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I cannot for the life of me find a like for like replacement for the fuse for the 220 whale gulper. I read that it takes a '5 amp automotive fuse', however it's a cartridge fuse shape but longer than standard household fuse and I am unsure if it is a slow blow or not. Can someone help? I'd love to get my hands on a pack of 10 so I can label them in my fuse box and never have to worry about it blowing again....... thanks in advance! I cant believe I've written slow blow in the internet.....
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What size is it?  Length x diameter in mm.

If it is the cylindrical glass type a Google on length x diameter numbers and "5A glass fuse" should find some.

 

I can see no reason to need a slow blow fuse.

 

If you are not just seeking spares, you should really investigate why the Gulper has blown its fuse.

N

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11 minutes ago, BEngo said:

What size is it?  Length x diameter in mm.

If it is the cylindrical glass type a Google on length x diameter numbers and "5A glass fuse" should find some.

 

I can see no reason to need a slow blow fuse.

 

If you are not just seeking spares, you should really investigate why the Gulper has blown its fuse.

N

 

Glass fuses longer than household ones (25mm/1") used to be common, I've got various ones in my toolbox. Still widely available e.g. https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/p-673-glass-cartridge-fuse-25mm

 

 

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11 minutes ago, bizzard said:

A card of fuse wire usually has 5amp wire on it. Twist a bit of it around the prongs for the time being.

A short piece of 4 or 6 inch nail works too! 😈

 

N

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47 minutes ago, BEngo said:

What size is it?  Length x diameter in mm.

If it is the cylindrical glass type a Google on length x diameter numbers and "5A glass fuse" should find some.

 

I can see no reason to need a slow blow fuse.

 

If you are not just seeking spares, you should really investigate why the Gulper has blown its fuse.

N

 

From the manual:

 

In-Line Fuse Assembly

Purpose

The purpose of this fuse is to protect the pump from

serious damage in the event of system blockages,

therefore please ensure all valves are fully open before

operating the pump.

Connection Instructions

Insert this fuse assembly between the positive terminal

on the pump and the positive feed wire.

Note:

1. If the fuse blows check:

a) all system valves/stop cocks are open.

b) the inlet and outlet nipples are not blocked

c) the remainder of the system is not blocked in any

way.

2. Fuse rating for BP1552 (12v DC) pumps 5 amp

automotive. Fuse rating for BP2554 (24v DC) pumps

2.5 amp automotive

To control the pump an in-line switch should be fitted

between the positive live terminal on the battery and

the positive lead on the pump. If using an automatic

switch (such as a float switch) an isolator switch

should be fitted.

 

https://www.manua.ls/whale/gulper-220/manual

 

 

Edited by MtB
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1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

Or some silver-foil (cigarette pack stuff was good) wrapped around the old fuse will get you going.

But you will have no fuse protection.

That's exactly how my dad kept our television going when, with friends and neighbours gathered around, it failed on Coronation Day.

 

Mind you, it was the Queens coronation and the television a 9" screen Pye resplendent in a wooden cabinet.  Last time I went the Imperial War Museum had one as part of a display.  

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1 minute ago, frangar said:

They were quite readily available in halfords and other such car places....any decent motor factors should do one...Gulphers usually only blow a fuse if they are gummed up with something.

 

Curious, because I don't think I've ever seen 30mm glass fuses used in a car. 

 

Not since about 1960 that is. Modern cars seem to use spade type fuses, and prior to that, those horrendous 'bullet' fuses.

 

 

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Just now, MtB said:

 

Curious, because I don't think I've ever seen 30mm glass fuses used in a car. 

 

Not since about 1960 that is. Modern cars seem to use spade type fuses, and prior to that, those horrendous 'bullet' fuses.

 

 

Well ive got them from various motor factors over the years....some of us still run vintage cars!!...BL was still using them in the 70's & 80's

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I still miss the tin foil wrapped KitKat.  Pull into Petrol Station, ask if they sell fuses.  Usually find out they didn't.  Buy KitKat, consume said item, wrap blown fuse in foil and continue on. 🙂

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17 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

From the manual:

 

In-Line Fuse Assembly

Purpose

The purpose of this fuse is to protect the pump from

serious damage in the event of system blockages,

therefore please ensure all valves are fully open before

operating the pump.

Connection Instructions

Insert this fuse assembly between the positive terminal

on the pump and the positive feed wire.

