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If they did,I reckon I know the two women...🙄

Wincham is straddle crane, very easy and Tom is very obliging. Middlewich dry dock is not available for any use other than the hire fleet owner. I would take the plunge, offer a little less and buy it whilst you can.But then I don't like surveys, there are so many get out clauses that they tend to be almost worthless.

Alan, I agree as the more I read the more I think it’s best I do not take on the task of re wiring the boat.

I'd say that's not a very good idea. Unless the boat has a very thick baseplate then the builder would have the dubious proposition of sitting ballast on top of the sprayfoam. Additionally, any plumbing leaks which are bound to happen over the years and would normally drain to the stern of the cabin where the water can be removed via an inspection hatch, would instead soak into the sprayfoam (which is comprised of both closed and open cells) or get underneath it and there would be no way of getting it out. Just get the ballast laid on old cables or plastic spacers and if you want floor insulation it would need to go under the floorboards.

On this day in 2012. The Leek Branch and Leek Tunnel. Hazlehurst Junction, leaving the Leek Branch. Stockton Brook top lock.

Where did you check the battery voltage ? (at the batteries or at the fridge ?) I bet if you check the voltage going into the fridge you'll find it probably 1v less than at the battery. You obviously have a volt drop problem which is shown by the fact that you are dragging the battery down with the inverter so that by the time the reduced voltage gets to the fridge it is below what the fridge will accept. Start the engine and you'll be getting 14+ volts at the battery, and probably ~13v at the fridge, the fridge will run perfectly with or without the inverter on. The fact you have been living in the marina with the batteries permanently on charge has masked the problem that your fridge is wired in with the wrong cable. I had exactly the same problem - the answer is to re-wire the fridge supply using the correct sized cable - this will dpend on the distance of the fridge from the battery and should be measured taking into account out & return (so twice the distance) Your manual will tell you what size cable to use, mine shows : For example if the fridge is 7mts from the battery the distance out & return is 14mts, 14 metres require cable size A MINIMUM of 10mm2

Just to clarify. The picture is not of one of their narrowboats. All pram hoods automatically self lower when they detect a bridge. 😀

The very later Stowe Hills(2003/4 onwards) front ends got worse and worse, I think Reeves was trying to push the boundaries of common sense just to reduce the steel budget. There were a couple of hulls bought in from Mel Davies too, and these are characteristically tasteful and well made, albeit with a very semi circular back end.

This is “house wiring thinking”. In a house, lighting is not usually protected by an RCD and the current is fairly small (6A breaker and thin wiring). In a boat, everything should be protected by an RCD. But does this boat actually have built-in mains lighting? I don’t mean eg table lights plugged into a 13A socket. That is fairly unusual and if it does then the circuit (wiring) should be protected by a breaker of less than the cable rating and that makes it hard to limit the overall current to 16A without having another 16A MCB feeding the rest of them. What is the reason for wanting a separate breaker for the water heater? Again in a house, the incoming current capability is huge, there is a huge master fuse. And typically a ring main or two with 32A breakers and a separate breaker for the immersion heater, shower etc. But in a boat as I said the max current is limited to 16A. If you turn on appliances including the water heater, so as to exceed a total of 16A, you want something on the boat to trip, rather than relying on someone else’s shore bollard breaker, if you don’t want a catastrophe caused by the shore cable melting. The easiest way to achieve all that is to use one 16A breaker (MCB+RCD, or RCBO) to feed everything, unless there is a good reason to do something different.

I think that the batteries are goosed. 12.64v after a 7 hour run suggests not fully charged by a long way or duff batteries. You will always get some volt drop to a fridge, the starting current is quite high and if the battery voltage is not optimal it won't kick in.

My thoughts exactly. Ugly bugger!!

Total brain fade. My apologies.

The problem is that interfaces between different materials (e.g. metals and corrosion) can form diodes -- not very good ones, but still enough to mean the resistance to current flow in the two directions is different, which converts some of the AC current to DC.

Today in 2013 the weir alongside this lock on the r Yonne was being rebuilt. I didn’t fancy the tower Crane swinging over our heads. This lock is one with both sloping sides but luckily we were the only boat in it so could drift.

