BEngo

The reason modern stop-self start motors have AGM batteries is two-fold: The AGM is a starved electrolyte battery, so is less susceptible to sulphation at part-charge, because their are fewer free sulphate ions. One of the myriad car computers controls the alternator to charge on the overrun and during braking when the energy is 'free' and does not appear in CO2 testing The battery needs to have space to accept this charge so the charge control is set up to not normally fill the battery beyond about 80%. This is likely to enhance sulphation in an ordinary LA battery. Hence AGM. N

Thanks for that. Useful. To share some practical experience: My 6 kVA lombardini powered genny unit shares a vertical skin tank with the 22 hp Kelvin. I cant remember the tank size but it is about 6 x 2 ft on the inside of the port swim and about 12 m of 1 in. pipe on the other side. The Kelvin will go all day at full chat, getting cold to cool water at inlet and I have never managed to get the lombardini to trip its overheat alarm though it doesn't do 6 kVA very often or for long. I have not tried genny + engine together, because they also share an exhaust, but do not expect they would be well cooled. N

If the off side rubbish hoppers were flat topped they could be loaded with a couple or 3 biffa type bins then, when the bins are full towed to an unloading ramp and replaced by empties and towed back again. The waste company then collects/ empties the full ones. Towage would be a volly (volboater?) job. The fulls awaiting collection and any spare empties would need to be kept secure from fly-tippers. Getting boatyard and marinas to provide alternatives to CRT facilities will be a very hard ask. Loads of costs, (even if CRT offers to pay), loads of hassle: no benefits. I would bet CRT will find this is a dearer option than in house. New marinas could be coerced through a change to the NAA, but the existing ones are not likely to want to sign-up to changes without some payback.. Boatyards dont need an NAA AFAIK, so could only be got on board at lease renewal time, and only then if they are on a CRT lease. N

No reason why you should not fit an external heat exchanger. That is all a skin tank is and many boat engines are happily cooled by a skin tank. It will need enough rated capacity for at least the equivalent of the engine's maximum output. i.e. a 10kW engine needs a 10 kW rated heat exchanger. You will need to check that both the engine coolant circulating pump and the heater exchanger coolant circulating pump are up to their job. If you use a skin tank type the area will need to be about 50% greater than is usually allowed for a propulsion engine, because the genny will need to be usable at full power when the boat is stationary and that reduces the effectiveness of heat transfer from the tank to the surroundings when compared with a main engine which has water flowing past the tanks. N

It is a particularly nasty gas as you rapidly get used to the stink and do not notice the smell, but it carries right on killing you. It even turns gold black. Fortunately it sets off CO alarms, so if you get an unexpected alarm and/or hot /or bow-ended batteries get off the boat swiftly. Turn off any charger (incl solar) and allow things to cool before going back. N

The outdoor elsan, aka The Throne, is fine. No need for a flush tank, just a rinse pipe. Cold hand wash from the rinse pipe is fine too. The cast pillar type of water point can be made to comply with the water regs, and again is robust. Rubbish points need a proper metal fence, a self closing door with a robust fixed lock and proper CCTV. Then the legal department can do something useful prosecuting fly-tippers. N

Do you wish to pray to them once nightly, and four times on Wednesdays, or just to fit them, use them and renew them? If the first buy Trojans and the necessary monitoring kit. If the second, buy common or garden leisure batteries from someone like Tayna or Shield. Check the weight of each battery before you buy. Heavier means more lead; is better if you ate not over paying for it. If possible get open cell ones and top them up with distilled water monthly. If that is too much effort buy maintenance free ones. In either case ignore the magic eye. It only looks at 1/6 of the battery. Get a multi meter and a DC clamp meter for checking them when they appear knackered. N

Not going there, but does the men's section have a proper trilby, red/white neckerchief, collarless shirt and weskit set? Or perhaps a flat 'at and bib-and brace overall? N

Does not look much like a Lister engine to me either. If it was 1938 I would expect either CE or JP. Both have variable compression and I cannot see the wheels to change it. Nor does the rocker cover look right. Any ideas? Key start Bolinder? 1958 not 1938? N

If you are in CRT water they are very likely to act. If you are in Peel water (the Bridgewater) they are near certain to act. The EA will act, once they notice. N

Have you looked at a 4 blade prop? That will have a bit less pitch than a 3 blader but will still absorb the power. Cheaper than a new gearbox too, I expect. N

