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LL 1975

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    Tilly Anne
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  1. Nice one Tony, I don’t have a manual but can’t see such a relay (I do know what you mean). I will proceed with working through each glow plug to identify one to isolate for now and, when I can get the part, to replace.
  2. They’re wired in parallel. I don’t understand your next point, let me know if this is what you meant: If @TheBiscuits are correct in that this type of engine has a glow plug relay then the fuse which keeps blowing is probably only feeding the relay coil and that should only draw an amp or so. Pull the relay out and redo the test if the LEDs stay off then the relay coil has probably shorted (burned) out. If the LEDs come on then its a wiring short. if this is what you meant why would there be a 50 amp fuse in place if the draw is only 1 amp? Also given I’ve disconnected the glow plugs and everything seems to be functioning well aren’t I best examining the glow plugs for a fault as a next step. finally I’m not sure what a relay for glow plugs would look like and or where I’d find it.
  3. Ok so seemly some good progress being made. I used 3 x led strips which added up to 60 w so similar draw to the headlamp as suggested (5amp). I identified the glow plugs as the issue and have isolated them. Once isolated everything started as normal. saying that there are no obvious scorching around or near any of the 4 plugs I assume I remove them 1 by 1 and the faulty one should present it self, anything specific to look out for?
  4. What’s the minimum draw ideally?
  5. Don’t laugh will my 12 v led strip work?
  6. Ok, I have my errands done for the day and am in the engine bay now. I don’t have a high wattage bulb with me but have brought my other tools and equipment. I’ve checked for loose and damaged wires but have not looked for scorched parts just yet. You may collectively scold me but I have got the engine started by stripping the fuse of the plastic then pushing the separate blades back into position and clamping my pliers (rubber handled whilst I was also wearing gloves) across both blades and the engine started as normal. I wonder if this tells us anything? I guess what i did was the equivalent of putting an oversized fuse in place. Sorry for being naughty hopefully it wasn’t too idiotic as well. I’m really hoping it’s helped narrow down the issue.
  7. I’ve not ruled this out actually, I replaced this stock originally supplied fuse (see pic) with this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352947479934 any thoughts?
  8. Any other options than a headlight bulb? I’ve got lots of 12v boat stuff but I don’t have this, could I for example put a voltmeter across the 2 terminals? If so what reading range would I be looking for?
  9. Thanks so much Nibble! so my issue here is: 1. I don’t have a large power draw headlight bulb - any suggestions on other options? 2. My totally confused GCE level electric knowledge is bamboozled at the thought I could put a positive and negative wire either side of a fuse (I’m thinking clip crocodile clip on one blade then second clip on the other blade) and somehow it would light up, am I imagining you said that? Where is the negative supply coming from - which lesson did I miss?!
  10. It’s the final turn of the key, so I guess “start”, the point that the key would rotate to turn over the starter motor.
  11. Have an issue with my Canaline 52 HP engine. The ignition panel stopped working a week ago no lights no response when turning the key, the engine wouldn’t start. I located a 50 amp blown fuse on the starter motor and replaced it yesterday. However it promptly blew as soon as I tried to start it again. A bit stuck as to the next move. Thanks in advance LL
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