Note:

1. If the fuse blows check:

a) all system valves/stop cocks are open.

b) the inlet and outlet nipples are not blocked

c) the remainder of the system is not blocked in any

way.

2. Fuse rating for BP1552 (12v DC) pumps 5 amp

automotive. Fuse rating for BP2554 (24v DC) pumps

2.5 amp automotive

To control the pump an in-line switch should be fitted

between the positive live terminal on the battery and

the positive lead on the pump. If using an automatic

switch (such as a float switch) an isolator switch

should be fitted.

 

https://www.manua.ls/whale/gulper-220/manual

 

 

super commenting here - thanks indeed!

1 hour ago, BEngo said:

What size is it?  Length x diameter in mm.

If it is the cylindrical glass type a Google on length x diameter numbers and "5A glass fuse" should find some.

 

I can see no reason to need a slow blow fuse.

 

If you are not just seeking spares, you should really investigate why the Gulper has blown its fuse.

N

I am happy the gulper came across some debris which accidentally got past the plug filter gummed it up and caused it to overload, I've since cleaned hoses and checked the pump is operating normally (gland not ruptured etc) by holding the fuse contacts together. So yes i am looking for spares and am confident I've found the problem.

57 minutes ago, bizzard said:

A card of fuse wire usually has 5amp wire on it. Twist a bit of it around the prongs for the time being.

didn't they discontinue them after the Boer war?

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a good workaround , especially for a relatively low rating of fuse is just to use a standard blade type automotive fuse, cut the old in line fuse holder off and fit 1/4" female spade connectors (blue or red crimp would be fine) to the wire ends. the blade fuse will fit in the spade connectors and you can buy automotive blade fuses for pence.. 

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2 hours ago, Ken X said:

I still miss the tin foil wrapped KitKat.  Pull into Petrol Station, ask if they sell fuses.  Usually find out they didn't.  Buy KitKat, consume said item, wrap blown fuse in foil and continue on. 🙂

Great minds..................fan belt gone, ask partner for stockings............and tie over pulley and waterpump............a gent always offer to replace items.......................I said replace not refix!!!!!!

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17 minutes ago, LEO said:

Great minds..................fan belt gone, ask partner for stockings............and tie over pulley and waterpump............a gent always offer to replace items.......................I said replace not refix!!!!!!

 

When I was novice sales rep I was under the tutelage of a senior sales rep who had been on the road from not much after the end of WW2.

He had a never ended list of stories of 'living on the road'.

 

The one that always stuck in my mind was getting a puncture.

The car had no spare wheel (very expensive to have a spare due to the shortage of steel and rubber) so when he got a puncture it was a case of 'off with the wheel, off with the tyre, stuff the tyre with grass pulled from the roadside, put tyre 'half back on' and further stuff it as tight as possible. That would last long enough to finish the days 'round' and get to a garage in the evening.

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2 hours ago, jonathanA said:

a good workaround , especially for a relatively low rating of fuse is just to use a standard blade type automotive fuse, cut the old in line fuse holder off and fit 1/4" female spade connectors (blue or red crimp would be fine) to the wire ends. the blade fuse will fit in the spade connectors and you can buy automotive blade fuses for pence.. 

 

Or just fit a proper automotive blade type fuse holder. They cost very little.

 

Things like spare fuses and fuse holders should be in every boater's box of bits, so just order some from Amazon or eBay.

Edited by blackrose
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38 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Or just fit a proper automotive blade type fuse holder. They cost very little.

 

Things like spare fuses and fuse holders should be in every boater's box of bits, so just order some from Amazon or eBay.

they aren't much better than a couple of spade connectors TBH and the 'cheap /accessory' single ones tend to come with a short length of wire already attached so you end up with some sort of connector arrangement anyway.  I've seen them overheat at modest currents - 10-20A.  

 

but agree sort of thing you should have in your spares box/tool kit along with a decent ratchet crimper (can be had for around a tenner these days) and a selection of quality crimp connectors. 

 

the glass fuses are actually 1.25 inch (32mm) and readily available from places like CPC. 

Edited by jonathanA
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24 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

It is very bad practice to bypass a fuse with wire, nails or silver-foil. You then have no protection in the event of overload

I agree entirely and there are a couple of extra holders in my Morris fuse box for carrying a spare fuse or two.

But, as an impecunious apprentice with an exaggerated sense of immortality, we got a few cars home with lights that worked.  The alternative was a bit too exciting even for us.🙂

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