Reginox Ceramic or other sink options

[LadyG]

Hi, I am having new beech worktops meade to measure by a proper timber place, maybe Atlantic Timber, Altrincham.

Worktops existing are  600mm width by 25mm depth

 50mm of the 600mm width are under the cabin side gunwales.

The sink Reginox requires 40mm worktops.

I think the size of the cut out is 424mm, that is to say, there will be a lip of 51 mm on the short side and 54 nm on the long side .

The corners of the cutout are R16, which I assume is the radius, as the cut out will not be 90 degrees .

 

Edited November 5, 2023 by LadyG

[frahkn]

That's nice.

[LadyG]

14 minutes ago, frahkn said:

That's nice.

That is the theory, however I will be looking for advice , as I am project manager,  and have to come up with a working design.

I feel the cut out is goiing to weaken the worktop, and there is a similar problem on the second worktop which has a fixed Thetford cooker.

My fitter has good woodworking skills and has an almost identical design on his own boat.

It's a lot of money, and several real opportunities for gross errors.

Edited November 5, 2023 by LadyG

[Tracy D'arth]

19 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Hi, I am having new beech worktops meade to measure by a proper timber place, maybe Atlantic Timber, Altrincham.

Worktops existing are  600mm width by 25mm depth

 50mm of the 60mm width are under the cabin side gunwales.

The sink Reginox requires 40mm worktops.

I think the size of the cut out is 424mm, that is to say, there will be a lip of 51 mm on the short side and 54 nm on the long side .

The corners of the cutout are R16, which I assume is the radius, as the cut out will not be 90 degrees .

 

So there is only 10mm of available worktop? Are you just telling us what you wish or are you actually having it done?  Is there a question?

 

Just now, LadyG said:

 

It's a lot of mo eg and se real opportunities for gross errors.

There is a gross error right there!

[Alan de Enfield]

27 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Worktops existing are  600mm width by 25mm depth

 50mm of the 60mm width are under the cabin side gunwales.

The sink Reginox requires 40mm worktops.

 

 

Is there room between the top of the cupboard carcass & under the gunwales if you are intending to replace a 25mm thick worktop with a 40mm one ?

 

Have you got a 15mm+ gap under the gunwales currently, or, is the worktop 'tight' up to the gunwales ?

You might need to cut your cupboard height down by 15mm - turning a simple cheap job into a more complicated expensive job.

[Tracy D'arth]

Not much worktop left after cutting the hole. The front needs to overhang the base unit too.  Would you be better with a smaller sink?

[Puffling]

3 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Not much worktop left after cutting the hole. The front needs to overhang the base unit too.  Would you be better with a smaller sink?

I've seen the cutouts bevelled and turned into a close-fitting board for inside the sink. This allows it to double as a chopping board, etc.

 

No comments on your proposed worktop idea but I can vouch for Atlantic Timber being reliable. Their delivery guys are familiar with boaters.

 

[agg221]

What would happen if you extended the overhang on the worktop? They are being custom made anyway, so if you widen the worktop to increase the overhang at the front it may improve both the look and the strength. When I did my (land based) kitchen I did this to fit a large butler sink and it hasn't caused any problems in 7+ years.

 

Alec

[David Schweizer]

For what it is worth I think wooden worktops are a future problem waiting to happen. They always look lovely for the first few months, but no mattwer how much oil is rubbed into them, they eventually start to stain and darken, requiring a complete re-furbishment, and just hope that a tap does not start to leak whilst you are away from the boat! I settled for decent quality laminate covered tops, which are minimum maintenance, and always look the same as when they were installed.

 

 

[LadyG]

1 hour ago, David Schweizer said:

For what it is worth I think wooden worktops are a future problem waiting to happen. They always look lovely for the first few months, but no mattwer how much oil is rubbed into them, they eventually start to stain and darken, requiring a complete re-furbishment, and just hope that a tap does not start to leak whilst you are away from the boat! I settled for decent quality laminate covered tops, which are minimum maintenance, and always look the same as when they were installed.

