for this style of Dahon. I've converted mine to electric as well. Obviously more difficult to store but so much better to ride. Richard
  15. My mppt controller actually regulates the negative connection and the positive is just linked through. If this controller is the same, the panels are actually just connected straight to the batteries! Richard
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