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I humbly accept that it was Varneys Lock. I wholeheartedly apologise to those I have disagreed with. Since the accident I have honestly believed it was Cropredy Lock. Hey ho! Onwards and upwards.

Update: CRT came yesterday. They agree it is too hard to operate the bridge. They will suggest that the contractor be called in to rectify.

In the interests of equality I really wish more women would expose themselves....

Maffi has been anything but rude to me in all the years I have known him. He is mildly eccentric, but so what. if you take the time to talk to him rather than abusing him over a platform, I am sure you would see another side to him. I get on with all different types of members on this forum, many having completely different views to my, why? Because we are boaters

I don't think Howard's comment was OTT at all. There are lots of bits of equipment on a boat that could be considered as non-vital. Do you really need an inverter for example which are also relatively recent introductions to leisure boats? For some reason whenever people have genuine BT related mechanical or electrical questions some people feel the need to start a debate about whether they need a BT. It's been done a thousand times already on this forum and I agree with Howard that it is unhelpful. Mine doesn't.

Welcome to the world of Maffi where the norm is being rude, arrogant, swearing at others and generally thinking he owns the canal system. Just another day in his world...but of course those of us that point it out or have been on the end of his canal abuse are just liars.

Just say you are a friend of @nicknorman They will see you alright ?

Some people have all the luck!!

I had a very busty women fully expose herself to me near Wolverhampton a few years ago, it was a bit of a shock. She had a summer dress on and lifted it up over her head and had nothing on underneath.

Thats where you are going wrong, either dont drop it in the first place, or pick it up yourself, or expect to get stick off Maffi when he has to pick it up for you and everyone else. Don't tell me, you own so many properties and pay so much council tax that someone else should do it for you.... ?

A bit harsh I reckon. I have got to know Mr Maffi over the years, not as a friend as such more passing boaters in the day. He is passionate about the canals and he does go out of his way to litter pick to the extent that he picks up stuff bigger than you’d think. People who abuses the canals and towpaths wind him up. I have read posts where he could be described as abrupt and possible rude. Get to know him better and yours and others opinions may change. I know he is more than capable to ‘look after himself’, but felt something ought to be said.

You get pinned between the tiller and the rail and suffer chest injuries. The issue of getting swiped by the tiller is one of low likelihood but high consequence. You make your choice based on your personal view of the risk. There’s no right or wrong.

I think that is the point I was trying to make but badly. Below the waterline we clean any scrapes or other mishaps back to bare metal and recoat with epoxy (and also antifoul but that is a whole set of other issues) we don't use Pioneer. Between waterline and strake there are several coats of Pioneer (one each time we drydock) on top of the epoxy. Anything that scrapes through that to bare metal may be touched up with ordinary primer if it's lucky and then pioneer, or just pioneer. Apart from scrapes there is little deterioration on that surface which is vertical and dry most of the time so that works fine. Above the strake as seen in the photos there is 2 pack polyurethene on top of epoxy as is the cabin. The cabin top has had extra coats of poly at different times since the original painting but it and the deck are now (14 years from the original paint) starting to show signs of loss of adhesion of the base epoxy as water can stand here. I shall put another coat on this summer ( if I am allowed out ) to try and keep it going otherwise it will be back to bare metal but I am putting that off as long as possible. I am a messy painter and mixing 2 pack is a nuisance but I am happier with it than conventional paints and it does dry reasonably quickly. The area that we have used Pioneer on is where most scrapes occur and is so easy to touch up. The Green bit isn't but I just touch up with ordinary acrylic and overcoat the whole lot with 2 pack poly when we dry dock - it doesn't seem to mind. Incidentally the SML acrylics are reasonably quick dry. Hope that makes sense!

You have been informed of the dangers, you can now make an informed choice, at least the forum has taken the responsibilty of explaining the dangers, you are now free to ignore the advice or follow it.