The pressure switch in most pumps is the weakest point, IME followed by the shaft seal. It is worth fitting a separate pressure switch. Square D have a good rep and are adjustable. It will need a suitable tee fitting in the pressure pipe from the pump to taps. N

I have been told that I should not have entered Newbold tunnel whilst a boat was in the tunnel coming toward me. N

Once you have a suitable battery size do you have a suitable charging set up that is able, in a reasonable time, to put back all the electricity which has gone out? N

Well they are well ventilated but also the easiest to vandalise as the access is so easy, both to the bowl and the pipework. I remember the one near Autherly junction, a couple of hundred metres up the Shroppie. It was more out of order than working, now it has gone. The one by the A45 road bridge in Braunston is similar, though that is mistreatment by users I think. N

100Ah LiFePO4 battery on Amazon for £379. Seems a very good price, but not quite too good to be true. Has essential emergency BMS stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08P4Z48RG/ref=pe_4022371_729066791_em_1p_0_lm Any one had any experience with Kepworth stuff? N

Boatmens Mission at Walsall. Briefly a museum. Not sure what its current state is. N

Whilst we can most easily measure Volts and Amps at any point, what we are really dealing with is Power, measured in Watts. Watts come from the sun, and some are caught by the panels and sent down the cables, very slightly less Watts go into the controller, slightly less Watts come out again, very slightly less Watts go into the batteries. Quite a lot less Watts are stored by the batteries. All the Watts lost before the batteries go to heat up the cables and the controller. The Watts lost in the battery go to making it gas and to warming it up. Now, since Watts are Amps x Volts, while charging, the Watts before the controller can be either higher voltage, lower Amps ( series panels) or lower voltage, higher Amps (parallel panels.) The Watts after the controller are at battery charging voltage, and the Amps are as necessary to make up the right number of Watts. N

Blisworth, cos it is wide and deep and you can get the boat settled nicely on it's own wave system so it becomes incredibly easy to steer. You also get a free roof rinse part way through. Gosty Hill cos it means you are nearly at Hawne Basin, and a very friendly group of boaters. Newbold. The lights are an amazing tribute to the stunning incompetence of BW and local officialdom. Are any still working? N

Dual fuel engines are common in big ships, but they just use gas and diesel. A tiny quantity of diesel (tiny compared with the quantity that would be needed to produce the full engine output) is injected and burns, acting as the ignition source for a large volume of weak gas/air mix. The gas is usually CNG, revaporised LPG or LNG boil-off in gas carriers. The benefit for the extra complexity is lowered sulphur emissions and lowered consumption of low-sulphur fuel. The device described by the OP will cost power, not provide extra, and you would need to redesign the combustion space to get any emissions benefit. In which case a low-emission pure diesel can probably do a better job. N

We have a tall Indesit fridge jobby at home. That too is prone to being noisy, but the makers helpfully included a booklet describing its various burps, farts and gurgles! N

To add to the possibilities 1/4 BSP is 0.518 in ( just over 1/2 in) or 13.16 mm OD. N

No pic for me. What is the outside diameter of the thread? 3/8 BSP is OD 0.656 in ( a bit bigger than 5/8 in) or 16.62 mm and is 19 tpi 1/2 BSP is 0.825 in ( 7/8 in) 20.995 mm and is 14 tpi. If you don't have a caliper, a decent adjustable spanner and a tape measure can be used as a substitute. If in doubt, order a 3/4 BSP socket in the new tank and buy brass threaded bushes 3/4 outside by 1/2 inside and 3/4 outside by 3/8 inside. One will fit. Your local plumbers merchant or Plumbase should have these. N

Heldite, or the Tru Blu stuff Toolstation sell are best for diesel. Hylomar or Wellseal work if you are in straits. PTFE tape, of the water or gas type, are not suitable for diesel, though they do work for a while. N

Seems pretty good to me. It is only on for about 1/4 of the time. A typical power audit allowance is for the fridge motor to be on about 50% of the time. What temperature is the thermostat knob at? Since the compressor runs OK for 3-4 minutes but comes back a bit quicker than is typical you may be gaining heat somewhere, or the fridge is very cold. 3 to 4 C in the middle is ideal. Test with a meat thermo probe thingy into a bowl of water that has been on the middle shelf over night. N