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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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About gbclive

  • Birthday 02/06/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Warlingham, Surrey.
  • Interests
    Kelvin engines

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
  • Boat Name
  • Boat Location
    Pyrford on the Wey over winter.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. 12v oil pump for £13.99

    I’ve had a Lidl one for about a year - it quickly empties our Kelvin sump of Luke warm oil via a side access cover. Only problem has been the excitement caused by the 2L recipient container filling up much quicker than expected. I managed to knock it over and contaminate the battery compartment Not the pump’s fault of course
  2. Kelvin J2 Governor Leak

    Thanks guys - that’s very interesting. I assumed that mine was a one off modification as I had not seen anything similar before. It does seem to have been carefully made.
  3. Kelvin J2 Governor Leak

    Thanks very much - I can just make out the simple chain BEngo referred to. Seems a previous owner must have realy had a problem with checking / topping up the governor?
  4. Kelvin J2 Governor Leak

    Thanks - that would be great - no rush at all. I have various grades of card like gasket material from a previous engine cooling circuit flang leak and also a set of wad punches, so will crack on with this next week. Cheers.
  5. Kelvin J2 Governor Leak

    Thanks BEngo - that’s very helpful. I’m girding my loins before I get stuck in - I appreciate this would be entirely routine for the engineers amongst us, but this will be the first time since 1972 that I’ve done proper mechinical stuff (when I re-built an old MG Midget and it’s engine under supervision). If anyone has a photo or tech drawing of the normal connection between the governor and the injection pump, it would be useful to see what I would need in the future in order to return things to standard. in the short term I’ll try Heldite as I have some already. Thanks again, Clive.
  6. Kelvin J2 Governor Leak

    I’m on a mission to reduce my J2’s various diesel drips. There are several culprits, but the governor is the main one. I initially assumed that the governor case was leaking, as there is usually a pool of diesel where the governor flange mates with the engine, which then drains down onto the adjacent engine bearer. However, at some time past, my J2 has had a small open topped fuel reservoir added to the top of the front plate of the governor - presumably connecting to the small vent hole. This is to enable the governor to be topped up without removing the filler plug. This is in addition to the injector drain manifold feeding into the governor. The cranked rack enters the reservoir above an overflow drain, which is above the top of the governor. The only visible attachment points of the reservoir to the governor are 2 studs through the lower part of the reservoir. Using fluorescent dye and a UV torch, it appears that diesel is weeping from the interface between the reservoir and the front plate of the governor and perhaps also from its two attachment studs. I’d like to cure the reservoir leak to see if that is the root cause, rather than the governor case itself. I’ve included some photos - I’m a bit concerned by the involvement of the injector slide as I’ve not found much info on the normal arrangement or how it connects to the governor in my case. Before I attempt to separate the reservoir, I’d be very grateful for any thoughts and advice on how best to proceed. My engineering “prowess” is solely down to what I have gleaned from the kind folks of this hallowed place, so please keep it simple Thanks guys! Clive.
  7. Thanks - that does make a lot of sense. But as the stove was drawing well over the last 3 winters, until very recently, I’m going to try and clean the flue robustly, and also remove the baffle plate. I’m hoping that the draw will then be improved. If it’s OK I’ll know to keep a close eye on it including the dodgy ledge and clean it very often. This will be much easier with no baffle plate to remove each time. If not I will bite the bullet and comply with one of your two suggestions.
  8. gbclive

  9. More info: It appears that we have an unusual flue installation. For some reason the internal insulation with its lining has been cut away or discontinued from half way up. This has resulted in a distinct internal ledge half way up at the top the insulated section. The professional boat flue cleaner did not make any comment last year, but I remember him using a homemade chain flail attached to a cordless drill. 4 x sink plug chain attached to a wooden disk. I get the feeling that over many years, some brushing may have stopped at this lip - there is definitely a drastic increase in crud from the ledge or lip down to the throat within the more narrow insulated section. So why would the installer have done this and is the inner skin that retains the insulation normally robust enough to withstand drastic treatments such as chain flails or nails in a bit of 2” x 2” ? Of course it might not be an original Morso flue. Outside dimension is uniform at about 4.5”. Thanks, Clive.
  10. OK, thanks everyone - as always lots of helpful advise and information. I will definately clean the flue MUCH more regularly from now on! I’ve removed the deflector / baffle plate whilst cleaning, however I’m aware of the Morso advise not to have it fitted if the flue is less than 4.5m so pondering this. Would the draw be better or worse without it? No sign of a half moon plate - I can see a circular view of the grate when looking down. Todays plan is to buy a broom pole, and attach a sturdy wire brush to it, with a thin rope attached and kept tight from the throat to help get some lateral pressure. I’m also contemplating somehow rigging up a suitable hole cutter on a long shaft? I have a range of sizes. Also I might try burning some of the flue clear powder in the hope of softening the crud. I’ll report back
  11. Thanks - I’ll give the flue more frequent attention once I sort it out.
  12. Last year we had the flue swept professionally. This year, I bought a brush and rods to do it myself. So here’s the thing......... The 4” drain brush (all I could get today) only went about half way down, then stopped. On closer inspection, there appears to be a sudden reduction in the internal diameter, from about 4.3” at the top through the collar to perhaps 3 inches or even a tad less from about the mid point down to the stove. The top wider section was not too bad and is now fairly clean. However the lower narrow section is heavily incrusted and my 4” stiff brush won’t go down past the reduction and in any case, having attacked the 1st couple of inches from the bottom with a large screwdriver, I don’t think a brush will do much. So my first question is whether it’s possible that our flue is initially twin walled, changing to single wall for the top half? (The external surface of the flue is uniform from top to bottom) And secondly, I’d be very grateful for any suggestions on how best to proceed with the encrusted section. For info, we only burn smokeless fuel, but we don’t know what previous owners used. Thanks to this forum I understand the safety implications and have triple CO detectors as a last line of defence. Many thanks, Clive.
  13. Non slip tape for the gunnels

    +1 for this. Even a very respected and experienced marine engineering company got this totally wrong on our boat last year. They sanded just the middle strip. I had to explain to them that as soon as one stands on the gunwale facing the boat, it's the very outer edge that needs to be non slip. That is unless you stand like an extreme version of Charlie Chaplain with each foot rotated 90 degrees! Dont ask how I know this with absolute certainty Our mark 2 version extends the non slip surface out around the radiused edge slightly, but I have not bothered to have the smooth inboard inch sanded.
  14. Mooring in Bath

    Slight improvement now - the temporary metal fencing has been moved back so as to restore access and use of this whole stretch of 48 hour visitor moorings. However most of the 3 or 4 available ones today are at the noisier end towards the bridge.

    Not every hour - that would be daft! We have been moored up for the last 3 days heading north / south. Late evening tilted east for the next days morning light. Then level at mid day, then west to maximise the evening light (I know, I should get out more) Whilst the improvement is not huge, it's enough to motivate me to adjust the tilt if I'm at the boat. However I do accept that aesthetically flat is better. I'd suggest that the argument is not really about tilting but rather about actually having a reasonable solar setup paired with a reasonably efficient boat....... or not.