Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

OldGoat

Member
  • Content count

    3,986
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

OldGoat last won the day on March 20 2016

OldGoat had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

184 Good

3 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Me- West Sussex, boat - Hurley on Thames

Previous Fields

  • Boat Location
    Hurley on Thames

Recent Profile Visitors

6,705 profile views
  1. Perhaps unkindly - but what DMR writes above is especially true. If the inside is rubbish, then it's most likely that the hull condition is worse. It would be great if I was wrong, but.... Before you spend any more cash, see if you can have a look under the floor in several places, if it's rusty and worse, if damp / wet - similarly if the exterior is rusty and pitted, then it's worth considering getting rid of it and start looking again . As horsey folks say "No foot, no horse". Your hull is the horse's foot. Tatty interior can be fixed, but often the hull can't - economically, that is.
  2. rookie question - propane tanks

    The 'normal size bottle for boats / caravans / why is 13Kg - If yours is the larger size 19Kg (not usual) then you must be a weight lifter 'cos they're heavy. Not being pedantic but the larger size are not always available. I have had two auto changeover valves and neither of them were 'reliable'. Either they didn't change over when one was empty or they changed when there was plenty of gas left. I now changeover manually - and that reminds me to buy a spare - when convenient to me and not when we're run our completely...
  3. A Thames Invasion for 2018

    I'm sure you'll be missed on the Thames. I'll alert the 'residents' Edit: Belay that - I see you already have - with a photo as well!
  4. Out again

    You got there first again... It takes a bit more effort to moor up with springs and keep the lines tight - most folks don't bother and whinge instead.
  5. Diesel fumes

    Simple solution for boats - make all diesel powered boats have wet exhausts - all the nasty stuff gets mixed with water and poisons the water instead....
  6. restoring lacquered brasswork

    Hmm - Actone - in the UK not easy with out legislation What colour is "Carmel" - mentioned twice?? Sometimes US pronunciation is understandable - but how do they get Carmel ('carml') for CARAMEL.....
  7. DM2 assistance required in Oxford

    I don't think / pretty certain that Osney Mills don't have diesel and it's a stiff walk round the roads to get to something that's only 100m away. (There used to he a way through from the lockside, but I think that's been blocked off. The nearest bulk fuel is at Abingdon (three hours downstream - or less when the River's flowing....) Assuming the tank you're mentioning is a day tank, surely you've a way of pumping fuel into it? Regardless of the above you'll still have at least a couple of days before the River comes off reds and with your low power you should really wait until the system is well into Yellows (The graduation scheme of flows is very imprecise) because there are at least a couple of places where you'll need a bet of 'welly' to avoid the stream dragging you where you don't want to go.
  8. DM2 assistance required in Oxford

    That's useful! When new folks come on here it's difficult to offer suggestions as 'we' don't know what their confidence and competences are. Each boat is different and we can't guess what's on a particular boat. There are no standards and to some extent each boat is unique. If the OP is not confident - then call somebody who has access to information - even if he isn't an expert on that device.
  9. DM2 assistance required in Oxford

    If you're not used to wielding spanners and worse (Birmingham Screwdrivers et al) it might be more sensible to call RCR - especially as the head layby / East Street moorings an where you are have good road access. The River is still on reds and with high flows - so you shouldn't be going anywhere yet - eve if the engine is working. I'm not conversant with my distant cousins engines, but any resolution is going to need undoing pipe joins, looking at fuel filters / fuel pumps etc.
  10. Deckhead lighting.Hello.

    Thanks for that I'll certainly do some experimenting. Certainly spoilt for choice!
  11. Deckhead lighting.Hello.

    Thank you Nightwatch for posing the question. I'm in the same position - eking out the last remaining spare(s) that I have. Marlec stopped making them years ago. The base frames are quite solid, but the bezel is a bit fiddly and the switch design - not good. There's not much power saving as the 16W DD lamp is quite efficient especially with the electronic high frequency (?) controller. I'm tempted to make you an offer for yours if you strip them out - but mine are 24v. Most of the links don't state the voltage - so I'm assuming they're 240V?
  12. Anchor fortress fx 23 with chain and rode

    Absolutely - Oh dear Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa.
  13. Where is this?

    Could it be at the upper end of Thrupp - near the church?
  14. Anchor fortress fx 23 with chain and rode

    It's cheaper because it's made of steel and not "special grade aluminium" - not cheap and nasty. You need some weight in an anchor on a NB because the boat is heavy and the anchor needs some mass behind it if it's to dig in. There was a discussion (on here ?) some time ago where it was said that hanging it off the stern was 'not a good idea'. If you think about it if you need to deploy it, the last thing you need is for the boat to turn round through 360 degrees forcibly before the anchor can take hold. How many 'real' boats do you see with the main anchor (or any) at the stern? Have a look at what the White Funnel Line do on their boats... I agree stowing an anchor in the bow area is a pain - but it's where is should be if you have a need.
  15. Anchor fortress fx 23 with chain and rode

    There was a discussion on here or perhaps another forum and the consensus there was that affixing to a T-stud was not a good idea (possibly as there were many ways of fixing it. Thus I decided to fix mine via a girt big bolt (such a long time ago - I think it was an eye bolt and shackle) through the cross member in the front deck. The chain and rode are in a side locker, so always ready to deploy. There's an interesting thread here on the general topic of anchors:- http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?489996-Fortress-Anchor&highlight=anchor The fortress is discussed but neither they or Danforth types are very good for gravelly bottoms for the Thames. Might slow you up when needed. Edit: I meant to say - slow you up when what you really wanted was for it to stop you! I've used mine twice on the Thames (not in anger) but just to have lunch in a side stream. On both occasions the anchor didn't grab. It's a 25 kilo Danforth and very heavy to retrieve. I also have a couple of foldkng anchors - just to steady the stern when at rest and they're not much use either.
×