Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

179 profile views
  1. Hi all, as per the title, intending to install all the necessary lighting as required by the Collision Regulations (COLREG) on a 70 x 12 widebeam. If understood correctly from article found on waterways.org.uk there are 4 lights which are required to be compliant with this regulation: - White masthead light (Installed on bulkhead at the stern/front of boat above the door or a raised mast) - Red port sidelight (Left side closer to the stern front) - Green starboard side light (Right side closer to the stern front) - White stern light (external section of stern) In addition to the above - Tunnel Light (Installed on bulkhead at the stern/front of boat above the door) - Horn (On the roof closer to the stern) In particular, have questions about respective installation requirements i.e. positioning, location, distancing, heights, wiring etc. Does there exist a step by step guide or easily digestible content (a youtube video?) on these specifics? Would anyone perhaps know of good online stores selling the lights, what would be things to look out for, any reliable brands perhaps? Any help or pointers in this direction will be much appreciated.
  2. Below is a more detailed explanation with pictures in case this might be of interest.. or anyone encountering similar problems in future. The circled nut below required some fastening Due to not having enough tightness the circled bit was loose and the "Governor spring"couldnt actually do its job properly.
  3. Hi all, apologies for delay in response as real life took over. Nevertheless, the above mentioned issue was identified and eventually resolved. It was a bit of a headache to try and figure this one out and was discovered by chance after randomly tightening and checking for any bits which might be loose. What happened was that "Throttle Shaft" (no.7 from the diagram below) was rather loose and the holding screw required some tightening, as a result the "Governor Spring" (No.6) could gain more resistance and aid in allowing the fuel to reach the injector. Probably due to engine vibration this part became loose over the time, therefore the flow got disrupted. Hope this helps anyone who might search on the forum for similar troubleshooting.
  4. So, after a long and exhausting 2 weeks - due weather conditions - mostly rain put all job in setback, (as our canopy been damaged and no cover when working on the engine bay), our mechanic managed to do full service on the engine, changing filters, bleeding fuel system - and all the other service related duties! But.... Engine won't start anymore. It seems that lifts pump is getting fuel to top filter and fuel gets to injector pump, but after injector pump fuel is not coming out, maybe only a little drip, so no fuel gets to engine. No pressure at all in injectors. We are in contact with some old legend mechanics who has striped apart every engine- apart of Apollo 13. If it comes removing injector pump and sending to engineers to look at it - so be it. Maybe you have any ideas what could be the issue or maybe there could be some McGyver fix!? Maybe you have some idea or advice to share? We got to get it up and running!
  5. Been on the lookout for a decent Silent Portable Generator (price vs. quality) and so far havent found anything that i could relate to budgetwise. After having touched on this topic, people mostly on the forums stand by a variety of manufacturers such as (high to low cost): 1- Honda, 2- Hyundai, 3- Yamaha, 4- chinese makes on the lower end of market. For the latter it obviously reflects on quality over a period of time. Albeit not in the range of low to medium budget, the general consensus is that all the glory is taken by Honda- youd get what you pay for and the equipment would last a lifetime. Followed by Yamaha as a cheaper cousin of Honda.. its reminiscent of choosing the second or third cheapest drink at the bar- cant go wrong, but cant go full potential either. Yamaha's older models apparently have proven to have a good reputation over the years by its users, however it appears they havent kept up with their quality nowadays. Since it would be more convenient to have it as a back up, rather than switching engine on when battery bank goes low during the evening hours etc.. Initially was intending to purchase a budget diesel/petrol powered portable silent generator to power all appliances on the boat (when necessary i.e. "flat batteries"). However considering the investment it only makes sense paying a little extra and paying only once, rather than ending up with two/ three budget low end units which have have to be replaced every other year or so. Based on gathered intel and basic requirements, would anyone be able to comment in regards to this matter? 1. Required power output for generator in range of 3 - 3.5kw. 2. Perhaps anyone has had experience, and could share some wisdom on German manufactured MIL SILENT 8500W generator? Are they reliable? 3. Does anyone use Hyndai HY3200SEi or any other Hyndai generators? Would like to stay on the safe side by ordering the 2nd/3rd cheapest drink... 4. What could be your best recommendations for a reasonably priced and decent silent generator? Ta'
  6. Thanks everyone for your advice and suggestions. Did some tinkering around and realised it would be better to arrange someone with more experience to take a look. Initially suspected some air intake issues as perhaps the engine doesnt have enough "gasp" in order to function properly- but this being a speculation coming from a newbie... A mechanic is taking a look later today, once he gives his final verdict, will update on here in case anyone else has a similar problem in future.
  7. @TheBiscuits boat is parked in Burscough! It is BMC 2,5l diesel 4 cylinders! Maybe you know location of idle screw as can’t find it!
  8. Hi all, as per the title- the engine doesnt start when in neutral (only if its in either gears- forward or reverse). Same goes when switching from reverse to forward or vice versa- as it needs to pass through neutral, once that is being executed the engine just stops and needs to be restarted again. Anyone has had such an experience in past? Would this be filter issues- been theorizing that if this would be the case, it would lack air intake therefore the engine shuts down completely. Alternatively, perhaps some gear- box issues? Would anyone advice on attempting to resolve this via DIY route or better to search for a professional. If so, would anyone know where to begin the search around Lancashire area? Thanks all
  9. Thanks everyone for your suggestions/ tips and tricks. This was very helpful (especially the string theory @bizzard nice and creative solution, makes quite a lot of sense). Will inspect these options further. Cheerio
  10. Awesome, thanks everyone for your time and wealth of information (didnt budget this in, so thanks @Wide boat man ) Understandably there is much more time needed to prepare for this journey as its not something one should just "wing it". Cheerio
  11. Hi all, Contemplating about crossing with 38ft Narrowboat from Liverpool& Leeds canal via Manchester Ship (River Mersey) into Weaver Canal and enter through Marsh Lock. Given the fact that this is a river with tidal changes and potentially strong currents, would this be a good idea or sounds more like an overly ambition adventure? Has anyone done this, if so any comments suggestions or criticism is very welcome. Thanks in advance
  12. Been on a renovation project for quite a while and wall linings are going up, but ofcourse since the boat's steelwork expands and contracts due to outside weather its near impossible to use a regular "Screwfix" product which is mean for onshore homes. For this reason would anyone have a pointer toward a quality type/ brand of deocrators caulk to be used for sealing in between the lining panels? Preferably something flexible enough to remain in place between the linings (if such a thing exists at all). Uploaded the photos below to show how the panels have moved apart even though when screwed them in place they were sitting flush against each other + its visible where the filler has been applied prior to expansion. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.