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Everything posted by reg

  1. And remember that If you intend to liveaboard you will have to fit all of your possessions aboard. Usable space rapidly decreases once you move onboard.
  2. I'm actually going through a similar thought process, installed 55 ltr Surecal, build enclosure around it, 16 years later struggling with access. Like you now considering a smaller calorifier so that access to pipes easier.
  3. Absolutely essential to get the correct profile befor applying Zinga. I chatted to someone a few years ago who's contractor decided to save a few pounds by switching to a cheaper medium without informing them which did not meet the required specification for the Zinga, unfortunately the Zinga did not hold. You can prepare the surface for Zinga repairs with a Tercoo tool, this gives the correct profile and when looked at very closely you can make out the small pits in the surface. Maybe the OP may like to do a video at some point on different preparations for different applications, just a thought for the future. Anyway welcome to the forum.
  4. No the prices I quoted were for the previously pictured Bush and nipple. Just checked back on post, thought you were replying to those quoted prices for nipple and Bush. I take it now that you were referring to the cost of the PRV @ £8 in which case that seems quite reasonable.
  5. Just out of interest I have just removed mine Circa 2005 and it does not have a NRV at that point or elsewhere. The one in the pic looks like mine so may not have an NRV. Not sure if NRV have always been included in Surecals, maybe they were introduced at a later date?
  6. I know, unfortunately appears there is non in stock. I must admit I've been very happy with the Screwfix quality and prices.
  7. Ouch that's a painfull difference in price. Screwfix was £1.29 and £1.34 Inc for Nipple and Bush respectively However I appreciate that when it comes to plumbing it sometimes a question of needs must.
  8. Thanks for that write up, very useful. I have heard others suggest pipe compound but maybe you could tell me Is it difficult to undo the joint afterwards? That's my main concern with using it as I'm already working blind and at full stretch fitting it together so have a preference for ease of disassembly. Mind you a gaurernteed leak proof joint would override that preference methinks.
  9. Here are the parts (From Screwfix) Must admit I wasn't aware of running brass nipples, knowledge gained albeit belatedly.
  10. I have fiited a new 3 bar PRV for my calorifier. In order to fit it I had to use a 3/4 inch to 1/2 reducer and then a 1/2 male/male nipple in order to fit it. I have done a test assembly to ensure everything fits mechanically, this was OK. I now need to do a final assembly but have read conflicting advice on the best practice for sealing the mating surfaces. So my question is basically what is the best practice for these sort of connections? .Flat washer? If so what material? .Ptfe tape? I've read some comments saying no to this. .Liquid PTFE? .One of the above or a combination? Again looking for best practice on this. Appreciate any help, thanks.
  11. ...... Removed irrelevant comment.
  12. Flexible panel life previously discussed here My experience with Unisolar panels is very positive, these are the high quality flexible panels. Unfortunately the company went into liquidation a good few years ago. I was very fortunate to get 2 of the liquidated USA stock and a verY decent price. Midsummer recognised the gap in the market left by the liquidation and, in my opinion, admirably managed to track down the manufacturers and/or suppliers so that these would not be lost to the market. This was as I understand the genesis for the CIGS Panels. The only Downside I can see is the lower output per surface area this is more than mitigated by the lack of obstruction on the roof which is of great benefit when locking. My autocorrect seems to insist that they are also of benefit when licking. I have no evidence of this.
  13. This confirms the statement made here "... If the Zinga layer is sufficiently damaged to expose the base metal below, the steel would form a layer of surface rust but no corrosion would take place beneath it. In other words if the surface discolouration was removed the steel below would not be pitted or eroded. This is called "throw" and enables Zinga to protect bare metal up to 3 - 5mm or so away from where the coating ends...." From https://zinga-uk.com/zinga/how-zinga-works
  14. Then please feel free to refer to it as a paint I'm sure the world will carry on regardless. End of subject as far as I'm concerned.
  15. Follow the link I gave Zinga is an active zinc performance coating which works in conjunction with the metal beneath where as paints are only passive barriers.
  16. Thanks. I'll give the direct Zinga link again and part of their direct quote https://zinga-uk.com/zinga "BUT... Zinga is not a paint!" End of quote. I believe that a number of suppliers refer to it as paint even thought Zinga try to discourage it. In the real world think it is probably easier to just to refer to it as a paint when dealing with a customer rather than get into an involved discussion on what it actually is. Professionals will probably understand that it isn't a paint. for everyone else as long as the instructions are followed then thinking of it as a paint doesn't really matter.
  17. Do you have a source for this? I suspect it isn't from the Zinga site. Thanks
  18. I think you will find they are at great pains to show that it is not a paint. To quote directly, and using their own emphasis, from their site " Zinga is a unique form of corrosion protection because it provides both Active and Passive protection in a form that's as easy to apply as a paint... BUT... Zinga is not a paint! Zinga is an active zinc performance coating which works in conjunction with the metal beneath where as paints are only passive barriers. Regardless of how thick paints are applied, they remain as barriers. Once they are breached corrosion sets in immediately. Despite this significant difference Zinga is still often mistaken for a paint simply because it's liquid and comes in a tin. But there are other more subtle differences. For example it does not "skin over" in the tin because Zinga has an unlimited pot-life and it doesn't go "tacky" like a paint https://zinga-uk.com/zinga
  19. If you can afford the upfront capital costs then I would say it is well worth doing. Long term savings on repeated blackings and also, in my experience, no need for anodes so further savings there. Had mine out of the water after 6 years and found minimal cosmetic touch up required to the blacking. I would also argue that it adds value to the boat so even if you don't keep the boat you have still got value from doing it. It is absolutely essential that the Zinga is applied to a correctly prepared surface.
  20. I use a mix of all of the above. The only one missing from the list for me is Tom Sapeys Open Canal Map App
  21. Can I ask 1 What does a service entail? 2 Can I do it myself? 3 if no to 2 then can I do a partial service myself ? Edit to add Partial answering my own question. I found this potentially useful link to a pdf. https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11242/Servicing a Webasto Thermo Top C Diesel Boiler.pdf I hadn't tried this yet so can't really comment at this time on its accuracy.
  22. I find there is an acceptable level of cracking once it starts to reach an unacceptable level them only then will I consider replacing it. Yours appears to have a lower level of cracking if you replace it then very soon there is a strong possibility that the new one will also show some cracking. Obviously you are in charge if your own budget so it's your chose. Personally I think in 16 years of use I've only done, as far as I can remember, a full replacement once or maybe twice maximum. A tub of fire cement can save you a great deal of money over the years. Edit Found this link which gives you all the info https://www.stovespareparts.com/stove-maintenance-advice/check-the-fire-bricks Note this part "... Fire bricks only need replacing if damage to them begins to expose the stove's bodywork to flames. In severe cases of prolonged exposure this could permanently damage the stove by cracking a cast iron side panel or warping the steel bodywork. Where clay fire bricks are cracked their lifespan can be prolonged by filling the cracked joints with fire cement – this is perfectly acceptable practice and nearly all manufacturers recommend this...."
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