Whether my comment is a bit OTT or not is a matter of opinion - you have your and I have mine and there is room for varying views on what I am often reminded is a discussion forum. As for the ret of your comments, I don’t disagree particularly with anything you say but was merely trying to answer the original query which was for the OP to get a flavour of what might be involved in sorting it out. As often happens, however, whenever bow thrusters are mentioned, the discussion quickly morphs into the merits and demerits of having one on board, which is always guaranteed to bring out a variety of views. I have my own opinions but to some forum members I must be considered totally beyond the pale having not only a bow thrust but also a stern thrust! Ah well, one day I might learn how to use that tiller thingy. ? Howard

It was the Streetwise staff was threatened, who then refused to go near them. Seems a couple of the Council Marina Staff from Wisbech went down and had a word while serving court eviction papers (Big chaps according to fellow moorer whos shop overlooks the moorings). And the local elections next month may also have something to do with it. As the Town Bridge is a common place for candidates to tout for votes and seating councilers don't wish to be put on the spot. If a voter asks 'Why have you failed to remove these boats?'

Indeed. It will be a big local story down here. Will keep all appraised.

Exactly, thats why you never sit or stand within the arc of the tiller. They are known as suicide seats for a good reason. If you want to sit down whilst steering either buy a trad-stern boat, or convert your steering to a wheel.

A 24 year old from Weybridge arrested.

Having taken the boat out for the first time since last Summer. Needing to buy plywood, I cruised through town to turn round passed the railway bridge before returning to the March Town Centre moorings which have since been cleared of baton tossers by the Council apart from three who are screaming human rights' and refuse to move. The number of boats moored on end of garden moorings is much reduced. At least 50 boats have either gone or been sold since last year. Many well now be in the London area now.

It was definitely Varney's lock ... I believe Mike the boilerman had some personal testimony ... but he's no longer here. Rog

I don't think that comment was unhelpful and I do think yours is a bit OOT. Bow thrusters are a comparative recent fitment to leisure boats, especially inland boats and narrowboats in particular. Bow thrusters are far from vital equipment so when one is faced with a large bill its logical the consider if the faulty equipment is really needed. I would suggest Tracy's comment was spot on advice that the OP is free to accept or reject. By your logic if a light fitment fails one should replace it whatever the costs rather than do without it. If a fridge fails one should replace it even though its October so it won't be needed for months and even then it's not absolutely vital, its only convenient so a bit like a bow thruster. One thing is for sure, its only leaking oil out, not water into the boat so the next time its out for blacking welding over the tube would almost certainly cost less than the repair or replacement.

As a bit of a lockdown project I have been developing a web site as an outlet for my photographs of Historic Narrow Boats. The site was started in January 2021 and is very much a work in progress especially on the menu presentation. It will almost certainly contain a few errors which I would be happy to be told about so that I can correct them. The site is at: http://www.timshistoricnarrowboatphotos.uk/index.../homepage Enjoy

It may well have been luck. He was indeed told about it on Wednesday when moored at the junction, although I don’t know by who. Anyway, for whatever reason it was a remarkably easy trip up. A damn sight easier than Lapworth was last September, a flight I would normally class as straightforward.

You really need a chill pill. Does any of this really effect life?

Those that have them have, usually, made their own from suitable wood. There is a danger if that seat is used when cruising as I am sure you are aware, if the rudder hits something it can swing the tiller and knock anyone sat on that seat into the water very much into the vicinity of that big metal whirly thing, nasty.

Or Wilkinsons etc. Trouble is its getting harder and harder to find retail packs of lower API spec oil as recommended for BMCs etc. I think the cheapest way is to find much lesser known brands from wholesalers/farm suppliers/motor factors and buy in bulk. As soon as you see "Classic" on the label you know the price will have been hiked.

It was taken to Cropredy to be taken out. That was the canoe club only place they could get a crane into lift it!

A few years ago I did a job for a northern brewery. In the canning department, there were several different products getting filled ranging from cheap supermarket "own-brand" to the premium brands. All got filled with the exactly the same beer. I guess this applies to loads of products. Despite that I always use Comma Classic 20w50 in my BMC 1.5 - maybe I should save a few quid and go to Halfords!

But you do need to be VERY careful what you claim for, as the part of the house you have claimed as an office will / can become subject to capital gains tax when you sell the house.

Absolutely! I have the same argument with them every time - plus arguing that as a narrowboat I only need one gate opened at any time. I remember speaking to the (then retired) locky who had first put up signs saying the paddles should be wound down. He had meant that after dropping the paddles (under their own weight, of course) you should check, using the windlass if necessary, that they had seated themselves properly and he was almost screaming with frustration at his signs being mis-interpreted in the way they are now.

