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    Whip'ma Whop'ma
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  1. I had a similar experience with a new Canaline 38 a few years ago. The starting was fine when I got the boat in the summer but as it progressed into winter this poor starting became evident. Reading up a bit (I believe searching on here) I found other reports of poor starting of Canaline 38 and 42s. The suggestion being of voltage drop depending on length of wiring between control panel and engine. I approached Canaline directly and they sent an engineer out (Chris Jones from Stoke on Trent I think it was) who added a relay so that the glow plugs were supplied directly from the starter motor feed triggered by the feed from the ignition switch. He also checked the timing and adjusted it slightly. I had no problems following this in any weather.
  2. Another vote for the bowline. I tend to use it to create a small loop on the end of a centre line. I can then pass the ropes up to crew at deep locks usint the boat hook. I've also tied one around the chest (under arms) of someone who had fallen in first give him confidence that he wasn't going to drown and then to help pull him out (large guy, tall bank). To moor up I generally only use: i) OXO or 080 on the T-stud ii) Bargeman's/Canalman's hitch on bollards/dollies Both are dead easy to apply and release but hold secure.
  3. Again, one that is not strictly on an isolated waterway but not many boaters get there due to the difficult access, is trips run by the Pocklington Canal Society (https://www.pocklingtoncanalsociety.org/boat-trips) from Melbourne.
  4. There's a couple of descriptions of actual use on the Trentlink anchor information page: https://trentlink.wordpress.com/anchors/
  5. The build started July 2021 and was launched April this year. Built by Pintail Boats. We did have some big steel price increases incorporated in May 2021 but I'm sure steel and other costs will have gone up again since then.
  6. Yes, if starting today I would probably be looking at serial hybrid with LFP, as things have moved on from when I first planned our boat. However, I may not now be able to afford that. What I do have is a boat that would operate as an electric only boat if there were enough charging points and the 1.75kw of solar has actually performed better than I thought. Our cruising pattern tends to be between 2 and 4 hours every other day when cruising. We only run the engine on long stretches for 1-2 hours. I'm sure it could be more efficient if we had been able to afford LFP but I'm happy with what we've managed to achieve.
  7. Who from? Hybrid Marine are the obvious supplier, and IIRC their system costs rather more than £15k extra... (I had a quote from them last year) Yes, from Hybrid Marine. Thinking again the difference was probably more around £20k, but difficult to tell exactly as I spec'ed a boat that the builder priced as a diesel boat (but incorporating many elements of an electric only boat - large invertor, solar, etc.). He then got the details from Hybrid Marine and produced the final quote. The initial difference was about £15k (£120k to £135k). As we went in to build there was an increase due to steel price increases, other supply increases and some elements of the hybrid package that hadn't been included. However, my point still stands that you don't have to pay £250k to get an electric boat as my total was £150k.
  8. Is it a parallel or series setup? and batteries LAs or lithium? Parallel with LAs.
  9. You don't have to spend anywhere near that to get an electric boat. It is the same as with a diesel powered boat. There are new builds available over a wide price range. My new (this year) hybrid cost approx. £150k and the hybrid element added approx £15k compared to a diesel only.
  10. He has like me valence Lifepo4s so why endanger them if the controller goes faulty? Ok, explains it. I realised after posting that I had assumed LA batteries.
  11. Why?? Does your MPPT controller not do multi-stage charging i.e. go into absorption and then float when the batteries are fully charged?
  12. Today 2022 - some proper boats all heading to Whitley Lock for a 'meet'. Bulholme Lock, A&C
  13. This morning 2022 and yesterday Leaving West Haddlesey Flood Lock, Selby Canal on to the Aire Tankard Bridge, Selby Canal
  14. Whoa whoa whoa. No one has said your advice was rubbish. No one (and certainly not me) has said you must use a daft modern controller. I'm sorry I even mentioned the make of my controller now because I certainly didn't want to divert the discussion down that avenue. I asked a question because I didn't understand this talk of frying controllers if the panels are not disconnected when the batteries are. From the knowledge I have it does not make sense and to me suggests a faulty or very poorly designed controller. There is lots of experience on this forum so shouldn't we be pulling together our knowledge to help others. If there are particular controllers that cause problems can we name them so we can advise people to avoid them. However, it is still vallid to tell people it is best practice to install an easy way to disconnect the panels from the controller.
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