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Everything posted by OldGoat

  1. Try "Bearing Boys" (though it looks like a strange length...)
  2. Late to this topic - but, but, but. I suggest leaving the engine at tickover - first time in the day will produce belt squeal for quite a few minites if the engine speed is low. My solution is to run the engine at 14 - 1500 rpm for a few minutes until the initial battery demand is satisfied. I also turn my Adverc off for the 24v domestics as well.
  3. Mine does that and always had - for many years. Beta said it was not unusual (and not to fret) - I could always buy another one... At teast it gives a correct / believable value when the engine runs.. It's "not a good idea" to run the engine at slow tickover speed wneh starting to charge a battery that's somewhat discharged. I have a battery booster box-of-tricks which when engaged at low engine revs made all the belts slip - sooo I switch of off until the engine has warmed up - or run the engine at 1600 rpm for ten minutes or so until the high charge current has reduced. Canal boaty stuff will always be a compromise between cost and having to cobble automotive kit together without the availability of an advanced engine management system. On our boat this latter is me. Not too difficult to have a simple regime to do what a vehicle's sysyem woud anyway?
  4. There were a number of discussions one here (?) and an article in WW. AFAIR the conclusion was that the system at that time was not very reliable AND very expensive. IM untutored O hydraulics are great if the motors need to be remote from the power source and connected via a flexible hose (ie cranes, some agricultural devices). In a boat there's norrra lot that move (the main drive shaft is fixed as is a bow thruster. It's difficult enough finding mechanics who can fix conventional boat engines / drive - let alone anything hydraulic.....
  5. I haven't read the whole of this thread - to which there has been the usual conflicting array of different opinions... There was a 60 foot ish boat on the Pyrford sales site recently whose name was uncomfortably near the name of mine (my user ID gives a clue) if it's similar that jolly bad form, doncha know.... We spent the first 5 years of our cruising life on the Wey and to my mind it has more challenges than the Thames (heavy locks, acouple od side weirs, very low bridges and folks who shout 'slow down'.. Your first challenge on the Thames is the entrance from the Wey - the weir stream downstream of Shepperton Lock tend to push you toowards the bank AND there's an eddy from a bomb crater mid stream that can push you around as well - just be aware - don't panic. Make a wide loop to pick up Shepperton Lock's mooring. I use the lock island side side - as the control gear is on that side and the lockie is more inclined to help you with lines if he doesn't have to walk far. You should / must have lines at both ends of the boat. The Thames doesn't like centre lines only. It's a safety issue (not being b-minded) and the lockie's on a fizzer if something happens while you're under his / her control. Apart from being wider than a canal or the Wey is that the stream moves and that can push you around if you're in the wrong place. Otherwise it's probably the best cruising you'll find in the South. As you go above Oxford it's even more pleasant, though somewhat rural and you'll wonder why you would ever want to go on the canals.... edit: If you're going to use the River for more than just a transit, get a copy of The River Thames Book by Chris Cove-Smith. There are several for sale on Ebay at the moment. It's full of detail and good maps - even though it's a bit dated.
  6. Her's a picture of mine..... Not a very good view but - The shower head is mouted high on the cabin wall to the right in the picture. The shower curtain is long as well as wide and runs across the full depth of the batoroom and tucks away to the left in the picture. The arrangement means that the bath can be used as such or as a shower and enought room to dry oneself afrer a shower without a constant fight with the curtain. The bath can be used with our camping twin tub when needed.
  7. Go and discover parts of the canal system that you may never use - do the trip by canal. Wot John (above) said while I was typing!
  8. Try Velos insurance services
  9. Off the top - 'cos it's supper time and I'll be summoned soon - With a standard layout and a generous front deck you have a lot of space in which to move around and with a cratch cover in all seasons as well. Keep the 'services' engine / kitchen/ ablutions/ together and you'll make better use of space. (It's not what we'ver got - but if starting again.... 'only and idiot' if you don't sift the suggestions and ignore all the 'advice' . get a piece of paper and shetch the layout to some sor of scale . OTOH look at some of the boats on sale through the established brokers and see what sort of layouts other folks have used - and what space they have made use of (or not...)
  10. If you're very, very naughty, you can go to the end of the Sheepwash Channel and turn on the Thames or even worse hang a right and motor up towards Port Meadow - where you'll get a fab view of the dreaming spires / tall cranes of Oxenford. Plenty of room to turn and return to narrower waters...
  11. I only know of two - One that I crewed for a magazine article well back in the last century - and now you... We thought it would be a new and different experience but in practice it was a pain and was only used whe it rained. That was on a French river thus not a lot of change of direction. Even so there was no 'feel' in the handling... (Just saying)
  12. Has anyone thought aabout contacting Beta Marine? They offer a hybrid version of the 43 and 50 engines - and knowing them there will be a kit list of parts that they may be willing to sell you if you're very polite... There have been a lot of time wasters in the past... Have a look on their website where there's a lot of detail..
