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My NB is currently being shot blasted and epoxied.  When I get her back I would like to attend to some small rust spots.  Obviously I have read up on the process but I am now confused as to which product to use.  I had come to the conclusion that I was going to use Vactan in preference to fertan (can’t remem how I came to that conclusion) but there seems so many different products I am now totally confused. 

The rust spots are very small and are not noticeable unless you look hard but I would like to get them done.  So the question is which do I use?  I would like to use whichever is the easiest/simplest and obviously most effective.

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I have always found that if you do exactlywhat it says on the bottle Fertan is wholly effective. Jenolite ( phosphoric acid type) on the other hand I have not had success with. Never used Vactan.

Hydrochloric acid ( aka spirits of salts iirc) is very good at ruzt dissolving  but soon rusts again ( about 5 minutes!).

 

N

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What? Your boat is being blasted prior to epoxying and you're considering using a rust converter? 

 

DON'T DO IT! 

 

Any half decent epoxy paint will be 10x better than crap rust converters. They're all rubbish in comparison. Simply use an angle grinder fitted with a wire wheel to prep the rust spots and paint with your epoxy according to the paint manufacturers instructions. Wear eye protection when using wire wheels. 

 

Apologies if I've misunderstood. 

Edited by blackrose
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I guess these rust spots are not in a place where it is being blasted.......but if the are that small then just power tool the rust off and prime with epoxy. Only if it is difficult to remove the rust, like in the engine bay,  is it a good method to us Fertan. I have used Fertan and it has worked very well......but epoxy on clean steel is better.

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Just to confuse, I have used Fertan and found it to be hopeless.

Vactan was much better, as is Kurust.

I acknowledge some people swear by Fertan, so have no idea why we found it a disaster.  We certainly followed the instructions that came with it.  Perhaps we bought from a duff batch?

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If Fertan is used below a certain temperature it does not cure properly. and whatever the temperature it produces black dust (unless totally uncured). This is no such an issue on vertical surfaces where the dust and any uncured product can be easily washed off but it can cause adhesion problems on horizontal surfaces. I am sure Vactan, Kurust & the ilk also have a minimum curing temperature but being some kind of water based emulsion dry without  dust and seem to dry in lower temperatures.

  • Greenie 1
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Thank you all very much for the opinions and advice.  Apologies for the confusion caused by my poor explanation but it is the hull being blasted and epoxied.  Just have to decide which to go with now.  I wish I knew how I had originally decided to use vactan lol

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10 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

Just to confuse, I have used Fertan and found it to be hopeless.

Vactan was much better, as is Kurust.

I acknowledge some people swear by Fertan, so have no idea why we found it a disaster.  We certainly followed the instructions that came with it.  Perhaps we bought from a duff batch?

I have not used Kurst but my experience with Vactan and Fertan are exactly the same as Alan's.

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11 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

Just to confuse, I have used Fertan and found it to be hopeless.

Vactan was much better, as is Kurust.

I acknowledge some people swear by Fertan, so have no idea why we found it a disaster.  We certainly followed the instructions that came with it.  Perhaps we bought from a duff batch?

I have had excellent results with Vactan, though agree with others - no need after blasting.
Never used fertan (yet) but know some who swear by it.

 

ps only use Vactan when it is warmer weather. not sure if this applies to Fertan? edit: Sorry just noticed that Tony Brooks has already addressed this.

Edited by Guest
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2 hours ago, Old Son said:

I have used both and much preferred Vactan. It does not need washing off and does not bleed through primer!!

My findings too. Had a rust patch on the roof that simply would not go away. Vactan has kept it at bay for two years now. No need to wash off and no effect on top coat.

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1 hour ago, Dartagnan said:

Thank you all very much for the opinions and advice.  Apologies for the confusion caused by my poor explanation but it is the hull being blasted and epoxied.  Just have to decide which to go with now.  I wish I knew how I had originally decided to use vactan lol

 

 

But you still haven't cleared up the confusion. Where are these rust spots? On the hull being grit-blasted? Or somewhere else?

 

If on the hull, why is the grit-blasting not dealing with them?

 

 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
Missed a bit
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Oops!  the rust spots are not on the hull but on the bow and stern decks.  As I am having the hull blasted and epoxied upto the gunnels it is only the superstructure that I am concerned with.  I could of course ignore them as I will probably get her repainted in a couple of years but I would like to maintain her the best I can.  ?

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May I just add a comment in mitigation.  I am not stupid but after some medical issues I do now have some cognitive deficiencies and sometimes I do not express myself clearly.  I often think that what I have said or written is clear but obviously that is not the case and I miss material facts out.  This also leads to poor decision making and costly mistakes.  ?

  • Greenie 1
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3 hours ago, Dartagnan said:

Oops!  the rust spots are not on the hull but on the bow and stern decks.  As I am having the hull blasted and epoxied upto the gunnels it is only the superstructure that I am concerned with.  I could of course ignore them as I will probably get her repainted in a couple of years but I would like to maintain her the best I can.  ?

Just done inside our gas locker with Vactan and it appears to have done a good job. Time will tell of course, but from past experience I have confidence in it.

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Used Vactan on the rust in my engine bay (cruiser stern) 10 years ago, it is now time to do it again, just bought a new bottle. I have been pleased with it as it has lasted well on the whole.

  • Greenie 1
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11 hours ago, Dartagnan said:

May I just add a comment in mitigation.  I am not stupid but after some medical issues I do now have some cognitive deficiencies and sometimes I do not express myself clearly.  I often think that what I have said or written is clear but obviously that is not the case and I miss material facts out.  This also leads to poor decision making and costly mistakes.  ?

I think most of the forum members and especially me suffer from the same problem although perhaps not caused by specific medical issues. I would not worry about it at all.

  • Greenie 1
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I’ve been singularly unimpressed with fertan and shocked at the price and difficulty

of getting vactan so bought a litre of craft master rust treatment. Seems to work well and ready for priming or whatever after 4 hours

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Vactan is readily available on Ebay and usually arrives next day in my experience. 

 

Le Tonkenois is also only available from a single source but it’s still readily available from that source. 

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21 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

so bought a litre of craft master rust treatment.

 

The Craftmaster website is remarkably uninformative about this.  I couldn't see it listed in Products, but it is in the online shop.  But all I know is that it costs £24.95. No indication of how much I get for that, or indeed how far it might go.

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8 hours ago, David Mack said:

 

The Craftmaster website is remarkably uninformative about this.  I couldn't see it listed in Products, but it is in the online shop.  But all I know is that it costs £24.95. No indication of how much I get for that, or indeed how far it might go.

going by the previous post 1 litre.

 

neil

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