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The Gravy Boater

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  1. Seconded. Call ahead for a service wash, was cheap as chips.
  2. I can attest that bow thrusters are entirely useless in a strong wind, with or without experience. They are of most use when reversing onto stuff, or straffing in calm weather.
  3. Actually this might be in the wrong place... maybe boat building and maintenance. Do what thou wilt.
  4. I have a Petit Godin. It's a tall cylyndrical stove. You set the fire via a door at the bottom, then feed it via a lid at the top that also features a hot plate. There are a few issues... The main chimney can be cleaned with a regular brush but there is a secondary flu between the top and the bottom of the tall cylindrical burning chamber... maybe two inches in diameter with (for reasons I cannot fathom) a bar across it that stops you stuffing a decent brush down it. I'm probably going to get a cable brush... that is, a brush with cables attached either side so you can floss it. Any other ideas or useful products you can recommend? The door at the bottom for setting the fire has an ornate panel with lots of little windows and for this reason, I think, they have not gone with glass... rather sheet mica or "isinglass" as it is sometimes called... it's some kind of mineral laminate that looks and feels like plastic... which is a bit alarming, although apparently it can take temperatures twice as high as the stove can kick out. When I cleaned the mica (with non-detergent soap as specified) a layer of laminate came off one of the small windows, so I think I maybe need to replace the sheet . Unfortunately the bolts sealing the whole assembly are properly seized up. The mica is not expensive, but it looks like you have to order it at a particular size and cannot cut it yourself. Any tips on unlocking this seized up assembly?
  5. The approach I'm interested in is to nuke the rust then make the exterior as hardy as possible. Wellard. This is my knockabout boat for the next year or two... maybe I'll want a shiny exterior on the next one, but I doubt it. Shiny boats are for marina folk.
  6. That is indeed helpful. Aside from having to replace some mouldering draft excluder and tuck some porthole seals back in my windows thankfullly appear to be in good condition. Not leaking at any rate and no signs of rust around them. The rust is confined to spots where the boat has been pranged over the years and some bits on the stern deck. The roof has some slight rust discolouration in places.
  7. The Llangollen was locked down when I was there... because Welsh people. Chose not to go through Brum this time as I wasn't in that mad a rush and I'm a relatively new solo boater... I can always do that in happier times. I wanted to be on the Grand Union come October to overwinter near my family but now I'm almost there I may do the Oxford first.
  8. Yes I'd heard. Maybe if they spent the tax revenue from alcohol sales on virtual learning...
  9. The doing would be more complicated than the undoing... so that would be a yes
  10. I've got as far as the Coventry. Got to do the Clifford Arms at Gt. Haywood at least to meet an old friend, my first pub since lockdown.
  11. Lots of interesting posts. The solution I finally went for involves steel-on-steel locking mechanisms inside and out for the side hatch, front and rear doors... the internal stuff takes a moment, can be done blindfolded (I've tried) and doesn't involve me carrying a key. Thanks all, job done
  12. Cheers I shall track all of that down! I imagined it would be impossible to colour match or even identify what was originally used. But I think I'll stick with one of the greens, mostly. I don't really care what it looks like this year so long as I have tackled the rust, added some new layers where they are needed and got rid of the personal branding. I do think this is by far the best option. Most scuffing obviously occurs at or below the gunnels so matching it with the hull is a no-brainer. I'd like to think I haven't added much myself, but there was this lock on the Shroppy that did a number on me. Yes I saw that vid myself. Unfortunately I have a semi trad with extraordinarily cramped engine access... and I'm not exactly from The Shire. Between the survey and final purchase a load of work was done on the engine including new engine mounts, so it must have been removed completely... if I had trusted the final outcome at the time I definitely would have paid to have my bay repainted. It's actually not bad at all yet but I knew it would be hell for me to get at it later on. We can but dream... or find a hobbit... or some sort of Mr Tickle character with extraordinarily long arms.
  13. Common sense and boating experience is way more useful than physical strength on the canals. It only requires physical strength when you make daft mistakes... moving in the wrong weather, accidentally leaving your boat in gear, not researching unfamiliar routes, not checking for stoppages, not communicating with other boaters etc.
  14. When I was a student, 25 years ago, we had a landlord who lived on a boat in a very posh marina. Whenever we called him about an issue with our house share he would say "I can't come now, I'm painting my boat!". When he did turn up he would do drunken DIY in the girl's rooms and ignore the rest of us. One time I called him about a leak in the bathroom that was pouring water through a light fitting in the kitchen... leaving a puddle. He turned up, looked at it, muttered unintelligibly and left... I can only assume he was used to a certain amount of bilge water in the galley. Anecdote aside... I'm painting my boat! My second hand boat (2009, one previous owner) is thankfully mostly rust free. The engine bilge is in pretty good nick but there is some rust where the boat has had knocks in the usual places (I include a couple of pictures) and a bit on the stern deck. There is also some branding (family names, roses and castles etc.) of a fairly ammeterish nature. When I bought it the boat had not been blacked for a few years... the anodes had perished but the survey was good. I had it blacked and new anodes affixed. I've painted any number of houses but I have zero experience of boat painting. My intention is to do some preventative anti-rust work and then - probably next year - rent a polytunnel and do a complete makeover. I've been told to use emery paper to attack the rust, then a zinc based primer, then a top coat in the colour of my choosing. So, questions... 1) Does the rust look bad enough that I'll need to power tool it, if so, with what? 2) Are all primers / rust treatments created equally? Recommendations? 3) What's the easiest way to match colours and should I even bother given these are just preventative measures. 4) Where can I find a hobbit to paint my engine bay when it needs doing in a few years
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