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About gbclive

  • Birthday 06/02/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Warlingham, Surrey.
  • Interests
    Kelvin engines
  • Occupation
    Pilot - update now retired :-)
  • Boat Name
  • Boat Location
    King's Orchard Marina, near Lichfield

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  1. If you use pins which have a metal loop near the head, use a spare long pin as a leaver. Insert say a 1/3 of its length through the loop, then with its pointy end braced against the ground, pull repeatably up sharply up on the other end using it as a lever. This gives a mechanical advantage and gets the extraction started so it’s usually easy from there. The longer the pin, the greater the potential leverage that is available. Another benefit of this method is that it’s a very quiet way compared to using a mallet when trying to do a stealthy early morning departure without disturbing any neighbours😏. If stealth is not a factor, tapping the head of the pin in various directions prior to levering out usually makes things even easier. One point of caution, heads of pins can become very sharp over time from hammering. edit - sorry Cheshire Cat beat me to it and was much more succinct😏.
  2. Ditto “Herriard 270”, Lasham clubhouse, also in the ‘70’s🙂
  3. I used Roger Downer back in March 2017. Duke is a 1997 trad with a Kelvin. He was very practical and helpful and I’d have used him again if we were still at Pyford.
  4. Thanks for the useful information in various posts. I’d noticed that this seasons SuperTherm had deteriorated drastically in terms of ash compared with my recollection from last winter, so It’s good to understand why - it is on the approved list.
  5. Thanks, thats very kind of you. I’ve left a message on Dick’s answer machine.
  6. That interesting. Duke is not that old, built 1993 with a 1948 J2. When I purchased the boat, the engine was getting warmer than it should on rivers etc. Kelvin engineers RW Davis investigated and identified the large but very poorly designed skin tank under the floor as the culprit. They welded a much smaller but properly baffled one externally on the aft swim. It was subsequently discovered that the original skin tank was clogged up with three bucket loads of thick grease!
  7. Thanks BEngo. I’ll phone Dick Goble to see if he would like to turn down the lower surface of the gland. Your comments on leak rates and number of packing rings are reassuring - thanks.
  8. Thanks dmr. I did not have the required gizmo to transfer files from my camera to my iPad, so made do with using the iPad’s camera. The in situ one was lit by my head torch. The black backgrounds ones were taken on a spare micro fibre cloth to reduce reflections. Their usual purpose is to mop out the sump during oil changes😏 But I still love my J2🙂
  9. Thanks John. I usually find simple trumps complicated, so I’ll probably have the gland adjusted.
  10. If I may, I’d like to resurrect this 2 year old thread in order to seek further advice. Long story short… the coolant pump body on my J2 was modified by a previous owner, reasons unknown. This has resulted in there being room for only 2 rings of 3/8” or 10mm packing. My previous experiment with a hydraulic seal + 1 ring of packing seemed to cause more aggressive wear to the chromed ram than conventional packing. So 2 years ago I reverted to using 2 rings of conventional packing. This gave 1 year, about 1000h, of acceptable leakage, but steady deterioration over the last season with about 100ml per hour in spite of regular nipping up of the gland. So I’ve just replaced the packing again using the same product as last time, then carefully reassembled the pump as before, only to find that the max amount of gland thread that can engage into the pump body is a paltry 2/3 of a revolution before reaching the top packing ring. This is a bit less than I recall last time and is obviously unacceptable and results in significant weeping past the threads. So I’m back at square one and looking for reasons and solutions. The nominal 10mm sq packing seems a sensible size in relation to the cylinder and ram diameters. 9.9mm gap and about 10.6mm actual size of packing. First question please. I’ve attached some photos including the top of the pump body and a quick sketch. Can anyone enlighten me as to the previous modification and why it may have been necessary? I’m guessing that some bronze has been removed from around the top of the cylinder? Second question. Would using a lathe to removing say 1/4” or so from the lower surface of the gland be something to consider in order to allow more of its threaded upper portion to engage with the top of the cylinder thread? To my mind it would be bad form to do this kind of irreversible mod to a Kelvin component, but I’m working with a pump that’s already been altered in some way. Thanks everyone.
  11. Actually, under the planning tab you can set the following using imperial or metric: Boat length (feet😞 Boat width (feet😞 Boat height (feet😞 Boat draught (feet😞 (Ignore the strange smileys, nowt to do with me, they just appeared when I copied the above from the web page, and editing them out does not work on my iPad).
  12. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  13. Used some cheap emergency (space) blankets as solar reflective window film. (Heath Robinson would have been proud of me😏). Of course nothing beats mooring in the shade of a large tree, so this is for when that option is not available and for when under way. I proved the concept worked well last summer at home, so I’ve temporarily lined our boats windows with this same cheap as chips film. Bramble - 10 Large Multi-Purpose Insulated Foil Emergency Blankets - 210x160cm for £9.99 from Amazon (sorry - other suppliers are available😏). On the plus side the perceived reduction in heat is quite noticeable. There are a few downsides though… On dull days the effect is akin to wearing dark glasses inside, so rather gloomy. Also it is a bit of a faff cutting to size and temporally attaching to each window with masking tape. At home I’ve treated each of the south facing bedrooms and cut separate panels for the opening windows. However, on the boat we normally remove the hopper glass for ventilation, so only about 2/3 of each window has been treated. The effect will obviously be less, but I feel it’s still been worth the effort. A single pack was more than enough for the boat + selected windows at home. I’ve no idea how big any compromise is by using my cheap method compared with purpose made solar film, but it works well enough for me for some temporary relief during this heatwave. Incidentally, the fold lines make it easier to cut the panels square.
  14. Two blokes leaning on their shovels this morning? Me thinks it’s going to take a while!
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