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OldGoat

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OldGoat last won the day on March 20 2016

OldGoat had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Me- West Sussex, boat - Thames

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  • Boat Location
    Hurley on Thames

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  1. IME proper brass (which you probably can't get nowadays) shears and strips, almost just by looking at it - certainly for the modern stuff. For anything remotely 'mechanical' I use SS fixings - but then my boat is to use and not polish... Sorry. I DO take my hat off and dip my Ensign to those who chose to keep their boat immaculate. Perhaps I've been boating for too long.... No disrespec'
  2. As with many things - good design helps. I've seen raw water intakes which are an 1 1/4" tube with no mud box or even a filter. Mine is a girt big 6" x 6" with a mud trap and a Vetus filter on the engine side. Even when The Management managed to fill the former with fallen leaves (? why is the engine smoking a bit....) there was still enough flow to cool the engine and exhaust stack. There's very little fresh water in the system when at rest and plentof rogom for any ice (never had any) to expand. Easy enough to add some anti freeze via the filter if you're worried.... (Igave that up years ago)
  3. Yea! 'Fresh water' cooling is so much nicer and quieter than a tin resonator that cooks the engine bay. The former halos in cleaning the lock walls as well....
  4. Same here in my bricks and mortar... The silly thing is that I was cold at a temperature of 23 deg C - but normally in the winter that would be 'warm'. It shows you how one adjusts to higher temperatures and feels cold when 'normality' is restored!
  5. Note to self - prepare to be shot at.... My boat's a 60 footer on the Thames. I fitted a 50HP Beta with a PRM 260...... A 42HP would probably have done 'well enough' but Beta's pricing worked better with the larger base engine and I wanted the Sea-Power generator pack for a plan that never came to fruition. The PRM is a solid chunky bit of kit and it's taken a lot of hard work, whereas the 150 - I think - is a bit of a toy. In those days the 120 / 150 was only fitted to much smaller engines. You don't need ooddles of power on the Thames per se but it doesn't half help if you're caught out on 'Reds' or want to make a bit of progress when the River's on Yellows. Others will doubtless disagree....
  6. What an humongous collection of flags / ensigns / whatever flying from the NB eqivalent of a cross tree is called - Some of which are sewn - got to keep up doncha know.... Great to see the Jubilee "ensign" in use - keep it up, while other's standards are dropping
  7. The biggest stumbling block is that the O.H. either refuses to take the receiver, or if he/she does doesn't use it . Too much technology - shout / wave / see what happens... Really, boating should be chilled - throw away the gadgets and rely on hand signals and the position of other vessels - they'er the ones that cause problems - not you or your crew....
  8. It may be a silly comment - but a small amount of 'stuff' around the propellor can slow the boat down considreably. (There is no info: from the OP about his experiemce or boat or anything....)
  9. Don't pay a premium price for a "chuggy" enginine - especially as you may be 'forced' to rreplace it later - it's the little bits that break, especially the thrupple nuts..... If your needs are for modern electrical conveniences, then an inboard watercooled generator solves that - if you have the space. But they cost, factor that in.
  10. I take te above to mean that there's hardly ANY ballast left. To me that indicats that the boat is mebe under ballasted and certainly will sway somewhat - as others have indicated... Either retink the ballasting 'issue' or consider how you are going to add extra weight to steady the boat.
  11. You make your choice and pays yer money - there's a risk with everything, especially in a specialist market... I have four inexpensive switches with a removable handle - and they've been OK for as long as I've had the boat. ? luck probably. Carry a spare.....
  12. I see a can of worms is now opening wide..... Methinks the only real solution is to:- Increase the alternator capacity Fit an alternator controller (if not already) Increase the battery capacity (what was it anyway?) Short term gains may be to set the inverter to low power mode, although I've found that some makes won't then start a fridge motor. In domestic terms you're not power hungry - in boating terms you are because - even with lots of battery capacity - charging them up is a pain if you're static (and don't use the engine to propel the boat if you're old enough the non boaty buzz word is "Ibasiac"
  13. If I read your initial post correctly - "fridge and freezer" - voltage not specified? These will consume a lot of power in a day, thut noit to be dismissed as 'only' I assume that the tv and router are 240v units? in themselves they are not power hungry, BUT if powered through an inverter, that fact will add quite considerably to the power draw. The fact that you have xxx watts of solar doesn't mean that it will actually produce xxx watts all the time.... That's why current wisdom suggests that you do a power audit...
  14. The trouble is that 'they' do sell - because most folks don't come on here and ask. Given that most of the comments are negative, I suspect that the OP may uitter some uncouth words and walk away from HERE. That would be a shame as it's poor value. Quite apart from the existing comments methinks that for a liveaboard without 'leccy and even a moderate demand for onboard power an SR2 is NOT a suitable generator of power, not the least that getting any 'power' out of that sort of engine is a very real challenge as the pulleys etc don't make for spinning an alternator very fast. Enough - My Management as summoned me for our evening repast...
  15. For the end-on moorings there's a railway line (don't know how busy it is..) within a few metres. However, an earlier post said "in the woods mooring" - thus a bit further away from the trains, and don't mind the overhanging trees.
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