Peugeot 106

I think it’s called “ galling” and can happen with any metal fastening but is a particular problem with stainless bolts into mild steel. I didn’t have any problem with my window screws but they were lubricated with mastic as it’s caused by friction Yes copper grease would be ideal

I put a dab of mastic on the screw threads before I put them in. Thread sealant or liquid ptfe may be better but mine don’t leak Decorators “Big Wipes’ are brilliant for wiping off excess mastic including Sikaflex. You obviously have to use them before it sets if you are bedding the windows in mastic ideally you leave it to go off before finally tightening the screws to avoid squishing it all out. Not sure how many people bother!

You can probably get self adhesive neoprene for just this sort of application. You peel the release paper off the back and could do it all in the comfort of your cabin! your screws are the same as mine and look v smart

If you wanted to use tape which is a lot less messy you could probably buy some sheet and cut out circular gaskets of the right size with scissors . I’m nervous offering suggestions on this thread as I’m not sure you are looking for them. Please don’t you or your mate take it the wrong way

With a dog poo bag tied to it this could look like the “d-gs b-ll-cks”

Beware if you replace the whole windows. The radius at the bottom can look similar but when you try to fit them they are different. If this happens you may need to weld infill corner pieces to the boat. I only know this as I saw a wide beam having all its windows replaced. Despite being warned the owner purchased all the windows to the wrong radius. Luckily for him the fitter was also a welder…….

Can I suggest you contact Caldwells Windows Wigan who manufacture this type of window. I bought some brush seals for the hoppers on these type of windows off them. They can probably supply the rubber trim that you are looking for

Wasn’t there forum participant not so long ago who had an elsan emptied on him from a bridge? I can’t remember the details but it sounded horrendous. I’ve had beer tipped over me going into Liverpool

Thank you truckcab I agree it doesn’t read well it was written in haste but I don’t need you jumping in pointing out my hasty words. I’ve been a regular contributor on this forum for a number of years and hope that I am at least considered courteous and I try to be helpful with practical advice. I would suggest that Blackrose has also been on the forum for many years and is more than capable of defending himself without your assistance. I was in any case going to apologise to Blackrose

I’m not going to tell you again that I find riveting is not as simple as it seems. It’s like welding. Even I can do it when it’s all layed flat. Why don’t you get a taper tap and drill the right size and give that a go. To reiterate you need the right sized hole, a taper tap with lubricant and take care and reverse the drill if it gets tight. Suggest you give it a try. If you are worried about getting the tap square hold a piece of wood against it marked square. You’ve tried a rivet why not try a tap if it’s a disaster and you are really clumsy and break the tap just screw it out with pliers. If I it’s a total disaster and it’s miles off square drill the hole larger for clearance for your bolts. But you will need a helper and the trim on the inside won’t accommodate the nuts i found the drill size for the tap was slightly larger than the rivet so you could even try this on the hole you’ve tried for your rivet and all will not be lost. give it a go you’ve nothing to lose. Or get a decent rivet gun. A lot of them are useless apart from small aluminium rivets

That’s good. It’s worth knowing who it was. I couldn’t remember who they were but they talked sense to me and persuaded me not to buy a new propellor!

And to think my distant past at about the same time I worked with Peugeot to manufacture the car boot from carbo fibre to reduce weight. They were really stuck on “every gm weight saves x amount of petrol”. Maybe it was to make up for the concrete you added!

It may only be rated intermittent so not designed for continuous running. It probably has a thermal cut out but just make sure it’s well ventilated and keep a check on its temperature with your hand. Probably best not to empty it all in one go if you can. I empty mine for winter using the water pump and switch it on and off while doing other jobs

When we were newbies we used to open the paddles too quickly and many was the time in the first week that boat ended up diagonal and banged around procedure now going up Trent and Mersey drop wife off before lock she opens gate if required I drive in and climb ladder with centreline from roof. I pass it between ladder handrails if I can and round a bollard and make sure the boat is tight against the side. From now on wife makes sure it is always tight. (If it gets away from the wall the chances are it will swing) She isn’t required to pull the boat but must keep the centreline tight at all times. Then I operate paddles ground same side as boat etc i leave the lock and my wife hopefully has time to shut the gate and hop on the stern. I may hop off to help start the gate My boat is only 25’ and can jam if it goes diagonal. I see no reason at all for it to bang around if the paddles are opened sensibly. The other danger is that if the flow suddenly goes up or down the lock a short boat can get quite a speed on before it hits the gate so you need to keep the centreline tight you don’t need to spend hours tending the paddles you soon get the hang of just letting enough water in to avoid banging. Just keep watching the boat I think a knife is actually quite sensible especially if you are on your own. You could get one with a beer bottle opener! The only trouble is that lock knives are illegal if you forget to leave them on the boat when visiting Windsor Castle. Don’t ask me how I know, I nearly ended up in the dungeons. I hate folding knives. Quite a few sailors strap a bread knife to the base of the mast in case they need the sails down in a mega hurry

Must admit I’ve bolted a few cylinder heads on but never thought of using rivets…….Can you use them to hold the wheels on as well It sounds like riveting wins the day though and that he’s got some good advice off you I’m sure you’ll be fine with rivets and you’ve got good advice so no excuses! just for info in case you ever want to drill and tap steel Whilst no claim to be an expert riveter I tapped all the holes on my boat, chimneys, vents, windows etc using a drill. I’m no expert but never had a problem with any of them. Just go gently and reverse every now and then so as not to snap the tap. Use lubricant eg drill paste. I’ve snapped more small drill bits than taps. The Allen key button head screws look very smart good luck

Bear in mind that Matty and Bizzard probably can’t remember anything going wrong when they were learning. Each has probably put in hundreds over the years and have it down to a fine art!

