jessie

Thanks, that's great, made contact and looking promising😀

Good thinking, I'm regularly in Southport, Preston, and Garstang. Any info re offcut sellers most welcome.

Great, I feel like I'm on the right track. Where is the best place for buying 20-25mm flat bar in small pieces? Approached one place but they weren't interested in cutting small.

Not sure about after first 48 hours but they have been adjusted several times when the boat was serviced by an engineer i really trust to know his stuff. He told me to never tighten the top nuts and always the bottom ones so i'm pretty sure that hasn't happened. The difference in height between a new mount (to the top of the metal cup), and this one, is just 4mm. I know, it definitely wasn't quite that high when bought, but i think maybe 20mm shims all round should work ok.

This is one of the rear mount, they are both at the same height, there is a lot more room for upwards adjustment on the front mounts.

Wow, this thread has taught me a lot, and there is much more to this than i am likely to learn. One thing that confuses me is that my engine mounts look fine, the rubber isn't sticky, I can still fit my finger beneath the metal cup over the rubber, yet the engine is lower than it was, (or the prop shaft is higher) but cannot be adjusted higher as the bolts are at the top of the thread. So, i am looking at putting steel shims in to raise it so that a) it can be aligned correctly and 2) the bolts can be further down the threaded rod. But, how did it drop? it's mounted on steel.

Thanks Eeyore, I went back to look at the mounts again, and phoned a vetus dealer to check and they are indeed K75 mounts, the inverted metal cup over the rubber is slightly different on the different models.

Hi all, When choosing engine mounts do you assume that the capacity of each needs to be somewhere above 1/4 of the engine size as there are 4 mounts, but movement will add some weight occasionally? I have vetus 38hp engine weighing 185kg. The mounts currently in place appear to be k100, ie a capacity of 100kg (based on their dimensions), but in the spec for these mounts it says suitable for small engines upto 80hp. So, will the K100 mounts be ok? I can't say for certain that this is what is already fitted, it just looks like it.

I have the same engine, what size engine mounts were put on? i'm just about to replace mine. were they the Vetus K100? I agree they are reliable and the gear change clunks. Issue have experienced and been told is common to vetus engines is the cast engine feet that go between the engine and the flexible mounting sometimes crack due to vibration. I have replaced two in 17 years. It's worth just checking them when you do any other checks.

Thanks all, I bought them but not fitted, but it shouldn't be too difficult. @LadyGI was going to do it single handed but managed to cajole friend and family to help. Are you doing it this year?

Are nav lights compulsary on the Ribble link? I can't find anything in the skipper's guide about it, or on CRT website, or on these forums from a search. Sure I heard that they are but seems odd that it's not mentioned anywhere.

D'oh! I looked it up too. I'll do a test. Yes I'll check out where the nearest engineers suppliers is and use that next time. Hopefully next post will be look at my shiny new windows😀

Thanks so much for all the advice and suggestions, I've ordered some 5mm taps, and 3.3 drill bits and stainless steel machine screws with countersink heads. I realised there is thickness in the frame to allow for countersinking and if they are too big I'll have the tapped hole and can try a different head. There are currently no holes drilled in the doors, the windows came predrilled, so I can only tap the hole through the steel of the door but it's 4mm, so should hold. When I was ordering I couldn't see any of the flange head type, I have seen them since but the order is in now. It's really good that you all took the time to offer help, thanks again.

Thanks @Ryeland I'll have a look for some of those, I think that's what was used for the air vents covers iirc, sounds like the best option if the trim will go on, it's a very narrow channel

Would that work with the steel door being lined with 1 inch of wood? i'm not sure the rivet would have room to go through and flatten out on the inside of the door, or have i misunderstood what you mean? yeah, i think it would all have been a lot simpler if the doors weren't lined, but i can't remove the lining without wrecking it 🙄