Augustamay60

We can do grit blasting but we have a scabbler and a bristle blaster which takes boats down to bare steel also for 2pk epoxy most of the 2pks we do are done this way. It also saves you £1000 for sand blasting. We apply 2 coats of jotamastic 90 and a 3rd at the waterline. Around £1600 for the sides on a 57ft boat without blasting and £3000 including blasting. Let me know if you want a proper quote.

Good morning, I can do blacking and 2pk epoxy at our yard at Sawley marina. I have a date free next month due to cancellation. Let me know if you want a price and more info. Cheers James.

Currently it just has an exposed flywheel there are a series of bolts that I plan on making an end plate to bolt the hydraulic drive too. I can get a drive plate made to any spline so I will just need to take measurements off the spline on the pump, all sound simple but very rarely is. I have had to make several alternations to the engine to try and get it to work in a boat as beta did.

I have considered cutting the beds out and lowering the engine as I am a certified welder but there are a few issues such as the engine would need to be lifted out again and it means removing the roof to do so. I have down some pricing and there is not much between the systems by the time I have purchased a drive plate, gearbox and aqua drive plus the cost of removing the engine and time welding beds in. It’s Parker hydraulics that I have been looking at they seem the best for the money.

I assume that any hydraulic pump that works at the same pressure as the motor and can take the RPM would work it doesn’t need to be a specific one for a boat ?

This is great information thank you very much. I am really going to have to go down the hydraulic route unless I cut all my engine beds out and change them as my old lister used to have a dropper reduction on the gearbox. I have sent a email to ARS and am waiting for a response, so we shall see.

I assume you would by that as a kit with the tank, pump motor and direction control valve. Has it always been reliable ?

Has anyone got any experience of hydraulic drives? I need one for my John Deere JD3 due to alignment issues and not wanting to go down the route of prop shafts and universal joints. Any advice would be greatly appreciated?

Yes most likely

That’s good news about parts being interchangeable, I will try John Deere see if they can supply me one. There is probably about 1 inch between the two my plan was to have a shaft with x2 universal joins. There is a block bearing fitted at the stern tube end as support. I have found a company who can manufacture a short shaft.

Yes it was the engine that RCR was selling. I was looking for a beta tug engine but as they no longer make them and are quite a rare beast this engine was my best option. I know about the drive plate that beta use, it’s a sort of star shaped plate. I sent R&D all the torque specs and this is the plate they came up with. I will get in touch with John Deere see if they have the bell housing then an adapter plate can be made. Why does the vent need connecting to the intake? It’s not a tricky job I just wonder why?

It was a very strange armament before with a steel ring, plate and some spacers. I believe it works but re creating it for a prm is proving tricky. I have tried a SAE 4 and 5 end plate but neither will long up to the engine.

Hello, thanks for all the suggestions. I will attach some pictures of the engine, it runs at 450 - 1250 rpm just like the beta tug engine. The engine is a CD3029D. When I purchased the engine it came with a Borg Warner gearbox attached but I have removed this because I need the gearbox to drop the output for alignment reasons. Hence choosing a PRM. The drive plate is the same as the one used by beta on the tug engine. It’s made by R&D.

I asked and They weren’t too helpful about it as the engine is not one they made. It’s also slightly different to the beta tug engine. It was purchased straight from John Deere.

Hi All, I have recently fitted a John Deere JD3 engine to my boat. Problem is it came with no gearbox or bell housing. I have managed to get a drive plate worked out. I just need a way of coupling the gearbox to the engine or maybe putting the gearbox on its own mounting then a sort of drive shaft between the 2. There is plenty of room in the engine room. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.