  13. We're giving up (and trying to sell - but we're on the Thames) because "the Crew" has lost confidence in working the locks, but won't drive). We've done over 30 years (hiring and owning) - thus not too many tears......
  14. Apologies for not answering the question BUT One of the disadvantages of the 'normal / default' layout is that's there is nowhere convenient to put the 'obligatory' fire. Having burnt my hand slightly on a boat were were viewing, I instantly decided that a normal layout as not for us - hence building a boat with a reverse layout. Putting a heater by the front door - apart from the above - wastes a lot of heat - warming the front doors and being fitted tightly agains the wall - even with a tiled surround will dry out the the woodwork in time. I suspect the damage in the ceiling is a result of not having a suitable roof collar available (I had a helluva job in finding an angled collar for our boat where the fire is placed in 'a more usual' location....
  15. quote: - Loddon - Patron 8.9k Gender:Not Telling Location:a far corner of little England Boat Name:Loddon Posted 13 minutes ago Its to cold in November to get blacking to stick properly I would wait until April. Norra lot of point in wasting money on blacking in the cold - It won't adhere properly It wont cure properly You'll have a helluva job applying it anyway... It's different if you can do it inside / under cover take head or waste your time and funds...
  16. It's worth watching Charles Sterling's Youtube discussion - It's some years old but the princples are the same. OK he's an acquired taste and has quite positive views about a lot of things. Having known the man since I met him at several Earl's Court boat shows many, many years ago - I realise hea means well and has a helluva lot of knowledge about battery technoligy. It's up to you - what you absorb and filter. It's a good guide...
  17. The above - absolutely... Nothing wrong with the Leoch style except -mebe - a bit over hyped to make them appear to be a 'cut above' the regular run of lead - acid batteries. I was luck to find a source of NiFe batteries when I fitted out many, many years ago. Fiendishly expensive even then. But they still work 20 years later. Bimble have written a 'paper' th the subject which might interest some - worth a read if nothing else. BTW - it might be worth looking at Battery Megastore or mebe Tayna, as both of them have a wide range of labels at various prices. My engine starter battery is now seven years old and still works and was one of their mid range offerings!
  18. What MtB above has writ..... On land based systems the heating coils are (AFAIK) are embedded in the cocrete floor - acting as a heat reservoir and I guess the systems run 24/7. My neighbour opposite me had a system installed and the next owner had to rip it out as it didn't kee the house warm.... Now very unfashionable - but were the only (affordable) and practical types available at the time were steel panel radiators - not hugely pretty but had to be large to heat the space. I painted them in cream to soften the visual aspect... The Ebersplutter type (Mikuni) heater pump circulates the hot water well and has worked for 20+ years without any problems.
  19. Some / many / mebe even - all systems that work well in a house / aren't translatable to a boat for technincal / practical reasons. In the OP's case - how about putting panel radiators under the gunnels where there is 4 inches or so of unisable space. If you don't mind having the metal panel visible it becomes a useful device for drying 'things'. You can't do that with underfloor or blown air heating. Another advantage of separate radiators is that you can control the heat of each unit (if installed 'properly') so that it's cool in the bedroom (etc). Looking at the two posts added before I had finished this - on thing makes me wonder - why use a stove to heat the whole boat via complicated water safety sten when - if you've designed the accommodatation 'properly' - the stove heats the daily living area which is all you need (?) to be comfortable (I was brought up with no heating in the bedrooms and My Management likes the bedroon cool cold.....
  20. How's about having an "airing cupboard" ? I fitted one with a large twin coil vertical Cauliflower and shelves above. The rising heat draws cool air from bolow the floor (thus ventillating it), continues on past the clothes and exits through the roof. Even though we're cruising boaters It works for us - smalls / shirts / jeans even very wet weather gear gets dried in reasonable time. I arranged a multistrand washing line on hooks (thus only in place on wash days) over the bath for light items if the airer is full! And of course the radiators are all large flat panel jobbies under the gunnel and a brass rail above each one from which to hang the washing Sometimes it pays to think sideways when planning and using a boat. All too often noewcomers to boating just slap in domestic equipment - where a bit of jiggling around with resources that require little extra energy will do the same job without any use of resources. I adapted the old slogan - Ibesiac - when designing the boat...
  21. Showing my ignorance but aren't most / all CANAL boat engine goearboxes zero degrees - otherwise they'd be scraping all the rubbish off the bottom edit: Aha I notice the OP is furrin' and presumably not on OUR canal system...
  22. Yes - I bought mine ages ago and they've changed the size and packaging as well. Its the oxygen release that does the job. The hospital stuff is better - but not available to retail. Blurry expesive anyway - tah'll put most folks off....
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