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Everything posted by BEngo
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Standard Hoselock type fittings are versatile and there is a good variety. Should you need bespoke, If you have half-inch hose a piece of 15mm copper pipe can be inserted and retainex by a jubilee clip. You can then fit a 15mm compression lever ball valve to the copper pipe and another piece of pipe to the valve. The last piece of pipe can be modified to suit the tasks you have. Open end fits in the tank filler, Small holes drilled along the pipe give you a sprinkler, for example. Note the advice above regarding stop valvves and water pressure. N
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Dust management during mechanical rust removal
BEngo replied to Sir Percy's topic in Boat Building & Maintenance
Mirka make a dust free sander. Aylesbury Canal Society provides one as part of the hire charge for their wet dock. Most modern professional power tools come with or have available a dust extraction kit in order to keep the H&S folks happy. There are several auto start vaccum cleaner on the market. These flash up the suction as soon as the power tool which is plugged in to the vacuum socket starts. N -
I don't think this is the case. IIRC Capella's replacement ellum and hydraulic drive were fabricated in Aylesbury basin by Tony Harmer, as part of the process of putting a cabin on and moving from ' The Lady Val' To Capella. I remember being shwn progress and was surprised that all the 'fixed' pipework was run in hydraulic hose rather than rigid pipework and fittings. WFBC may well have provided advice. I know John Pattle was involved to some extent in the hydraulic equipment choices. Sue Cawson or Judith Clegg may well have some photos of 'Renown'. That has a stern tube and ventilation plates with an SR3 under the hatches. I think it was lifted more than once as part of the Aylesbury lift-outs, so there should be photos of that around N
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2 or 3x2 timber on the bearers is common. It should be treated timber. Insulation is not common, but closed cell polyurethabe type sheet (celotex) will not absorb water if there isxa flood. Ventiation below the floor is essential as are hatches to check what is happening. One at the back will enable you to get at any water that has run along the bilge. Using a fridge fan to draw air through the bilges is a good trick. 18mm Good-One-Side ( shuttering ) ply is a good and common floor material. Scaffold boards are too likely to move independently of each other as the weight comes on, unless you groove the sides and fit a loose tongue. They are also rough edged so wont fit closely together. They would be all right iif finished up neatly and laid over a ply or OSB floor. N
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Restarting water system after winterising
BEngo replied to Si7's topic in Boat Building & Maintenance
I woulx turn the pump off, and let the pressure out at a working tap. Then remove the tap headworks as if changing the washer and turn the pump back on till water emerges. You may get quite a lot so be prepared. Then pump off and reassemble. N -
Toothed belts are very much more sensitive to tension than V and wedge belts. Get it wrong and belt life is very short. Certainly a car alternator type swivel tension arrangement is feasible, but getting it set 'right ' is likely to be difficult and slow. A proper tensioner makes things a lot easier. Often the tensioner is an extra wheel which can also help with any wrap problems. N
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Possible, but I rather think that the misalignment needed to operate the Kelvin box would mean the chain had a short life. One Kelvin characteristic which might help, if there is any internal information about Edith, is that they needed a transverse engine bed. Very few, if any other diesels did. The design of the engine is such that it will not fit conventional longitudinal beds.
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I think a single K2 at 44 hp would have been fine in Edith in the hands of an experienced skipper. Knowing the tiver and the estuary seems to have been an exssential part of working Severn, and fools ( and their craft) did not last long. A good skipper would know how not to get into situations where 44 hp was not enough to get out again. Good decisions come from experience. Experience- what you get from poor decisions. Regardless, the props on the Saul shot do not look suited to a K2 at all, though they do appear to me to be of the right hand. N
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Twin props off a single engine would be unusual, but lnot impossible. The two props showm look similar, so ig is not a main engine/ less powerful wing engine set up. The Kelvin K series ( except the K6) came with a built-in, non reducing gearbox as standard. (It is a part of the engine, effectively.) This has the peculiarity that the output shaft moves fore and aft in order to change between ahead and astern, and the propellor thrust is what holds it in gear. A chain lash up as suggested above would therefore be difficult. It seems to me more likely that two engines were fitted when photographed on dock at Saul. And the K2 was installed after that. Only one engine need have reversing gear fitted, used for manoeuvring, with the other only used for ahead work. The large sailing rudder would have helped. What was the propellor arrangement when dumped at Purton?