Dutton dry dock Runcorn dry dock Hesfords slipway ABC (Anderton) floating dry dock Uplands Marina (Anderton) slipway Wincham Wharf crane and (I think) dry dock Middlewich dry dock (in the lock flight) Kings Lock slipway Orchard Marina dry dock is no more.

More from this day 2010 Jebus

Air venturi in the burner jet assembly is obstructed, needs cleaning.

The fridge?

Seven years life from a lead acid battery is pretty good, so replacing like with like would be my approach.

Surprises me as well, he is quick to criticise my use of a word in another thread but seems to lack a general level of knowledge of many subjects.

Thank you for all the helpful advice. My stay in Liverpool was excellent. The trip through the docks was spectacular, our mooring couldn't have been better, and Liverpool has a real buzz to it. Just strolling around, people watching and visiting the touristy sites put a permanent smile on my face. I don't think, in the previous posts, anyone mentioned Mathew St. That's a place no one should miss. We were there the weekend of the Euro final so perhaps the city was a bit livelier than normal. Queues waiting to get into bars at 5 o clock was quite common. Yes, Liverpool should be on everyone's "must visit" list. The only downside was the amount of weed we encountered getting there. From bridge 17 southwards the going was heavy and slow. The end result made it bearable however.

OK, I said I wasn't going to do anything more to this thing and excepting repairs, that was it, but I couldn't resist. 😀 The usual failure mode of the Sureflow and Jabsco water pumps commonly fitted is to start leaking from the pump body. When this happens upstream of the pressure sensor it can continue to leak for a long time as you are not clued in by the pump cycling every so often as the water system depressurises. I've ended up having to pump a lot of water out of the cabin bilge as a result in the past. Someone gave me a couple of very simple water sensors, suitable for Arduino and other PLC's. They are interlaced combs of exposed circuit board tracks, across which a voltage is placed. Any water on the circuit board and the resistance across the combs decreases. The more water, the lower the resistance. They are available for a few pounds. Example. Since it was free and there were still a few unused I/O pins on the Arduino that controls my combined solar controller, calorifier temperature gauge and water tank level gauge, I thought, why not! The sensor was mounted on to an old baking tray, which will sit under the pump, with a bit of Kingspan/Celotex type extruded insulation to damp any vibration. There are three pins on the sensor, 5V power, ground and signal. You don't want to power this thing up continuously as this risks electrochemical corrosion of the circuit board tracks, like a boat on a shore line without a galvanic isolator, or similar. To do this, the 5V in line is powered by a digital output pin, that is energised only when taking a measurement. After testing it with a shorter time of one minute between measurements, I've programmed it to energise for 10ms once an hour. Experiments with measuring the sensor pin values while dipping the sensor in an egg cup of water suggested that 200 out of 1023 as a suitable threshold for the analogue read. I'm not going to put the whole sketch here. If anyone wants to see it, PM me. The LED's on the display show cauliflower temperature for 6 seconds and water gauge level for 3 seconds with a half second gap between each every ten seconds. If a leak from the pump is detected, then during the water gauge 3s display, all four level LED's will light up. This will carry on happening for an hour until the next 10ms measurement. If it is still wet, then it will carry on doing this until hopefully someone notices! All the LED's lighting is a warning. There is a similar thing for the cauliflower being over temperature during the 6s part of the display sequence. There is no real need to have made this. I could just as easily look in the water tank cupboard and see if it is wet! Jen The sensor mounted to the baking tray. Ready for the water pump to sit inside. I should probably drill an overflow hole in the tray near the top to prevent the components at the top of the sensor getting wet.

A lip on the inside of the roof edge hand rail to stop me slipping off. Swims that make the boat a pleasure to use. Adequate sound proofing around the power unit - no matter what the energy used.

Popcorn check Comfy seat check Internet connection ok check Lol

Making an assumption that your calorifier is copper, there is advice about drinking water that has come from a 'hot copper source' Government advice : Avoid cooking with or drinking water from hot water taps, because hot water dissolves copper more readily than cold water does. Cold water is not affected in the same way. I was always taught not to drink any water that has come via a 'hot tap' and the first 'bit' that is cold should either be left to run down the drain or used to water plants, etc etc but NEVER drunk. Filtering does not remove the copper out of the water.

Fry is a pompous arse. Just my opinion of course. He was great in Black Adder goes Forth but after that.......

Not if they don't catch you.....