p6rob

After looking at lots of reviews online I bought a Creality CR10S Pro. It has its issues though. Setup is not as straightforward as they make out, getting the Y axis parallel to the hotbed was extremely difficult. Extremal temperature affects sensors, so does hotbed and nozzle temperature, so it can take a lot of time to setup between prints, this might be more because of where my printer is located in a garage, which gets pretty cold. It took a lot of faffing to figure this out and necessitated replacing the hotbed when it got gouged by the nozzle. I now set the bed and nozzle temperatu

Potentially if there's enough interest. Happy to share but it's not quite ready for general use and I'm not sure how much further to go with fettling it at the moment.

Tony, I took on board your comments yesterday and can assure you that it fits over the studs and the notch is within about 2mm of the pointer. Rob

Thanks. No it's not hollow on this version but I'll give that a go. The first trial was a bit of a tight fit and actually broke when I tried removing it from the drive gear, so was thinking of putting a cap head bolt down the centre. Freecad. No prior experience but have been watching lots of tutorials and although half the time I don't understand the terminology, I've so far managed to make a few parts for my pre war Armstrong Siddeley car and now this.

Still a work in progress but I have now got a usable printed timing tool for the 1500. To make it involved learning how to use CAD software which was an interesting lockdown distraction. It took about 9 hours to print in total, I'm sure the printer settings can be tweaked a bit to reduce that, perhaps that'll be the next lockdown project.

That's excellent Rob! What did you use to establish the proper angle between the master spline and the timing notch that you have on the outer disc? I see in the manual some mention of 208 deg but really not sure what that means. 208 degrees from the master spline? I was lucky enough to borrow a genuine universal timing tool once. The zero degree mark is in the centre of the master spline. So, yes its 208 degrees from the centre of the master spline.

Thank you, I did wonder but when I compared these figures to NA petrol engines that I have compression ratio and pressure data for they correlated, so there's some extra info needed for diesel engines? There is a master spline and reference marks so it shouldn't be possible to get the timing in the wrong position. The outer is still a work in progress but thank you for pointing that out. I'll make the changes for the next iteration which I'm working on now. Your comment has made me notice the outer wall is also too thick, so needs a few more tweaks.

I've been going through a similar process since my engine overheated when moored in a corner of a basin on a winter mooring, the shallow water and silt meant the skin tank wasn't effective, I changed the head gasket before Christmas but for many personal reasons it's taken until yesterday to actually get the engine to fire up albeit it was smoky, so I suspect more work is needed to get the timing right. On your engine double check the compression figures. The BMC 1.5 is a 23:1 compression ratio engine, so, according to Google, you multiply atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi at seal lev

Thanks for the warning. It is duly noted. Rob

I ran it on the stern with the exhaust facing over board and facing the wind flow which heads downstream from the boat. I also have carbon monoxide alarms both with lcd displays one near the stern and another just over halfway to the bow; so far neither has registered any carbon monoxide. The cheap generator was a waste of money. It lasted about 10 hours total running time over about a two weeks and now has no compression, so I've bought a Kipor suitcase generator to replace it.

If you can plug into mains, or take the batteries off the boat, a smart battery charger might breathe some life back into your batteries. I bought a 12amp Ring smart charger from Halfords which has a pretty good desulphation process. Takes about three days per battery though and there's no guarantee it'll work but I've had reasonable success so far. Also, if they're not sealed, there's some magic pills, 'Granville bat-aid', which, with a good charging, might help your batteries last a few more months. Rob

Just before Christmas I bought one of the generic German 3.5KW frame generators. It's rated as 96db, so not even close to silent. On the plus side, it has metal panels, so not a fully open frame and I've added some sound deadening, both rubber and foam which has quietened it down but added to the weight. I think the noise level is now less than my boat engine. It was cheap, only 160.00 new from a facebook advertiser and delivered within two hours of enquiring about it. It's needed some very specific positioning of the choke lever to get it to start and the exact position varie

I'm terrible at reversing but manage most of the time and seem to have less mishaps than people who rely on the bow thruster, especially when they find they've drained the BT battery before completing their manoeuvre and then have no clue how to recover the situation. One of the few places I need to wind and reverse is Cambrian Wharf. Sometimes things go really well and I seamlessly manage to wind the boat on a sixpence and reverse into one of the spaces without touching the sides, other boats or pontoon and step off, rope in hand like a pro. Other times the boat seems to curve all

If the batteries are fully charged, it sounds like voltage drop through too thin cables, or a high resistance connection. As a test, try running an extra pair of positive and negative cables from the battery to the heater. If it then runs, either make the new cables part of the install, with an inline fuse, or replace the existing ones with thicker cables. Rob