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Bee last won the day on May 27 2019

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  1. The engine will be working harder when it has a load on it so it will run much hotter than with no load. The thermostat will regulate this by opening more so it appears to run steadily at 70 C but temp gauges can be unreliable beasts as can their senders and I would guess that if you put your hand on the engine when its running in gear it could well feel hotter than out of gear even if it still says 70 C. A bit more expansion could lead to a bit of water dribbling out of the overflow. If it was in a van you would never even know. I would just keep an eye on the gauge and after a year or two you will forget all about it.
  2. I had an old Ford Fiesta with a nice flat head but the damned block was not level. Stupid car.
  3. On the face of it the blokes a prat but as others have said, these stories are always going the rounds. Can I suggest he's done the MR a favour?, just like air sea rescue, lifeboats, coastguards, ambulance services and firemen who frequently get called out for silly sods bitten by crabs, run out of marmalade, missed the last bus, heads stuck in railings etc. Its invaluable training so when I climb Ben Bevis in my slippers and run out of fags the services will be well trained, ready for anything and will have sticking plasters for my blisters. Just a thought.
  4. I could have put it better. Ultimately a surveyor must OK a checklist but I do think that slavishly following the rules leads to many boats being boringly identical. There are probably half a dozen ways of installing that most risky of things, a solid fuel stove that are safe, compliant, and efficient. Most of them end up in the starboard front corner but halfway down the boat could be a better place ,(it works better for thermosyphon systems) or even right at the back. Working to a checklist like the BSS can make it very easy for boatfitters, professionals and for those of us who cannot or don't want to pay other people just reproduce the same old formula. Nobody wants dangerous boats, people manage to do daft things quite well in spite of the rules but the more regulations there are the more predictable and dull the boats become.
  5. I think everybody is agreed its a big project but if you do everything by the book, worried about the pointless RCD, had professionals in to do all the tricky bits, tried too hard to comply with all the CRT rules and regs and saw problems at every turn nobody except the wealthy would ever get a boat. I reckon its because of this that half the people on narrowboats these days can't fix anything that goes wrong, can only buy and sell through brokers, keep an army of surveyors in work, all have identical boats and if I don't stop right now I will upset a lot of people and get another warning so I will go and do the washing up.
  6. Very good material in fact, I have used it on a ply boat roof some years ago and it used to be a normal thing (on railway carriages???) I laid it on synthaprufe then used every half empty tin of gloss paint in the shed before top coating it. It soaks up a hell of a lot of paint, lasts for years, has a reasonable non slip surface and is not hard to remove. These days I wouldn't use it as lorry side curtain material is available new (and secondhand) I would not be surprised if Mr. Alpha 95 ends up knowing a lot of practical boaty stuff in a few years. However, if I could just mention grammar, in the first post it really should be ' My girlfriend and I' and not 'Myself and my girlfriend'. Can I be a member of the pedants club now, please?
  7. You have taken on a big project. Whereabouts are you? You could really do with someone who knows stuff having a quick look. It does indeed sound like an old Springer. I would imagine that the steel that came with the boat was for overplating the bottom. I would suggest that you find a welder and get him to give an idea of the cost of the work. I would not worry about ballast yet. Has it got holes cut for sink waste water, exhaust, air intake for engine if there is or was one? I would weld these up and start again when you fit it out, they should be well clear of the waterline. The only way to ensure a waterproof join is to have a steel 'upstand' welded to the 'side deck' You might not end up with a perfect boat with this project but it doesn't matter, you might sell it on for a small profit and get something else, who knows? You will accumulate some skills and stuff and useful tools and starting with a old steel boat is a better place than starting with a rotten old wooden boat and no money like some of us did. Good luck!
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  9. If you sandblast the inside of a boat you might as well re fit the whole thing, its the only way to get the sand out.
  10. Does the boat go OK? Are you looking for better shove or holding back power? If you are happy with its performance I would look at overhauling the present engine (And checking that the present propeller is a really good match for it as well, the propeller is the important thing, the engine is sort of secondary) Personally I would not choose a BMC 1.5 to go into a newbuild but if I had a boat and there was a running BMC in it I would happily live with it.
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  12. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  13. I don't understand the problem with a Vetus waterlock, I,'ve got one on Bee (and it didn't cost me £100 + either, stupid price) but it is put together with a Vetus anti syphon valve on a separate bit of pipe (and that didn't cost £90+ either, try boat jumbles) trouble free and not complicated. As an aside how the hell do Vetus justify the prices they charge?
  14. Dunno but I've got a place on my wall for Farage's head.
  15. Unless you have to make a decision very quickly I would have a bit of a holiday on it when the weather gets a bit better and then make a decision. Boats are expensive things, licence and other fees are steep these days so to get value out of it could be hard and it is a depreciating asset. You do really need to be an enthusiast to take on a boat.
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