Exhaust fittings

[Mark R]

Morning all,

 

I wonder if any of you could offer suggestions as to disconnecting exhaust fittings from one another. Normally I'd just cut them off with an angle grinder but in this case I need to salvage the 135° fitting as it's connected to the silencer which in turn is welded to a bracket. I tried heating with a blow torch with no luck.

 

I could always cut off the collar that hangs out of the fitting leaving me a small section of pipe to connect in to but I'm not sure if there is a fitting allowing me to do so.

 

 

[blackrose]

It all looks a bit fooked to me. Is the silencer as rusty as that elbow? If so I'd scrap the lot and start again. 

Edited Sunday at 08:44 by blackrose

[Bee]

Stone the crows I think the chances of getting that apart are not great. It is almost certainly some sort of standard pipe fitting which should be easy enough to find in your local plumbers merchant or even somewhere on the internet.

[Tony Brooks]

4 minutes ago, blackrose said:

It all looks a bit fooked to me. Is the silencer as rusty as that elbow? If so I'd scrap the lot and start again. 

 

My thoughts as well. I fear working on the pipe may well rip it out of the silencer. All I can think of is to cut the larger diameter piece off the end and see if you can get something from a vehicle exhaust specialist to fit over the stud pipe and clamp it with an exhaust clamp. You would probably need to seal it with exhaust paste.

[Ronaldo47]

135° iron pipe bends should still be  available. I have some in 1'" BSP that I got to make a handrail. The only problem these days is finding a local supplier.  I have to get my less common iron pipe fittings on line these days as, with the decline of local heavy industry, the places I used to get them from have largely closed. 

[Peugeot 106]

BES Plumbing on line and have an excellent pipe fitting catalogue. They will post small quantities at a decent price. In any case peruse the free catalogue to find what you want

[truckcab79]

EBay or Amazon. No end of fittings available. If you can’t see it shown then message them and ask them to bend one up for you. When searching you’ll want a 45 not a 135.  For some reason plumbing is regarded as 135 and exhaust 45. 

[BEngo]

That bend is knackered.  I would go to either a good  plumbers merchant or a Pipeline Center and get a new one.   To get the old one off split it with a thin disk in an angle or die  grinder, going in only enough to clear the thread.  Then heat it up. Open the slot with wedges if needed. 

If you really must reuse then get it all bright red hot and apply large (36 in plus) Stilsons.  Silencer may not like this!    If that fails, cut off the collar and  cut a barrel nipple in half.  Then weld the  half barrel nipple to the stub  end. Then  fit a threaded coupler to give the female thread.

 

N

[hider]

George Fisher make compression fittings for iron pipe. Part off the fat end and use a compression fitting on the remaining plain pipe.

But looking at the corroded state of that pipework I would scrap the lot and start again with new fittings and pipe.

[ditchcrawler]

[Peugeot 106]

I’d just suggest the BES catalogue is good to look through for ideas and they post it to you free. Copper, bronze, stainless, brass, plastic etc all there to plan. It’s about 1/2” thick

3 hours ago, truckcab79 said:

EBay or Amazon. No end of fittings available. If you can’t see it shown then message them and ask them to bend one up for you. When searching you’ll want a 45 not a 135.  For some reason plumbing is regarded as 135 and exhaust 45. 

You obviously don’t have to buy off them

[David Mack]

5 hours ago, Mark R said:

 

I'd say those exhaust fittings are... err... exhausted!

[Bod]

7 hours ago, Mark R said:

Morning all,

 

I wonder if any of you could offer suggestions as to disconnecting exhaust fittings from one another. Normally I'd just cut them off with an angle grinder but in this case I need to salvage the 135° fitting as it's connected to the silencer which in turn is welded to a bracket. I tried heating with a blow torch with no luck.

 

I could always cut off the collar that hangs out of the fitting leaving me a small section of pipe to connect in to but I'm not sure if there is a fitting allowing me to do so.

 

 

Plus Gas and patience.

Remove to a decent bench and vice, wire brush off the loose rust, soak in Plus Gas ( a very good penetrating fluid.  DO NOT try WD 40 it won't work.)

Large pipe wrench, whilest held in vice, soaking may be measured in days/weeks.

Whether it will be any good again is the question.

 

Bod

[truckcab79]

3 hours ago, Bod said:

Plus Gas and patience.

Remove to a decent bench and vice, wire brush off the loose rust, soak in Plus Gas ( a very good penetrating fluid.  DO NOT try WD 40 it won't work.)

Large pipe wrench, whilest held in vice, soaking may be measured in days/weeks.

Whether it will be any good again is the question.

 

Bod

Someone that knows what they’re talking about, if you insist on saving what you have.

 

 

But honestly just cut it all off and replace with new.  

[Ronaldo47]

It does look pretty hopeless. 

