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Everything posted by agg221

  1. I would echo this. Also, don't forget areas like the Wey and the Basingstoke where transport links can be good. There are also liveaboard moorings available within the M25 if you end up deciding to go that route for an easier life with power and other facilities. Not cheap, but for example a friend has just moved onto Engineer's Wharf in a 72' boat so it is possible. Where it gets difficult is if you are determined to be based right in central London on continuous cruising. Too many other people had the same idea and it is now extremely busy in consequence. Alec
  2. If President is expected to open the rally, is it FMC-themed? If so, I will let the new owner of The King know. Alec
  3. Taking advantage of the brilliantly clear weather this weekend.
  4. This is the RB (R for reduction). I have a DB (direct) sat in the shed which came from Tim Leech in bits. It's essentially the whole of the main box but without the reduction part on the end. I never have figured out what the adaptor plate was to bolt on to - Tim reckoned it was wartime and went on a Kelvin but I haven't ever confirmed this. I also have a photocopy of the DC manual which appears to be just post-war. Alec
  5. You're welcome. One observation - the photographs were taken before a visit by Dick Goble, who pointed out that the earthing wire should run the other side of the exhaust, down nearer the spark plug wire, to avoid direct contact between the wire and the exhaust manifold to minimise heating. This has since been changed. The other end of the wire is a simple crimp on ring terminal. I did look at the solder-on brass HT lead terminals but they only seem to be available to suit the 7mm OD HT lead and this is 5mm. Alec
  6. As promised, photos showing where the stopping terminal goes. Hopefully these show what you need. Alec
  7. Try shoving them down your composting toilet - that should deal with the problem as they aren't emptied into the bins anymore...
  8. The body is Ebonite, following the instructions of Dick Goble, who described the design from memory. Tom Cauldwell sent me some photos of an original one and between the two there was enough to go on. The big advantage of Ebonite is that it is electrically insulating, so you can put it down while starting on petrol without risking earthing out the magneto. I can imagine that this will be particularly useful for hand starting (when I get that sorted out). Alec
  9. This is the clip in question. Wire now resolved. Alec
  10. Will do. In the meantime, if you have access to your stopping terminal it would be very handy to know how long the central pin is so I can bore my clip to the appropriate depth. Alec
  11. If you can work out a regular pattern of cruising then it may work out cheaper to rent a marina mooring for periods of time, so for example if you are going to cruise for 3 months, then travel abroad for 3 months and then travel again etc. then booking a marina mooring for the 3 month periods would be practical. If you pick the right locations then you can move around between marinas and some you wouldn't need a CRT licence while staying at which may make it even cheaper, but a lot of research is needed to identify these. You could also leave the boat for a week or two if needed during the 'cruising' period but two weeks is the limit. If you need more flexibility then a home mooring is by far the easiest option. Just to add on the subject of home moorings, the price does depend heavily on location, boat size and services. If you have a 60ft x 12ft wide beam and want to moor in London then expect an annual cost of over £10,000 but a couple of example figures: a friend's mooring at Engineer's Wharf in North London (accessible by underground with a bit of a walk) is £6,000 per year for a 72ft narrowboat and comes with services such as permanent 32amp connection, telephone connection for internet and pump-out on site. At the other end of the scale, our offside linear mooring on the Shropshire Union is £1000 per year for a 38ft boat. It comes with absolutely nothing, not even mooring rings as you have to provide your own mooring pins, and we did have to dredge it out by about 18" to get the boat in, but it is cheap! Alec
  12. This looks promising for an enquiry. It's the right type of material and the 1mm2 (or larger) could be the right diameter, depending on the thickness of the insulation. They don't actually list black on the website, or give the OD of the cable including insulation, but I can drop them a line. Thanks - I'd found this one previously. Annoyingly, if they either had the 1mm in type 4C or the 2.5mm in type 4A it would be perfect but this particular one is a little on the thin side. It may yet be the best option. The problem with HT lead is that the copper core is very thin compared with the insulation. That makes it difficult to connect the ends, hence the use of what would, at the time, have been an LT lead. I have the stopping terminal still in place on my J2. Your description of the clip is similar but slightly different from Tom Cauldwell's original which I am copying. I have made the brass bit, will make the Ebonite bit on Tuesday and I have the necessary 2BA screw and the eye terminal. If I can find a suitable piece of wire it can be put in place next Saturday and I can take a photo to show where the stopping terminal is fitted. Alec
