Jump to content


Patron Donate to Canal World
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by p6rob

  1. Deepest condolences to his family. Peter crewed with me on the 2018 BCN. A really nice, easy going guy.
  2. p6rob

    3d printed timing tool

    After looking at lots of reviews online I bought a Creality CR10S Pro. It has its issues though. Setup is not as straightforward as they make out, getting the Y axis parallel to the hotbed was extremely difficult. Extremal temperature affects sensors, so does hotbed and nozzle temperature, so it can take a lot of time to setup between prints, this might be more because of where my printer is located in a garage, which gets pretty cold. It took a lot of faffing to figure this out and necessitated replacing the hotbed when it got gouged by the nozzle. I now set the bed and nozzle temperatu
  3. p6rob

    3d printed timing tool

    Potentially if there's enough interest. Happy to share but it's not quite ready for general use and I'm not sure how much further to go with fettling it at the moment.
  4. p6rob

    3d printed timing tool

    Tony, I took on board your comments yesterday and can assure you that it fits over the studs and the notch is within about 2mm of the pointer. Rob
  5. p6rob

    3d printed timing tool

    Thanks. No it's not hollow on this version but I'll give that a go. The first trial was a bit of a tight fit and actually broke when I tried removing it from the drive gear, so was thinking of putting a cap head bolt down the centre. Freecad. No prior experience but have been watching lots of tutorials and although half the time I don't understand the terminology, I've so far managed to make a few parts for my pre war Armstrong Siddeley car and now this.
  6. Still a work in progress but I have now got a usable printed timing tool for the 1500. To make it involved learning how to use CAD software which was an interesting lockdown distraction. It took about 9 hours to print in total, I'm sure the printer settings can be tweaked a bit to reduce that, perhaps that'll be the next lockdown project.
  7. That's excellent Rob! What did you use to establish the proper angle between the master spline and the timing notch that you have on the outer disc? I see in the manual some mention of 208 deg but really not sure what that means. 208 degrees from the master spline? I was lucky enough to borrow a genuine universal timing tool once. The zero degree mark is in the centre of the master spline. So, yes its 208 degrees from the centre of the master spline.
  8. Thank you, I did wonder but when I compared these figures to NA petrol engines that I have compression ratio and pressure data for they correlated, so there's some extra info needed for diesel engines? There is a master spline and reference marks so it shouldn't be possible to get the timing in the wrong position. The outer is still a work in progress but thank you for pointing that out. I'll make the changes for the next iteration which I'm working on now. Your comment has made me notice the outer wall is also too thick, so needs a few more tweaks.
  9. I've been going through a similar process since my engine overheated when moored in a corner of a basin on a winter mooring, the shallow water and silt meant the skin tank wasn't effective, I changed the head gasket before Christmas but for many personal reasons it's taken until yesterday to actually get the engine to fire up albeit it was smoky, so I suspect more work is needed to get the timing right. On your engine double check the compression figures. The BMC 1.5 is a 23:1 compression ratio engine, so, according to Google, you multiply atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi at seal lev
  10. Thanks for the warning. It is duly noted. Rob
  11. I ran it on the stern with the exhaust facing over board and facing the wind flow which heads downstream from the boat. I also have carbon monoxide alarms both with lcd displays one near the stern and another just over halfway to the bow; so far neither has registered any carbon monoxide. The cheap generator was a waste of money. It lasted about 10 hours total running time over about a two weeks and now has no compression, so I've bought a Kipor suitcase generator to replace it.
  12. If you can plug into mains, or take the batteries off the boat, a smart battery charger might breathe some life back into your batteries. I bought a 12amp Ring smart charger from Halfords which has a pretty good desulphation process. Takes about three days per battery though and there's no guarantee it'll work but I've had reasonable success so far. Also, if they're not sealed, there's some magic pills, 'Granville bat-aid', which, with a good charging, might help your batteries last a few more months. Rob
  13. Just before Christmas I bought one of the generic German 3.5KW frame generators. It's rated as 96db, so not even close to silent. On the plus side, it has metal panels, so not a fully open frame and I've added some sound deadening, both rubber and foam which has quietened it down but added to the weight. I think the noise level is now less than my boat engine. It was cheap, only 160.00 new from a facebook advertiser and delivered within two hours of enquiring about it. It's needed some very specific positioning of the choke lever to get it to start and the exact position varie
