GUMPY

Get the guy that tests to tell you the procedure

This shows all you need to do prior to connecting the usb adapters and after as well

Take the ends off and inspect them if ok replace them. Beg borrow or steal an insulation tester or a Portable Appliance Tester and test with that. Both do a similar job.

You don't really need to plug anything in to test it, worst case is a usb socket doesn't work. You can set it up with nothing connected take it there plug in and that's it. To get any meaningful readings you would need: battery, MPPT, solar panel Battery, smart shunt, load or charger. But it's not needed to configure it as it does it itself apart from date and time, VRM and WiFi. USB GPS puck would be the simplest to test usb sockets and give you some data to see under VRM. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355916661195? I did make a spare USB/Victron cable just in case I had a failure but I didn't need it.

There's not much needs setting up it's really just configure date/time, WiFi and VRM settings, then plug the units in. The WiFi is the hardest bit as you need the router local to the Pi. After that it can all be easily done remotely as there is really nothing to do. I am having trouble with Venus OS 3.51 loading, suggest you stay on 3.42.

Running a Pi 3 It's 4 that had the power increase. There are 4 USB things hanging off it including a GPS which all consume power. It's about 8 watts in total.

I got bored! Despite the system working very well for the last ten months I decided to get a Pi and cables and have a play. Having worked out that there is a ttl port in the IP22 charger it pushed me on to build a full Pi/Venus system. It's simplicity in itself and works very well although I don't have connection to the battery but it's not needed with a smart shunt. There is however a downside😟 My present system draws less than 0.2amps which I can happily live with even when there is no sun like this week. However the Pi system draws >0.6amps which although it's probably low enough to work over winter I may see the battery deplete further than I would like. I have fitted a sonoff 12v switch so can disable the whole shebang when I don't need readings and enable it when I do, this means there is no data trail but then there wasn't with the old system. Did I say I got bored🫣

This is most likely the reason. Is it raw water or heat exchanger cooled. The first one is best replaced if possible, the second is fine. HE cooled ones often have a wet exhaust. I ran HE cooled engines on the canals for 20 years with no problems.

Seem to remember the sides of a Morso were not bricks as such but sheet and only about half inch thick and that it supported the baffle. Same at the back. To me from the picture it looks like the sheets are in place. To reduce the firebox size instead of the expensive metal things you can use an engineering brick each side.