Boater Sam

Crimping is to a standard pressure, so no, more pressure is not the simple answer. The copper bundle has to fit the crimp correctly before crimping. I have not found any different size crimps for odd sized cable bundles but used to pack the notional size crimp with a strand or twe of copper until it was full before crimping. The hex type crimpers are much better than the crude dent in the back type in my opinion. Probably a non approved way but I don't have failures. Soldering is not recommended as getting rid of all the flux is near impossible.

We used FP200 for fire resistant cabling after we gave up with Pyro. I was never happy with either. Pyro was a lot of messing about and we had lots that had been installed 5 or 6 years previously and had failed insulation tests, some of the alarm installers at the time were terrible cowboys. FP200 was easier to use but the soft silicone insulation had to be treated with respect, staff training had to be strict if we were to avoid installation errors. Never saw Calflam, it sounds interesting Sorry, getting a long way from the topic. No, it comes out slightly smaller with the finer strands, that's the difficulty with getting the correct fit of the crimps. And getting every strand in the crimp take smore care.

Some may be wondering what the flux this is all about. Look at it this way, if the alternator fails in the near future, is it a good make? How old is it? How much work has it done? Does it owe you much? Will a new good one like a Leece Neville Prestolite one break the bank? The economy of materials in cheap alternators limits the maximum flux possible which is why they seldom give out their full rated output.

It is easier to use but crimping rings onto it is more difficult due the the size of the wire bundle and it has to have a pin crimp on the terminal end because it is poor in screw up terminals. It carries current better than 19 strand cable due to the phenomena that most of the current is carried on the outside of each strand, strange but true.

All grease gland I have come across are 1/8" BSP.

The electronics in the regulator contain a zener diode with a positive temperature coefficient and the pass transistor junction has also a + T coefficient. I would expect the 2 to control the regulator output downwards with rising temperature,

Whatever the small pulley driven item is, it would have a right good spin driven off that flywheel. A nice solid lump of history, would the guy with the 28 foot clinker hull be interested? It could solve his problem at a stroke.

Probably an Iskra alternator, Czech, I think, now called Letrika. Beta have used them for ages. Not the best I am told. Diode pack and regulator should be good to 120 degrees C, the enamel insulation on the windings will be 150 degree stuff, it all has been for many years. I wind transformers and that's all I can buy these days. But the temperatures outside will be different than the inside by quite a margin. Due to the drop in output with temperature, provided that there is adequate cooling air available for the fan, the alternator should not suffer at all. We used to run some 24v 100A truck alternators in reverse, they cooled but the wrong way, the back was hotter than the front. They survived OK. The ones that are useless are the ones with aluminium stator windings.

We have no idea of the possible budget for this job but looking at the early pictures of the bilge of the boat I would hazard a guess at extremely little. I certainly would not work in there. As nice as a recon Sabb would be I think it is out of all possibility that he can go down that route especially as he keeps buying unusable scrap. The last one looked a bit better. Any idea how the cooling is on this boat? Bet its raw water. Did see a gearbox oil cooler which must of connected to something once upon a time.

So would I, or a little 2 pot Bukh, and a lot of others would agree but the OP can't even find a BMC 1.5D! His chance of a Bukh or Sabb is even less

New regulator required, not repairable, diaphragm will be holed. Should not be a problem to get a replacement, all the threads in the regulator body are BSP British Standard Pipe and are the same used on the continong.

All perfectly correct but its a long way from just dropping in another engine and on the OPs admission he has not got a clue. How is he going to cope with building and welding engine beds in the correct place in a clinker boat? Does he understand about lining the drive and prop shafts up?

Look, its here, he has rebuilt it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marine-diesel-Bmc-1-5-narrowboat-Engine/123602480713?hash=item1cc7482e49:g:7FoAAOSwdaVcQzIQ

There is a BMC 1.5 with 100 hours on it after a complete rebuild on ebay. The starter and alternator will recondition at minimal cost, why are you wasting time and money buying totally unsuitable engines that would cost you a fortune to fit in your boat? Do you not understand that everything in the boat is made to fit around a specific engine and gearbox? That's cooling system, engine bearers, prop shaft the works. Its not like dropping a 1600cc engine in a 1300 Cortina.

I hope that other Cheshire yards are safe, how is Chas Hardern for example, we used to see his boats regularly going down to Middlewich. And Andersens?