There are no nuts if you drill and tap the holes. I reckon it’s just as quick as riveting if you use a drill to drill, tap and screw. No worries about the rivets not seating because you aren’t holding it vertical to the hole or the gun slipping. Apologies for going on a bit but I suspect we both have similar skill levels and I find rivets to be not always as simple as they seem. I again urge you to have a practise on a piece of steel the same thickness as your boat. Remember if it is a lazy tong riveter you will be holding it horizontal and it’s a tad awkward especially when extended. I’m sure lots of people find it simple but do have a practice on some scrap (or someone else’s boat!) first

Just to say that I thought there was less to go wrong with screws as you can be careful with the tightness. If it goes wrong you can just unscrew them. Why don’t you find a bit of scrap steel and have a practice? The drills, taps and buttonhead screws are cheap enough and easy to obtain from an engineers supplies. Also try the rivets to see how controllable they are. Just trying to help

Ironmongers should have arboreal butyl tape in various sizes. You don’t need to pay seals direct prices though they are handy for tricky to find stuff

Mine were riveted in. After I drilled them out to paint the boat I replaced them with I think 5mm stainless button head allen key machine screws. Suggest you measure the existing rivet heads to find out what sized rivets and therefore what size rivet holes you’ve got. My rivet holes were luckily slightly smaller than the drill needed for the tap. I drilled them with the correct sized hole and tapped them by holding the tap in my battery drill at slow speed. This worked very well and was quick. I screwed them in by holding cut off Allen key again in the drill. I didn’t break any taps but I used a dab of cutting compound. If there is any hardwood behind the fastenings the drill, tap and screw thread just bury themselves into it. I used butyl tape to seal them and it was all a success. Note you need to position the butyl tape so that it doesn’t squeeze out beyond the frame or it looks a mess. If you try to cut it off you will scratch the paint and end up with rust. When you have the windows out clean the mastic off them with one off those hard expensive sponge like wheels. AND DON’T BEND THE FRAMES if you lever them out suggest you wait for better weather or do you know something we don’t good luck. I’m not saying my way is best but it worked very well for me and you can put exactly the correct pressure on the sealant Thinking about it I think they were 3.2 mm rivets and M3.5 or M4 screws. Re corrosion you can get paste used on yacht masts (aluminium) for screwing or riveting with stainless I think it is called Duralec

“Strong Offshore winds”. You’re worrying me. Where the hell are you?

Scaffold as a lever makes a lot of sense which I didn’t think of although it will be easier with two people. When I was thinking of doing mine I looked at using some air wedges/bags that they use for doors etc to slide underneath the engine. There are some pretty heavy duty ones available that I eventually found if you are on your own Just keep your fingers and toes out of the way. Good Luck

R&D recommended different ratings front and back for my 2 cylinder LPWS2 with PRM 120 gearbox. ( Ididn’t use them as my problem I discovered was down to the engine bed flexing) . R&D were very prescriptive and did not fill me with confidence that they actually knew what they were talking about. They just sent me curt emails and data sheets. I got the impression that the £200 or so was not of interest to them and they showed little interest in discussing anything. I won’t be using them again unless I have to. It sounds like your experience is similar

I honestly don’t remember the Vet but he was supposed to be Herriot or whatever and the farm (Manor Farm) was on the telly.Our farm was about a mile from the White Horse along the Gallops, and I used to walk past it every night on my way to the pub at Kilburn (mouse man fame). Previously I fell out with the landlord at the Hambleton on top of the bank (and closer) over my Wellies (another tale) and this resulted in the longer walk. In those days everyone drank a “pint touch” from memory pay as £13/week and £5 was taken out for board and lodge - one bath a week. cucumber mothers pride sandwiches and Luke warm stale tea in a glass lined flask. Did it for a year before Agiri College. When I left I was offered £30/week to stay! Gliding looks like fun I used to watch probably you! But never got a go. At least there ‘s no engine it should suit a few of us on here

I can tell you when Simmentals arrived. I was working on a farm on top of Sutton Bank at Cold Kirby. We got 13 calves and kept them in a box alongside 13 friesians and fed them on Barley. It was called “Barley Beef” Farmers Weekly monitored and compared them for performance and Herriot was our vet. I recently saw the small 160 Acre farm on a telly program about him I seem to remember we tried to keep them intact but had to castrate them when they were quite old as they got frisky (dangerous). That was over 50 years ago. There was a Charolais bull at the same time on a farm near home. We used to lead the hay through its field at hay time and shoo it away with abbrush if it bothered us. One day it killed the farmer. It was in its box and he went in alone assuming it was docile