Mike H

I have one and guess what, never had to use it since purchase. A quick blip of reverse works for me. Been lucky so far. On a general note if you buy one they will need a good sharpening as they are delivered pretty blunt. Heath and Safety rears it's head again, can't trust an adult with a sharp object 😆🤣

Any CRT water point will easily supply the required pressure

A dremmel with a cutter disk on will cut small shackles very easily and is more controllable than an angle grinder or saw

A big thanks from me as well. Turned out we are in opposite ends of the same marina, small world. I'm glad eeyore explained the problem so eloquently as it had me stumped. As eeyore said plenty still to do but that is always the case, a bottomless bucket as the owner of my first boat said, nothing could be truer.

Mission not sucessful today. It was pouring down when at boat which is a wide hatch trad and I am reluctant to expose elecs to rain when removing elec access pabels

Back home at the moment so no manuals at hand but shore charging is via Sterling 1220 charger and solar by Victron MPPT 75/15 controller. Will be back with details tomorrow evening

Comment on Eeyore and Tony Brookes post : The wiring diagram came with the boat and this is the first time I have had to use it. I can see some of the wiring diagram seems to have errors. The Barrus diagram was in the boat manual Another point is I am the fourth owner of the boat and the wiring diagram would have been done when new so alterations may have been done over the years. I agree the wiring needs tracing and checking to see what corresponds to the wiring diagram. I will do this. I agree the wiring is complicated with a Sterling alternator controller and both a Smartbank and Smartguage. I don't see the need for both. On a more general note thanks to everyone who is providing imput to solve this

This is correct, a mechanical switch fault could cause all manner of wrong internal connections. Running with original BS Switch at the moment which is very 'graunchy' when turning from 'off'to 'ignition' with very little spring pressure evident on the key turn The overcharging only occured with the Durite switch fitted. Voltages now running at 13v with engine off and 14v with engine running so thats OK As I said now just waiting for new BS switch

I am waiting for a brand new BS ignition switch in the hope this solves the problem. If this does not do it I will wave the white flag and call in a marine sparky. Anyone in the area of Great Haywood Junction that would be interested in a job DM me.

Neither can I. Shore power goes through 3 way selector switch through AC trip/isolate unit and also check circuit with lights that AC is on and polarity ok then to Sterling 30 amp charger. No error lights on the charger so that is functioning correctly I also can't understand why BS ignition switch is internally wired live from T30 to T83 when my boat elec diag and the official BS diagram do not show any live connection

No, it's a BS 1552 3cyl direct injection so no heater needed. Starts first time every time !!

Ok right here we go. I have attached below my wiring diagram if anyone is interested in looking what is connected. The rest of the diagram to the right is 'house' wiring and is not relevant to the issue. As far as I am concerned now all is fine and I have established that a Durite replacement ignition switch is not suitable for my boat, as to why I will let others discuss.

No, because it was on shore powef as well at the time.

I understand the ideas regarding the alternator/ regulator/rectifier overcharging but the problem occured only with an INCORRECT IGNITION SWITCH FITTED, the engine off, boat in marina on shore power and 200w of solar on the roof. This would seem to rule out a fauly alternator which would only overcharge when engine running? or am I missing something? Basically I am trying to replace an intermitantly working BS ignition switch with a new one. It was the incorrect Durite switch which caused overcharge. So change back to the original wonky BS switch all is well again with battery voltages now back to normal. So it is probable we do not have a fault other than trying to use the wrong switch (Durite) This leads back to previous posts in this thread with posts discussing why you can't use a non BS switch and we are back at square one !! We have owned the boat for nearly two years with no overcharging or electrical issues. Out of interest I will add my boats wiring diagram later to see if that helps a better person than me, I am a reasonably competent amateur, to understand what the switches are doing.

Ok I have checked the difference between the switches and it is terminal 83. With the BS switch there is continuity to 83 from 30 even with the ignition off. With the Durite switch there is no continuity to any terminal with switch off. Now I need to check where 83 is connected to. I think they are to the warning lights and rev counter. I need to double check this when at the boat tomorrow. I know 75 runs to the split charge so no nearer why it should overcharge with the Durite switch fitted.