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About jonesthenuke

  • Birthday 01/19/1959

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    Gardner 3LW

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  1. We had our boat blasted and epoxy coated. We took it to a dry dock to get new anodes fitted 4 years later (and other work) The man running the dock pressure washed the hull for us and was so surprised at the excellent condition of the hull that he was inviting other boat owners to have a look. Yes you get minor scrape areas to repair, but the vast majority was pristine. I consider this to be worthwhile given extended inspection periods and greatly reduced hull corrosion.
  2. As well as having a route, consider the heating required on a boat in winter for 3 months, especially as you could get iced in (though probably less likely with global warming). A solid fuel stove and plenty of smokeless coal would be good. If no solid fuel stove you may use a lot of gas, so consider where you will be able to buy refills. A trolley to collect fuel/gas would be useful. Also check routes of fuel boats for diesel, gas coal etc. Apologies if this is all obvious to you.
  3. I suggest checking what the immersion and the Eberspacher thermostats are set to. With a new boat you are reliant on them being set correctly during installation rather than fitted with whatever setting was left after manufacture.
  4. We have one of those works fine, but look at the price. When/if ours fails I will try a cheap solar pump.
  5. Have just found the details of our prop. 3LW, PRM500 with 1.5:1 ratio. The prop is 22 by 17. This works fine, though I would prefer a slower tickover speed when passing other boats.
  6. Gardner Marine quoted me 1500 pounds recently for a pump and cambox overhaul, a rather eye watering price ! There are cheaper places to go. Why are you opting to have this done when the issue may well be elsewhere? Is there another problem with the engine? The earlier post suggested the engine was responding OK. An optical tacho would confirm this.
  7. The engine may be responsive but does it run at full speed when demanded? It will be about 1500RPM but check the injection pump. Buy a cheap optical tacho and check Is is possible that the gearbox is slipping? Has it got enough oil in it? As its a PRM 500 has it got a trolling valve (I believe these are an option) Is everything else in the drive train properly secure and definitely not slipping? I ask this as the boat has only recently been launched and you may be looking for that kind of defect.
  8. We have a 57 foot boat with the same engine and IIRC a similar prop, but a 1.5 ratio box. If anything this makes the boat faster on tickover than I would like. Before altering the prop, are you getting the correct speed range from the engine? Is the current prop ok (not damaged or fouled).
  9. I refill the filter for our Dometic Vacuflush with activated carbon granules normally used in cooker hood filters. It works fine and costs peanuts in comparison to OEM price.
  10. The pools now have plenty of depth. The stretch of canal leading to is prone to being full of rubbish but we got into the pools in May this year with a draught of 2 feet 9 so you should be ok. I would not moor in the pools, the edges are probably too shallow and its not a great place for staying. I would moor at the pumphouse at the top of the locks, though its a bit noisy.
  11. I like the BCN, but the rubbish in the water makes it less easy for a novice? I am thinking of the less used sections by the way.
  12. We have two very small black accumulators on the top of the gearbox. My understanding is that it is an original PRM part. The boat was built about 2005.
  13. We have a Gardner 3LW with PRM 500 plus the soft shift unit. Gear engagement is almost unnoticeable.
  14. Wash in diesel and then get the last crud off with carb cleaner.
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