Why do you want the biggest possible boat that will fit? That will be a pig to negotiate, for you and for every other boater around you. The official dimensions are indicative and to be used for guidance. You may well find pinch points which your theoretically possible boat won't actually pass, particularly with regard to water depth, but also bridge headroom, where the available height through arched bridges is dependent on the width of the cabin top. Is this boat going to be kept on a permanent mooring? If not are you familiar with the rules on 'continuous cruising'? If you design your boat to just fit between Liverpool and Manchester then what happens when you are not 'mainly' boating on this section?

My thoughts exactly. Nice cuddly things mink? I used to have a good slogan. Help save our wildlife Murder a mink ?

A lot of people will already know all about condensation, but for those that aren't so sure, I thought some ideas might help. If you have a number of windows on your boat, then you will certainly know about condensation problems this time of the year. Double glazing will make a huge difference to the condensation on the windows as well as reducing heat loss immensely and cutting out the constant draughts due to convection. (See the double glazing thread if you want to know more LINK) That is just basic physics, but there is also the perceived idea that stopping the window condensation will increase it elsewhere. That is not neccesarily true, but is sometimes seen as such. Any given mass of air will be able to absorb a fixed ammount of moisture before it becomes saturated. The higher the temperature of that air, the more moisture it can contain. The air volume of a boat is much smaller than a house, so the saturation point arrives quicker than a house would. As windows are usually the coldest surface of the boat and the biggest heat loss, they will reduce the temperature of the air next to them until the dew point is reached and the water condenses on the cold surface. If we double glaze the windows, the air will not make contact with the cold surface and the moisture will be retained as the overall air temperature will remain higher. The downside though is that the air will still contain the moisture as it hasn't chucked it on the windows, so is likely to deposit it on other cold surfaces. Boats tend to be very variable in the quality of insulation, but generally, any hidden surface, under beds, behind furniture, inside cupboards, behind curtains, is going to have little access to the warmer air, which tends to rise. the colder air will reach the colder surfaces and quickly reach dewpoint giving condensation. As these areas are hidden most of the time, moisture will be absorbed into the surroundings, giving mildew and promoting rot. So what can we do about it? Well there are number of things, all or any of which can make a big difference. We need to replace the saturated moist air with drier air, so ventilation with outside drier air is essential. Naturally in sub zero conditions we tend to keep everything closed up, but certainly during the day, try to open the odd window or the hatch for a while, even if you need to boost the heat a little. A solid fuel stove always draws in air to burn, so a fresh air supply near the stove will bring air in, without creating draughts everywhere. Leave cupboard doors open where possible and leave air gaps behind furniture and under beds. One idea which works very well is to use very low power consumption computer fans to circulate air in otherwise unventilated areas. This will help to move the warmer air around the boat and prevent the closed in areas reaching dew point. Any cold smooth area is likely to promote condensation, but one area which is often overlooked is water pipes. All year round, but particularly in the Winter, the fresh water pipes are extremely cold. As they are frequently run around the edges of the boat, they pass under beds, through cupboards, behind skirtings etc. They will be dripping with condensation if unlagged and are a large contributor to low level moisture. The dripping water will be absorbed into the surrounding woodwork and anything near them, giving mould, mildew and leading to rot. It can be stopped by using very cheap foam pipe lagging from any DIY store, over all of the pipes, hot and cold. ALL smooth areas behind cupboards, under beds, lockers, should be covered with something like thin cord carpet, which should be glued firmly to the surface, leaving no airgaps behind. This should also be carried out on all closed in floor areas, to avoid the bottoms of boxes or stored clothes absorbing moisture. Cut down on production of moisture, by only boiling as much water as you need. Don't leave the kettle on the stove all day, it will give you constant hot water, but also massive ammounts of airborne moisture. Boil the kettle when you need it and save any surplus in a large vaccuum flask. Try to have a window open next to where you are boiling saucepans or kettles. When possible, dry any towels or washing outside the boat. Don't let washing up drip dry, use a tea towel then dry it outside. All these things will save recirculating the same moisture. Finally, you can remove some moisture from the air by using a dehumidifier if you have hookup or a plentiful power supply. Much cheaper, is a few breakfast bowls half full of table salt around the boat, which will absorb considerable ammounts of water. It can be refreshed regularly for liitle cost or even dried out and reused if you can dry it away from the boat. I'm sure others will have useful additions that I have forgotten, but I hope that some of this will help to make the winter less damp and more enjoyable. Roger