reg

I got my email 1 hour later and then another one not long after, which ain't right. Only replied to one. Looks like a system under stress.

Growing up with both a mining and shipbuilding background Thatcher was a never will be a favourite of mine however I believe. . Thatcher would never of held the referendum . If she had inherited the same problem as May then I suspect by now a solution would be in place, even if I didn't like it.

As someone who worked on a banks IT millennium team, set up to deal with this problem specifically,helping to prevent this millennium meltdown I would point out that a great deal of dedicated work and effort was done by some very knowledgeable and intelligent people. The fact that there was no fallout from this problem was down to many such teams across the country putting in a significant amount of work to make that the case. So yes I remember the millennium non bug well. Good job people who understood the problem and the solution worked on it.

Exactly like mine just under a different brand name. Mine is a TONOR 8800A Noticed the same kit appears online under multiple brand names. Good piece of kit I find they are very sensitive and getting them set to the correct sensitivity level takes a little practice and does require warming up for about 30secs. To calibrate mine I let a little gas escape from a stove ring, switch the stove ring off, test and adjust the 8800A until it sets of the alarm when near the little pool of lpg on the stove top, move the sensor away a couple of inches so that the alarm goes off. Repeat this until happy it is calibrated correctly. One thing I would strongly recommend is to ensure the batteries are fresh and at full capacity and always remove the batteries when not in use. From experience I can say NONE FRESH BATTERIES CAN GIVE FALSE READINGS. Overall the 8800A was better quality than I expected.

Which proves the point about ecofans all gauges read zero.

Had similar with a transit van, received an aggressive letter demanding over £2700 for non payment of London charges. Turned out that someone was using false plates to avoid the central London charges.

So are CRT saying that if you have a home mooring you are not allowed to go cruising? Simple question to ask them. Be interesting to see their reply.

Now Now don't start spreading rumours. Glad you got sorted, hope it stays OK.

Sorry missed your post when I was replying to an earlier one. If what you say is correct, and I have no reason to doubt it, then that makes sense to me. I personally would be happy to use my current 50291-1 standard monitor until such time that it requires replacing I. E november 2022.

A point I was about to make. To quote from BS EN 50291-2:2010 "This part two defines the additional testing needed, and the expected performance criteria for carbon monoxide detectors which are likely to be subject to movement or vibration during their lifespan. In general terms it can be considered that alarms conforming to this standard are more robust than alarms simply carrying the part one kitemark." I would argue that the conditions may apply to a traveling caravan, Sea going boat or a smaller fibreglass/wooden boat. But a Narrowboat on the inland canal system is 99.99% of the time in a pretty stable position. Mine is currently 5021-1 standard and is good until November 2022, bought in good faith from a marine supplier. I personally would be happy to use this until that date. I have a bss due so will be interested to see what the examiner says. I suspect some examiners may say that it must meet the - 2 simply because they could not then be accused of being wrong, I'll just have to see.

Uncomfortable as it may be to some NarrowboatWorld have a decent article on this subject http://narrowboatworld.com/10753-do-i-need-a-bubble-tester Personally I'm not a fan of the bubble tester I much prefer to have a full pressure test carried out together with periodic checks, using a gas detector, at all of the connections and pipes.

True had that happen a couple of months ago lost a full cylinder over a couple of days. Unfortunately it was my last cylinder so apart from wasting best part of £40 it was very inconvenient. Did take the opportunity to replace the tails as the lines were out of date. Now check connection after each change over using a gas detector/sniffer bought for circa £28 off ebay, useful bit of kit we'll worth having. Periodically I test all connections always using fresh alkaline batteries, the batteries I then use for my head torch.

Another old 2005 thread mentioning this 110a problem. Note the comment from Gary Peacock who was a boat builder who regularly posted on this forum in the past. " Very common problem two or three years ago they have now changed alternator manafacturer."

BARRUS SHIRE 110A Alternator known problem. If you have the the original Barrus domestic 110a alternator and this us the one giving the problems then it is worth knowing that there were significant problems with these and Barrus stopped using them some time ago. The alternators were made in South America (Argentina I believe) and were totaly unreliable, so much so that the company went bust and no after market company chose to provide a after market copy of the design. Its a long history but effectively until I replaced mine with a generic 90a alternator I had nothing but problems with fan belts constantly breaking. As others have pointed out the 110a amp belt is shared with the water pump so your 2 problems are related, possibly, to this badly designed 110a alternator. First check is to see if you have this 110a Barrus alternator, if so then I would strongly recommend replacing it with a different generic alternator. Here's and old thread that covers some of the history of this problem

Just about to post the same thing. They do seem to be pretty friendly when it comes to helping each other out in this sort of situation.