 

The method I use with Plus-gas (petrol-based lighter fluid is almost as good)  is to apply some, leave to soak for a while, then apply more clean fluid and rock the wrench to and fro. Steel and iron are  not infinitely stiff, and rocking to and fro can release the turns near the surface while the internal turns remain locked. The clean fluid will turn orange if the thread is starting to become free, and repeatedly flushing the rusty fluid away with clean fluid and continuing to rock the wrench,  can have the effect of pumping fluid deeper into the thread. Patience may be required! 

 

If the fluid doesn't turn orange, then the thread is well and truly locked. 

Edited Sunday at 23:28 by Ronaldo47
typos

[Mark R]

Thanks all,

 

I went back to the boat yesterday and removed the silencer and as suggested it was fubarred. This leaves me with about an inch of (damaged) threaded bar hanging out of a female socket. I applied significant heat but it wasn't shifting so I shall try Ronaldo47's method or extra heat the next time.

 

Out of curiosity can anyone identify this piece of pipe? I'm thinking it's a bellow, it measures about 180mm in length and had two male threaded ends (one in the remains of a fitting and the other attached to a nut from a flexible bellow above it).

 

Edit: Could it be a piece of 1 1/2" threaded pipe where it's corroded so much the threads are falling off?

 

 

 

Edited Monday at 06:14 by Mark R

[TheBiscuits]

7 hours ago, Ronaldo47 said:

The method I use with Plus-gas (petrol-based lighter fluid is almost as good)

 

@Alan de Enfield once pointed out that PlusGas is 99.9% kerosene / paraffin according to it's data sheet.  

[David Mack]

3 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

@Alan de Enfield once pointed out that PlusGas is 99.9% kerosene / paraffin according to it's data sheet.  

I've used diesel to loosen tight threads in the past.

[Alan de Enfield]

1 hour ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

@Alan de Enfield once pointed out that PlusGas is 99.9% kerosene / paraffin according to it's data sheet.  

 

And, WD40 is a 'De Watering' fluid with zero 'penetrating oil' abilities.

 

(WD40 is the 40th version of a development to produce a Water Dispersant)

[Peugeot 106]

2 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

@Alan de Enfield once pointed out that PlusGas is 99.9% kerosene / paraffin according to it's data sheet.  

It’s the 0.1% Dynamite that obviously does it

[ditchcrawler]

6 hours ago, Mark R said:

Thanks all,

 

I went back to the boat yesterday and removed the silencer and as suggested it was fubarred. This leaves me with about an inch of (damaged) threaded bar hanging out of a female socket. I applied significant heat but it wasn't shifting so I shall try Ronaldo47's method or extra heat the next time.

 

Out of curiosity can anyone identify this piece of pipe? I'm thinking it's a bellow, it measures about 180mm in length and had two male threaded ends (one in the remains of a fitting and the other attached to a nut from a flexible bellow above it).

 

Edit: Could it be a piece of 1 1/2" threaded pipe where it's corroded so much the threads are falling off?

 

 

 

That looks like an ex running coupler.

Edited Monday at 12:47 by ditchcrawler

[blackrose]

7 hours ago, Mark R said:

 

 

Just be sure to lubricate those threads when you reuse that! 🤣

[Mark R]

53 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

That looks like an ex running coupler.

 

Thanks @ditchcrawler, that's most helpful and might help me when fitting everything together.

 

I’m looking at purchasing https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/ag-bellows-1-1-2-bsp-male-to-female-20-length-ea-010 , would I be right in assuming that tapered BSP fittings will fit into the female side of this, likewise will the male end fit into tapered fittings?

[ditchcrawler]

36 minutes ago, Mark R said:

 

Thanks @ditchcrawler, that's most helpful and might help me when fitting everything together.

 

I’m looking at purchasing https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/ag-bellows-1-1-2-bsp-male-to-female-20-length-ea-010 , would I be right in assuming that tapered BSP fittings will fit into the female side of this, likewise will the male end fit into tapered fittings?

Are you sure its 1½" and not 2" before you order

[Alan de Enfield]

55 minutes ago, Mark R said:

 

Thanks @ditchcrawler, that's most helpful and might help me when fitting everything together.

 

I’m looking at purchasing https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/ag-bellows-1-1-2-bsp-male-to-female-20-length-ea-010 , would I be right in assuming that tapered BSP fittings will fit into the female side of this, likewise will the male end fit into tapered fittings?

 

17 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Are you sure its 1½" and not 2" before you order

 

 

Remember that BSP thread sizes ARE NOT the actual measured size.

 

Look up on line the BSP size vs the actual OD.

 

There is some weird formula like "deduct 25% of the BSP stated size, to get the actual size".

 

So if your existing pipe measure 1 1/2 inches overall you need 2" BSP.

 

BUT - check on line.

Edited Monday at 14:38 by Alan de Enfield