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Have you checked that the inside of the stove is clean, particularly below the top flue inlet and behind the back boiler or on top of the baffle plate? CO production soars if the fuel is damp. If the stove was OK CO wise 36 hours after filling, then something has changed after that. I would expect the stove to be out and cold by then, (mine struggles to go for much over 24 hours) as it seems you did. A stove that is out does not produce CO. I would be inclined to look again for possible other sources of CO or gases that trigger CO alarms. Is the alarm OK- does it pass the joss stick check? N
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First stop is John Deere for details of the back of the engine. There will be a drawing showing the mounting holes that are available and the holes in the flywheel provided for drive plate ( aka clutch housing) fastenings. They may also have a variety of bell housings available. Next stop is your chosen gearbox supplier for details of the front of the gearbox you fancy. PRM 260?? Again there will be a drawing showing the mounting holes and the available drive options- flange, splined shaft etc. You may need to research some of the options to get the detail needed as they may be defined as, for example, SAE standard items. Try to get the drawings as electronic versions in .dwg format. Then you need a CAD technician to draw up a 3D CAD model of the engine/box junction, particularly the bell housing and gearbox adaptor plate. S/He will be really happy if you can provide 3D drawings of the engine eear and the gearbox front. Once armed with drawings look for a 3D printer to make the housing and a machine shop like Paul Redshaw at Braunston to make the adaptor plate. Most of the drive plate vendors can do a special to connect the gearbox input to the engine drive end. Buy a spare! Using an intermediate shaft can also be done, using a similar process. Don't forget to include proper guards. N
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Dont forget to turn the fuel back on, and bleed the new filter or the engine will start and then stop soon after. The bleed screw is just visible at the top behind the priming pump, or loosen the outlet pipe union until it hisses and re-tighten once diesel appears. If the tank level is not above the filter you may need to assist things by using the priming pump. N
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Alwayz good to hear from someone who has had benefit from my ramblings. N
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A to Z of Vintage Marine Engines by Kevin Whittle
BEngo replied to David Schweizer's topic in Vintage Engine Forum
I would have thought that an asking price the same as the original sticker price would be a good starting point. You can always reduce if there is no interest, and if the phone is ringing off the hook then a withdrawal is always possible. I guess that many of the copies printed went onto shelves, and will not change hands again. N -
Not to mention the eco-warriors who will turn up protesting about the carbon and particulates being released into the air. N
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The cable size is the size that produces an acceptable volt drop at the length and working current in use. This will usually mean a cable which could safely carry more current than is needed. Battery fuses are usually midi or mega fuses rated for the load and cable size Very few seem to pay any attention to the interrupt capacity (AIC) of the fuses but this should be thoughh about, particularly if a large Lithium battery is installed. Distribution fusing is often through proprietary or bespoke panels which switch and fuse the subsidiary circuits. Sometimes a domestic consumer unit can be adapted, but then one needs to watch the DC ratings of the breakers. There are also CAN bus solutions but these are not common. N
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The tap at Cosgrove sani stn is painfully slow, the one below the lock is better, but not spectacular. N
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And then there was the hover Hoover aka the Constellation. Looked a bit like a flying saucer IIRC. N
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Mine is either Craftmaster Manchester Red or Alfa Red, depending on what is available when a new tin is needed. N
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Very effectively. Even the hardened stuff. In the past I have used clean cooking oil to get blacking out of my hair post docking. Then shampoo. N
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Dead right. Not only are they neglected internally a lot are also rusting away from the accessible side as a result of a pool of water on the counter plate in the engine bay. N
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You appear to have a pretty good grasp of what needs looking at and how to do it. Why not do all the servicing yourself and look for a mechanic only when you are unsure that something is right or have a snag you can't handle? Some reference photographs of how it all looks when in good order would form a starting point . N
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The difference between BT tubes and hull sides etc. is that the tube is often not as thick as the sides. It doesn't corrode much faster but it hasn't got the material to last as long. This is compounded by a tendency not to paint them properly ( not at all on some blackings and some boats with fixed screens cannot be got at except by removing the BT unit) and by the stresses locked into the tube by rolling it and then resistance welding the seam. Drawn tubes would be better (and could be thicker) but they are much more expensive. A final factor is that many are used close to the bank and the tube gets blasted by loose gravel, damaging any paint. N
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Flat and knackered starter battery. If you can charge it off the mains for at least 24 hours. It takes much longer than many folk think to refill a battery. Once charged leave it for an hour with the charger off and then check the terminal voltage. It should be about 12.7 v. Poor connections in the starter circuit. Check they are all clean and tight. The alternator needs 12V to get itself going. If the start battery is duff there may well be not enough volts to excite it. Once it is going it will keep itself going, hence why it works when jump started. N
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Bow thruster tubes are well known for corroding through. A magnesium anode should slow this, but may not entirely prevent corrosion. Try to get a low profile one to minimise the loss of thrust caused by an obstruction in the tube. N