 

 

Modern worktops are a laminate covered chipboard, very much a standard B&Q look.

Real wood looks like real wood, and I want a wow factor.

I hope to seal raw edges with clear epoxy, before instalation.

The sink is then set in to the worktop with appropriate sealant, underneath and around the sink.

I have seen a worktop which is four years old, and as good as new. 

Currently I have a B&Q block wood worktop which has been sealed recently with bathroom sealant round the sink edge, this has allowed moisture in and held it in and has rotted the wood, where I have removed this top layer, the wood has dried out .

I have tried to get German kitchen manufacturers interested, they are not interested in any job under £20K ,as far as I can see. 

 

2 hours ago, agg221 said:

What would happen if you extended the overhang on the worktop? They are being custom made anyway, so if you widen the worktop to increase the overhang at the front it may improve both the look and the strength. When I did my (land based) kitchen I did this to fit a large butler sink and it hasn't caused any problems in 7+ years.

 

Alec

Yes, I might well extend the worktop an inch, it will still be tight, the butler sink has an overhang, and this allows water to run under the worktop surface, which again is a risk.

3 hours ago, Puffling said:

I've seen the cutouts bevelled and turned into a close-fitting board for inside the sink. This allows it to double as a chopping board, etc.

 

No comments on your proposed worktop idea but I can vouch for Atlantic Timber being reliable. Their delivery guys are familiar with boaters.

 

I am looking for a smaller sink, not a standard 1970's s/s as i want a wow factor.

Atlantic timber are v close to the Bridgwater, so I have considered taking the boat, but its a major expedition, and my fitter is here in W Yorks not Cheshire.

[Tracy D'arth]

24 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Modern worktops are a laminate covered chipboard, very much a standard B&Q look.

Real wood looks like real wood, and I want a wow factor.

I hope to seal raw edges with clear epoxy, before instalation.

The sink is then set in to the worktop with appropriate sealant, underneath and around the sink.

I have seen a worktop which is four years old, and as good as new. 

Currently I have a B&Q block wood worktop which has been sealed recently with bathroom sealant round the sink edge, this has allowed moisture in and held it in and has rotted the wood, where I have removed this top layer, the wood has dried out .

I have tried to get German kitchen manufacturers interested, they are not interested in any job under £20K ,as far as I can see. 

 

Yes, I might well extend the worktop an inch, it will still be tight, the butler sink has an overhang, and this allows water to run under the worktop surface, which again is a risk.

I am looking for a smaller sink, not a standard 1970's s/s as i want a wow factor.

Atlantic timber are v close to the Bridgwater, so I have considered taking the boat, but its a major expedition, and my fitter is here in W Yorks not Cheshire.

You will never get there through your closures.  Besides you cannot moor on the Bridgwater long enough. Broadheath is not the best area to moor in, too noisy.

[blackrose]

2 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

For what it is worth I think wooden worktops are a future problem waiting to happen. They always look lovely for the first few months, but no mattwer how much oil is rubbed into them, they eventually start to stain and darken, requiring a complete re-furbishment, and just hope that a tap does not start to leak whilst you are away from the boat! I settled for decent quality laminate covered tops, which are minimum maintenance, and always look the same as when they were installed.

 

 

 

A few months? Maybe I've just been lucky. My IKEA butchers block beech workshops have had 18 years of liveaboard use and are still unstained or darkened and just as good as when they were first installed. 

 

Decent quality and laminate worktops is a contradiction in terms in my opinion. Unless you're still stuck in the 1970s with Bob & Thelma.

Edited November 5, 2023 by blackrose

[Puffling]

1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said:

You will never get there through your closures.  Besides you cannot moor on the Bridgwater long enough. Broadheath is not the best area to moor in, too noisy.

I was about to say the same.

