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Bee last won the day on May 27

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  1. Do it on land. I've fitted out boats on water and its a right hassle, Mud, bikes, everybody wants to talk, no storage, b****** rain. I've also fitted out and refitted a boat on land, so much easier. store stuff under the boat, get a bench/pile of pallets of some sort and you can cut sheets of ply and bigger stuff out of the boat, rig a waterproof sheet in some corner and you can work under it. Absolutely no question about it. I know its the wrong side of Bridgnorth for Stafford but Roys yard at Stourport is good and also Sirius yachts at Stourport has hard standing, Roys yard is right by Sirius yachts, electric, water, fence, recommended as I fitted out my boat there.
  2. Its a crap time of the year to replace two shock absorbers and brakes on a car too. soaking wet and horribly cold. Nothing to do with boating but just thought I'd have a moan.
  3. Those Penichettes are actually pretty good boats, I don't know what the interior is like or what they are like to live on but whoever designed them actually knew what he was doing - not always the case with some boatbuilders.
  4. At that budget you do have some options. What I would do (not always the best plan!) is to buy a boat in Holland. Look in Boten te Koop and see what looks interesting Most boats in Holland are steel. the cheaper end of the market tend to be Westlanders and similar, Kagenaars, Praams and the like, these are not great big barges, the dutch think of them as punts but they tend to be cheap, easy to crane out, not hard to repair in case of corrosion and can make nice little homes, don't think of crossing the channel though. Small Tjalks and similar can be really lovely boats, great big versions can be very nice but, as always, big boats cost big money and big maintainance bills. Luxemotors and bigger barges cost even more and, of course the bigger the boat the bigger the licence fees, mooring fees - everything. I would avoid cruisers, they can be great in summer, mot so good in winter. Be careful, steel rusts, plating can be thin, get a proper hull survey, I would buy a narrowboat without a survey as I have some confidence in some boaty things. I would not buy a Dutch boat without a survey, there is just too much experience needed, in my case 40 years is not enough. However, you do have enough money to do it so go for it (carefully)
  5. interesting. Its expensive when you borrow money to buy the boat, the mooring is dear and the car .... £296 for oil and filter and a couple of tyres! The lessons are that you need to do all your own maintanence (if you can). As soon as I finish this I will be finishing off my sons MOT failure, 2 new shock absorbers £58, 2 discs, £28, set of brake pads £20 labour £0, cost of MOT £40, £150 ish. (please don't bring your MOT failures round to my house!) When I moved on to a boat donkeys years ago it was an opportunity to save money, now it just seems to be another way to get stuck with little chance of saving enough to move on.
  6. If what Alan says is correct then as part of the project you might have to think about getting a bulkhead of some sort (of what height I do not know) between the engine compartment and the cabin so you might as well put one at the front well deck too. Might be an idea to buy a cheap arc welder and some scrap steel to practice on.
  7. What Dr. Bob says about testing the coating to find out if its bitumen or epoxy is quite true. Coal tar epoxy is now banned but if you give it a wipe with thinners or white spirit you may well get a bit of brown rubbing off. This might have misled the surveyor, it might also mislead the boatyard. If the previous owner said its epoxy I would believe him, it is very likely coal tar epoxy.
  8. If a few tons makes a big difference you could leave the ballast out until it goes in the water then lift the floorboards to put the ballast in later. That means that you will make the floor in removable sections which is a Good Thing. Good luck, its a big job.
  9. Probably find that if you smoke a couple of fags in the tunnel you will have more CO in your blood than a bit from the stove. Don't suppose steam boats used to put the fire out.
  10. Nice sunny day so made a couple of brass stars for our boat and a brass plate for a lucky person with a Russell Newbery
  11. Bee


    Definitely better than that Brunel.
  12. As others have quite correctly said the solenoid is clicking in and out but also the battery has to have enough 'oomph' to send the pistons flying up the bores fast enough to compress the air, make it hot, and fire the fuel spray.
  13. An inch of fuel in most tanks is an empty tank. The pick up pipe will stop short of the bottom to avoid sucking water and sludge.
  14. Whining and shuddering sounds like clutch plates or maybe a bearing broken up. If you have lots of spanners I would unbolt the gearbox and have a look at the drive plate, if that seems ok then you probably need to take it to a gearbox person. Primrose Engineering? (edit) Has it got enough / any oil in it?
  15. There is more than one way of looking at this, My way is that as most boats, especially canal boats are 'one offs' then its hard to turn out perfect boats every time. I would be happy to accept minor niggles and correct them myself. It is really very important to get to know your boat as boats are not like white goods or mass produced cars. Boats go wrong, stuff rusts, breaks, fails etc. and you need to be able to diagnose and fix it otherwise it will cost you a lot of money. Any recourse to law will lead to tears and months of stress. In fact I would actually expect to find faults in a brand new boat. The other way of looking at this is to assume the builders are experts and will supply your boat in new and faultless condition, on time and also you assume that they are skilled, and actually know a lot about boats.This is often not the case at all. If your boat is 99% OK then it would be better to try to get the work done and hope the builder will share the cost. Pragmatism is a hell of a lot cheaper than years of legal bills.
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