  13. I couldn't find anyone. Everything there seems to be PVC coated.
  14. A bit random this, but since the forum is a mine of information I wondered whether anyone may have ideas on a source. When the Kelvin is running on petrol it uses a magneto to generate a spark. Once it is switched over to diesel the magneto is earthed out to protect it. There is a small brass stud on the top which the earth connects to. Mine currently has a piece of ordinary PVC coated earth wire to do this but I am making the correct part, courtesy of some dimensioned photographs of an original one. The wire should be a piece of flexible black rubber coated cable (NOT PVC coated). It is a lot easier to use a multi-strand, single core wire with a reasonable thickness of wire up it, rather than a spark plug HT lead with a single wire, as it needs the thickness to be connected to a screw terminal at one end and soldered to a ring tab at the other. It wants to be around 4-5mm OD on the insulation. I can find suitable wire, such as BS6195 4A in 4mm or 4C in 1.5-2.5mm which also has tinned strands which would help, and a couple of other options, but I can't find anyone that sells less than 100m, and I only need a couple of metres so it seems rather wasteful to throw over 95m of pristine wire in a skip. Any ideas? Alec
  15. I found it an interesting video. I would like to see more of the financial breakdown of where the budget is coming from to address the stated maintenance - is it already built in (like politicians re-announcing the same money) or is it by reallocation, and if so from what. One figure I would like to see a breakdown for is the contribution from boaters as it struck me as surprisingly low. The video includes a statement that the government contribution of £52M is 25% and that the owners of the 35,000 boats contribute 20%. That works out to £41.6M. I had presumed an average of approximately £1,000/boat, totalling £35M but the higher fees for hire boats, trading boats and most significantly letting of moorings does not add up to as much as I had thought it would. I will await the annual report with interest. Alec
  16. That's what I was thinking of. I last went that way in 1993 so it's been a while! Alec
  17. The Diglis Basin locks at the bottom of the W&B are (or at least were) paired too as I recall. Alec
  18. Elder daughter has offered to sleep on top of the engine, which is probably possible on a K4. Since she has been known to still be polishing the J2 at 11.30 at night, I think that would combine the two quite nicely. Alec
  19. Well I did consider that - I could even just upgrade the number from J2 to J4 and solve the same problem. I did consider whether these two TASC-8 engines https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403277069350?hash=item5de52fbc26%3Ag%3ArzIAAOSwkLFhhDvL&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338464579&customid=SI_kelvin%2Bengine&toolid=10049 mounted in-line would be an alternative solution but my wife says that we do actually need the bathroom, the galley and somewhere for the children to sleep. Alec
  20. That becomes a significant advantage. We have realised that the power curve for the prop with and without the alternator is sufficiently different to make a significant difference. We have a Kelvin J2 on a 38' boat with significantly better hydrodynamics than a standard canal boat (round bottomed ice boat with long swims fore and aft). It runs with a hydraulic drive. With the selected prop, the whole set-up runs very nicely at cruising speeds with the alternator on, and has plenty in reserve for big rivers. However, it is not happy at low engine speeds with the alternator on and puts a significant strain on the engine - you can hear it labouring at idle revs. This is to the extent that for manoeuvring in and out of moorings and passing long lines of moored boats it gives two choices - slip the hydraulics back so the revs stay higher (you can't do this with a gearbox but you can with a swash-plate pump as it is infinitely variable) - this works but is fiddly to match the revs and the pump pressure as they are independently variable. It also tends to get various angry heads popping out as they don't hear the engine speed drop when passing, even though the travelling speed is dead slow. Alternatively I can turn the alternator off but the switch is down in the engine room and even if I add remote wiring I am likely to forget to switch it back on again. Something which automatically backs the alternator load off, e.g. at start-up and on low revs, would be extremely useful as it then becomes one less system to think about. Alec
  21. Indeed not. I think they look good banded in the colours of the boat. However, with a plain dark grey boat it doesn't want to be too fancy.
  22. I hadn't thought of using aluminium. It will be painted regardless but it might be a good idea for weight and corrosion reasons. Painting will also stop it from leaving grey marks all over the steerer's hands. I think 3m may be a little long - serious tug deck that! Alec
  23. Don't forget you will immediately need insurance, a mooring (I presume you will not be continuously cruising, based on your location) and a licence, generally in that order. There are some technicalities which can be used in a few rare circumstances to spread these out but I suggest budgeting £2.5-3k for this (depends on length). For context, we have a 38' boat with a historic discount and are on the cheapest available mooring. This gave us a combined figure of £2k for the above. Alec
  24. Thanks All, particularly MartynG as that's exactly the what I have been trying (and failing) to find. Blackrose - I understand where you're coming from but the swan neck is steel anyway, not to mention the cabin, decks etc (the hull is ferrous too but that's wrought iron). Ours is an industrial-looking boat and once re-painted plain dark grey will be increasingly so, so a plain off-white tiller bar will be in keeping with the look and a lot less of a pain to keep looking decent over winter and in the rain. A day's rain spots is another thing to polish up and I have enough of those with the portholes and the Kelvin! Alec
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