Maudesmaster

I do have 2 120 amp alternators running off 70mm pulleys to a 14” crank pulley 1 of which I may change to a lesser one for starter batteries It’s a big learning curve however I would never take on a total fit out again 10 hour days and sleepless nights thank you all for your input will let you know how it’s all gone in September when hoping to launch Maud of the marshes

Thank you for all replies feeling a bit sad now I do have the bowman header tank on the cooling system which was all a bit of a mish mash as as the engine came from a fishing boat I had to buy a new thermostat housing and re route the pipe work so if all goes t!ts up I can re route through the heat exchanger on the bowman header tank, what would have been great if bowman made them for the Gardner would have been a manifold heat exchanger perhaps

Thank you for replies The boat has not been floated as yet, when I first installed and ran the engine with skin tanks full the pipe work to and from skin tanks after 1 hour running the was only luke warm whereas the exhaust was very hot My thinking was to try this idea out using only a small can with the flanges welded around the exhaust so water did not boil or cool the exhaust gasses too much I can modify the exhaust at a later date Can I tee into the pipe work so that when engine is running it heats the radiators

I will be heating boat and water via Eberspächer hydronic 5 to 5 radiators and 1 coil in calorifier but would also like to heat via an exhaust heat exchanger I have fabricated on the Gardner 3LW which will go to second coil in calorifier How can I link the Heat exchanger and Eberspächer to heat the Radiators and hot water

Thank you all there will be no joints and a gate valve both ends fusible head fire valves Toolstaion less than a fiver ?

Thank you all there will be no joints and a gate valve both ends

Does the BSS allow a 10 mm diesel feed copper tube to run alongside the heating pipes left of the two plastic pipes and right of the upstand in photograph clipped every 12” or so

Great thank you guys the shaft is 1 5/8” so about right then with everything else was a bit of a shock when fitting prop plenty of room behind prop for folding chairs etc Richard

On fitting Propeller to through shaft there is a gap between front of prop tapered face and aft face of through tube to stern gland of about 1 1/2” This is mid engined so shaft from Gear box to through shaft is bespoke and cannot be altered I can recut key way in shaft and chop off end So how much gab would be about correct between shaft and through tube Also would a flexible coupling be advisable between shafts thank you in advance Richard

Thank you all very much for your input Crowther marine were unable to recommend a prop due to limitation on swing Other company's were vague also As Daves is tried and tested although all criteria were not as my build I think I will go for the 21x19 Now has any one got one kicking around it their shed thinking T Norris as supplier as fairly local Thank you all again

Sorry for late reply I have been working away Thank you for your input it seems I have a lot to research ie 3 or 4 blade change gearbox (which is new) as I said before prop manufacturers seem a bit vague and 1 wouldn't advise at all Richard

Hi although not a Gardner question I would like to find out proper size for a new build 62' with 3LW AND 2:1 reduction box Distance between uxter plate and tiller Skeg is 24" I have had e mails from various companies who all seem a bit vague some would not advise at all, nearest being T Norris who advise either 22 X 16 or 20 X 17 or 18 i would really like to get this right first time so looking to you good folk for your experience Thank you Richard

I am fitting out a new build 62' with a 3 LW The top of the Skin tanks are about 4" below the centrifuge pump After around 1/2 hour running 3/400 rpm the pipe work from pump around block and head up to Borman header tank are warm Skin tanks feed and draw are cold Any thoughts on this thanks in advance

I replaced my CAV 24 volt starter with a 12 volt unit from /startermotoralternator.com but keeping the 24 volt very good company excellent service

I have a 3LW The original air intake was alumiminiun and had snapped halfway down I fabricated a new one in stainless I don't know how to post photos on here but it looks nice