  14. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  15. I'm terrible at reversing but manage most of the time and seem to have less mishaps than people who rely on the bow thruster, especially when they find they've drained the BT battery before completing their manoeuvre and then have no clue how to recover the situation. One of the few places I need to wind and reverse is Cambrian Wharf. Sometimes things go really well and I seamlessly manage to wind the boat on a sixpence and reverse into one of the spaces without touching the sides, other boats or pontoon and step off, rope in hand like a pro. Other times the boat seems to curve all
  16. If the batteries are fully charged, it sounds like voltage drop through too thin cables, or a high resistance connection. As a test, try running an extra pair of positive and negative cables from the battery to the heater. If it then runs, either make the new cables part of the install, with an inline fuse, or replace the existing ones with thicker cables. Rob
  17. As soon as I found out about them, I've only used goat chains or rings, except when we randomly tried tying up before the start of the 2018 BCN challenge somewhere with no rings or armco. I found my stakes, unused since 2011 but not the hammer which I hid sometime ago because my son had an annoying habit of hitting things with it. Peter X and I knocked the stakes in as best as possible with a 1" spanner iirc, so pretty badly, however they held all night with some passing traffic. Would mud weights be of any extra benefit if you have to use stakes? Rob
  18. There's been a few boats moored for longer than overnight recently, just above the top lock. Don't think they came to any harm. I moved from Birmingham to Knowle over the weekend. The elsan was in a terrible state, mainly because it's been blocked up and seeping sewage into the bin area. Spent three hours on Saturday trying to clear it up, then reported it to CRT and they're getting in touch with the contractors to fix it. Apart from that, it's quite a nice place. My work backs onto the canal about 600 yards up from the top lock.
  19. Hi Stefan, Not specific to matt black paint but generally speaking you should stick to the same manufacturer for the primer, undercoat and top coat. I'm using Craftmaster rust treatment, primer, undercoat and top coat on my cabin bilge at the moment. Not sure if they sell matt black off the shelf but I had them mix me a small pot of a specific RAL colour in their signwriting paint for an old car I own, which arrived next day so presumably matt black wouldn't be an issue. They're very helpful both online using their contact form and over the phone. craftmasterpaints
  20. Thanks everyone. Mind back at ease now. I do have a wet and dry vac but not one I want to chuck, however, there does seem to be quite a few on ebay to choose from, around the price of a pump out, so that could well be a viable alternative. Rob
  21. Hi, As part of refitting my boat, I'm removing the unused pump out tank. Before my ownership, the boat had a dump though toilet which had long since been removed and the porta potti sat on top of the tank with a plate over the dump through hole. I've now discovered the tank is about 1/3 full of at least six year old bodily fluids and is a bit too heavy to maneuvre without risking spillage. If I reconnected the pipes, would it pump out successfully or will the hole where the toilet should be cause an issue? In my head, pump outs require vacuum to work but now I'm wondering if it'
  22. I'm guessing I've missed some excitement! The floor still isn't sorted that's for sure. I've got all the boards and joists but it's been an experience cutting to fit, finding the board wouldn't fit through the door. Taking it back to my mother's to cut, returning again finding it would fit through the door but needed a bit more shaving off, etc. Replacing the floor without removing the side panels is proving to be an endurance feat with at least a few more weeks to complete. Rob
  23. It's a job to tell and unfortunately those are the most rotten joists and literally fall apart when you touch them but from what I can make out, the extra bits are the full height of the joist. I don't think so. The amount of work that would have gone into fitting them at that stage wouldn't have made any sense.
  24. It has been proving quite difficult. The most frustrating thing is my boat is in Lapworth, right by Curtiss' timber yard and pass it everyday going to work. I can see the stuff I want, neatly stacked at the side of the road but they are shut. Realistically, I can just wait a bit longer to order the wood and spend longer cleaning, prepping and painting the metal.
  25. Thanks for the replies. There were four reasons for the standing water. A long term leak from the hose to the bathroom sink taps, which I fixed when I bought the boat six or seven years ago. The shower tray having a crack, which will be replaced as part of the refit, the pipework to the carolifier, which I'm not convinced is fully cured at the moment but as it'll all need to be disconnected to fit the new floor, will be. Oh and a partial sinking when the base plate had a hole in it, that one has definitely been fixed! I'm attempting to buy the wooden joists today.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.