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Everything posted by IanD

  1. Which proves nothing, other people with different routers have had negative experiences with running them directly from 12V... If people want to try it then it's their decision, it'll either work fine like yours and they'll be happy, or it won't and they'll be unhappy, especially if it dies as a result. To quote Clint: "Do you feel lucky, punk? Well, do ya?"
  2. The BBC TV piece said they've been working towards this for 2 years, so it's hardly a last-minute publicity stunt...
  3. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  4. 12V TVs are designed to run straight from a 12V car/boat system (noisy and 10V-16V min/max?) so won't have any problems. Whether a router designed to run off a nice clean regulated 12V wall-wart will be OK entirely depends on the design of the router -- some will be fine, some may have glitches or hang up or drop the link, others may die completely. For a tenner or so, it doesn't seem worth taking the risk -- but if anyone wants to, it's their choice... 😉
  5. It's not a barrage of flames, numerous people (not just on boats) have found out the hard way that some routers really don't like running directly from an unregulated "12V" supply, and have problems (e.g. link dropping) or die as a result -- they're designed to run from a clean regulated 12V supply with no spikes or transients on it, and providing this (a DC-DC converter) is simple and only costs about a tenner, so it seems a false economy not to do this.
  6. Apart from the cost of the electric install -- of which batteries are the biggest single item if you want a decent sized LFP battery bank -- the other big ticket item is a generator, a cocooned diesel one is at least £10k and there's no reason the costs of these should come down, in fact they've gone up in the last few years. Solar panel costs will continue to fall but until new technologies appear on the market there's no chance of them getting much more efficient, they're already very close to the theoretical limit for silicon panels. The running costs are cheaper, especially if you don't cruise much and can use solar power in summer. But the saving will never make up the higher installation cost -- I did go into the numbers before I had my (hybrid) boat built. The reason for going this way is silent cruising not cost saving, and it does cost more for the boat than a diesel -- if you have a fixed budget you can get a higher quality diesel boat, as pointed out above.
  7. That looks like a decent choice then, if a little bit pricey -- at least it includes SMA-TS9 adaptors so that saves a bit...:-)
  8. If you mean "direct Ethernet connection to the router" this makes no difference, CGNAT/APN are to do with the cellular link to the network, and it makes no difference whether you connect your device to the router over Ethernet or WiFi.
  9. If those are correct they're pretty good, similar to the Panorama dual sharkfin and better than the standard panel omnis. N.B. *If* they're correct, coming from a company with little technical information... 😉
  10. I did say that you need the panels -- however they're connected -- to have enough voltage that the minimum panel voltage is greater than the maximum battery voltage plus MPPT startup margin (typically 5V). So long as you meet this requirement, parallel panels are better in partial shade than series --- for example 1s4p is better than 2s2p which is better than 4s1p. Bypass diodes work when there is no light on one panel, which is not the usual case. I did mention the cable size, but the losses from this should be negligible -- if not, you need thicker cables. In the end, what really matters is getting as much solar on the roof as you can; the exact panel configuration is much less important. But that's what fitted on the roof... 😉 Ended up with two MPPT controllers, one with 4s2p and one with 5s1p. Which has the advantage that you can spot any connection problems by comparing the two outputs...
  11. You think that's bad, I've got 13 panels in a 48V system -- now work out what to do with them... 😉
  12. True, you obviously need the minimum panel voltage to be high enough for the MPPT to start (typically 5V above maximum battery voltage) as well as having the maximum panel voltage below the MPPT rating. Depending on the panel, a single one might not have high enough voltage.
  13. Nope, definitely paid for in the early 80s -- had one for several years. Got a little official stamped card to show to people who didn't believe such a thing existed.
  14. Sorry but that's not correct -- if you have identical panels with no shading it makes no difference to power output whether they're in series or parallel -- series gives higher voltage and lower current, parallel gives lower voltage and higher current, but power is identical.
  15. IanD

    Bratch locks

    ...or about your comments. "Sorry, you've only paid for the five minute pointless argument -- next, please..."
  16. IanD

    Bratch locks

    "Proof of uniqueness is rarely available... unless you can read their number" The last part was your exact words... 😉
  17. I had a towpath cycling license in the early 80s, had to go in to Little Venice for it IIRC. Might have cost a quid or so, I can't remember...
  18. IanD


    If the boat if front is going reasonably fast then I'd agree, just stay some way behing them. But I've been behind boats absolutely crawling along, and if it's a long tunnel -- and especially if the one behind is a trip boat -- then they should let the boat behind past. Tailgating if the front boat is going reasonably fast is just as bad an idea as it is on the roads... 😞
  19. That's not how solar panels work, they act as a current source which maintains a constant current as you raise the voltage across them so power goes up, until you get close to the open-circuit voltage when current starts to drop. There's a voltage where the output power is maximum, amd this is what the MPPT controller tries to find and track. Say you have two 30V panels, one in full sun putting out 15A and one in partial shade putting out 10A. Connect them in parallel and you'll get 25A current, the MPPT controller will hold them at 30V, output power is 750W. Put them in series and the shaded panel will still put out 10A, but the other one can't push any more current through it, so you get 10A into 60V (MPPT voltage) which is 600W. Series connection works and can mean a cheaper MPPT controller and easier wiring, which is why many do it. If you have the choice, parallel connection is better to maximise power under partially shaded conditions.
  20. IanD

    Bratch locks

    but not the numbers, unlike your claim... 😉
  21. IanD


    Isn't it the same as anywhere else -- a slower boat should allow a faster boat to overtake so long as it is safe to do so? There's certainly litle risk overtaking in a tunnel which is wide enough for two boats to pass in opposite directions, with no other boats to hit or things to collide with. But like anywhere else, the boat being overtaken should probably slow down a bit more to prevent an endless "mating elephants" event... 😉
  22. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  23. It's usually better to put identical panels in parallel to combat partial shading; a solar panel is essentially a current source, if you put them in parallel the currents add even with different outputs, if you put them in series the current is that from the lowest output panel. For sure, the *maximum* open-circuit voltage (including variation with temperature) must not exceed the rating of the MPPT controller.
  24. I know the dual sharkfin is a sod to find, but as you say it does have good gain and short cables. The Poynting was the other one I looked at, but IIRC it had a gap around the 1450MHz band (may have changed now). No point going for the 7-in-1, you're just paying more for Wi-Fi antennae you don't need -- but the version without them was very hard to find... I wouldn't trust Maxview, let's just say they sell to a market that will pay a lot for not much... 😉 For the UK you only need to cover down to around 800MHz and up to around 3500MHz (don't have exact frequency issues to hand) -- but make sure the band around 1450MHz is also covered, some miss this out.
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