When I was doing my engine room in oak-faced ply I briefly considered chugging to the Bridgewater near their yard. One look at the area on Google Street view disuaded me - it's an ugly industrial zone with big roads and power lines crossing everywhere.

 

The Atlantic people sent my delivery with an extra person (extra charge, but worth it) to help load everything onto my boat moored on the Macc. Give them a bridge number with access and they'll do it.

[blackrose]

5 hours ago, LadyG said:

Hi, I am having new beech worktops meade to measure by a proper timber place, maybe Atlantic Timber, Altrincham.

Worktops existing are  600mm width by 25mm depth

 50mm of the 60mm width are under the cabin side gunwales.

The sink Reginox requires 40mm worktops.

I think the size of the cut out is 424mm, that is to say, there will be a lip of 51 mm on the short side and 54 nm on the long side .

The corners of the cutout are R16, which I assume is the radius, as the cut out will not be 90 degrees .

 

 

How much of the worktop are you sliding under the gunwale - assuming that's what you're doing? It only needs a cm under.

[LadyG]

15 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

How much of the worktop are you sliding under the gunwale - assuming that's what you're doing? It only needs a cm under.

The existing worktop is 25mm thick and has 50mm ie two inches under the gunwale. 

If I lose one inch on the inside, that's not going to make much difference to the over all problem which is that the sink is quite wide relative to the width of the worktop.

But I have seen that particular sink set in to solid beech worktop.

Yes, it's going to be their own delivery, return journey is about 135M, .

Edited November 5, 2023 by LadyG

[David Schweizer]

2 hours ago, LadyG said:

Modern worktops are a laminate covered chipboard, very much a standard B&Q look.

Real wood looks like real wood, and I want a wow factor.

 

 

If you buy them from B & Q then that is what you will get, but you can get much better laminates these days which are virtually indistinguishavble from real wood, but you have to go to specialist suppliers, and be prepared to pay for them.

[MrsM]

14 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:

 

If you buy them from B & Q then that is what you will get, but you can get much better laminates these days which are virtually indistinguishavble from real wood, but you have to go to specialist suppliers, and be prepared to pay for them.

I'm in the market for new worktop for my house. Do you have any recommendations for decent laminate? Thanks

[magnetman]

Old teak laboratory worktops from schools are good. 

 

Of course the best boats, including one of mine are made by people who worked this all out ages ago. You don't actually need a worktop. All you need in reality is a properly installed full size stainless sink with drainer. These fit in a small space quite happily. If done right they don't look wrong just functional. The drainer can have a chopping board on it if needed. 

 

Its when people try to make boats too much like houses that the problems start. 

 

I've had all the different types of worktops on boats but the best one is no worktop. 

 

 

 

And a big sink with a proper drain and a stainless steel welded-in tube 'welded on both sides of the hull plating' of a sensible size rather than some rubbishy skin fitting or worse still a mild steel stub thing only welded on the inside !! 

 

Get the tig welder out and do it properly !

[David Schweizer]

2 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

A few months? Maybe I've just been lucky. My IKEA butchers block beech workshops have had 18 years of liveaboard use and are still unstained or darkened and just as good as when they were first installed. 

 

Decent quality and laminate worktops is a contradiction in terms in my opinion. Unless you're still stuck in the 1970s with Bob & Thelma.

 

Genuine Beech Butchers Block work surface is a completely different (and superior) product from modern rain forest timber work tops. We had them in the dairy on the farm where I was Saturdy boy, and you don't need to treat it in the same way. I agree that some most modern laminate work tops a less than impressive, but if you are prepared to pay for decent quality, it is available, and if low maintenance is an issue, it is worth paying more for a better product.

 

 

 

53 minutes ago, MrsM said:

I'm in the market for new worktop for my house. Do you have any recommendations for decent laminate? Thanks

 

I am not able to recommend anyone in Lincoln, but what you need to do is earch out a local company which specialises in good quality produxts and discuss your requirements with them. the first thing is to ensure that the laminate is a decent thicknes and not like paper.

 

 

Edited November 5, 2023 by David Schweizer

[DandV]

6 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

For what it is worth I think wooden worktops are a future problem waiting to happen. They always look lovely for the first few months, but no mattwer how much oil is rubbed into them, they eventually start to stain and darken, requiring a complete re-furbishment, and just hope that a tap does not start to leak whilst you are away from the boat! I settled for decent quality laminate covered tops, which are minimum maintenance, and always look the same as when they were installed.

 

 

They may be a future problem, but that future can be some way off  if you keep up with  simple cleaning and three monthly oil wipe over with branded "bench oil". And eventually a relitively simple refurbish with sandpaper and more bench oil restarts the clock.

Our 12 year old wooden benches, looked great still when we sold after the equivalent of 6 years livaboard  boating.

I think the timber was iroko. Closely resembled the Australian Jarrah we have on one of our kitchen benches and our bathroom benches here at home. 

 

You probably have worked this out already but!

Our bench top had carefully routed channels to provide a drainage area back to the sink.

They would have been great, if the boat floated level fore and aft, which of course it did not.

Drainage water instead migrated to the aft end of the bench and hence down into the cupboards below, until thwarted by a bead of silicone sealant. 

Edited November 5, 2023 by DandV

[cuthound]

8 hours ago, LadyG said:

That is the theory, however I will be looking for advice , as I am project manager,  and have to come up with a working design.

I feel the cut out is goiing to weaken the worktop, and there is a similar problem on the second worktop which has a fixed Thetford cooker.

My fitter has good woodworking skills and has an almost identical design on his own boat.

It's a lot of money, and several real opportunities for gross errors.

 

As a retired project manager, my advice would be to get one company to be responsible for everything,  purchasing, design and implementation.

 

That way you avoid companies blaming each other for anything that goes wrong.

[LadyG]

57 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

As a retired project manager, my advice would be to get one company to be responsible for everything,  purchasing, design and implementation.

 

That way you avoid companies blaming each other for anything that goes wrong.

I agree, in that the fitter will be having the worktops manufactured to his measurements, they have to be solid as curves and angles are desired.

The fitter has exactly the same solid beech worktops on his own boat, and they are four years old with no sign of wear or water damage  I'm not sure how wide his are, he has the Reginox ceramic sink, full size, I think I want something smaller as the worktop is only 2m long. 

However, I will have to buy the materials and pay for delivery as I can't expect him to fork out the cash, also I must be sure he has ordered what I want, or inevitably it will end in tears!

There is also the 

Issue of waste water disposal, I assume the sink may need to be fairly shallow, to drain efficiently. Not sure if this is an issue.

 

 

 

8 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Not much worktop left after cutting the hole. The front needs to overhang the base unit too.  Would you be better with a smaller sink?

According to specification cabinet width needs to be 600mm for the Reginox sink, the photo looks to be 600.

I am still looking for a new sink with drainer that looks stunning, what drama!

Edited November 5, 2023 by LadyG

[LadyG]

14 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Not much worktop left after cutting the hole. The front needs to overhang the base unit too.  Would you be better with a smaller sink?

According to specification cabinet width needs to be 600mm for the Reginox sink, the photo looks to be 600.

I am still looking for a new sink with drainer that looks stunning, what drama!

I've found a ceramic sink by Tenby, the Rangemaster which is 850x500, this looks good, its from Tap Warehouse. 

I think that I should buy a seal for mounting sinks rather than using silicon gunk, any opinion?

[LadyG]

The other problem is water pressure, the taps recomme ded require at least 5 bar , I can imagine that there could be an issue.

[rusty69]

30 minutes ago, LadyG said:

The other problem is water pressure, the taps recomme ded require at least 5 bar , I can imagine that there could be an issue.

I would think your water system, pump and PRV are rated a lot lower than that, so yes, that will likely be a problem.