Jump to content

Painting outside of a narrow boat


Featured Posts

10 minutes ago, Tanmim H said:

Need advice on painting the roof and how to get rid off the rust.

What kind of paint?

Can anyone show me photos how they got rid off the rust.

Welcome to the forum.

We have used Craftmaster Raddle with good results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm afraid that getting rid of the rust is just a case of sandpapering all the rusty bits. If you can use an electric sander then its not too hard but by hand its not much fun. then use a decent primer on the bare metal and at least two topcoats of any good paint, as Athy says, Craftmaster is a quality paint. An assistant to make cups of tea is useful as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Tanmim H said:

Need advice on painting the roof and how to get rid off the rust.

What kind of paint?

Can anyone show me photos how they got rid off the rust.

It depends how bad the rust is. Light rusting can be removed by hand sanding but if it’s bad (pictures would help) you will probably need to use a power tools and maybe take it back to bare metal. Then you need to fill any holes and apply a good primer followed by the topcoats. As Athy says Craftmaster is good paint https://www.craftmasterpaints.co.uk

You probably want a non-slip finish using an additive for the top coat otherwise it’s too easy for things and you to slide off the roof.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Skeg said:

You probably want a non-slip finish using an additive for the top coat otherwise it’s too easy for things and you to slide off the roof.

The Craftmaster Raddles seem to provide a smooth, yet non slip surface.

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A scraper to remove flakes, if flaking, plus dustpan and brush, choose calm day. 

A rotary power tool to get down to rust, attached to a vacuum, angle grinder with specialist pads.

3m dust masks , you need three maximum.

Bare metal, primer.

If in doubt use rust treatment. 

Primer

Undercoat (s)

Top coat (s) 

I painted much of my roof white to keep it cool, and a pack of anti slip on final coat, not full strength unless you intend to go on roof regularly. 

Read the instructions.

Use top Q paints.

When you put one coat on, and you don't need to sand it, then the second coat will bond to the first coat if done before it has had time to fully dry, ie maybe a few days. This is a good thing.

When I was unable to do this, I had to leave it for a fortnight then very lightly sand to force second coat to bond.

I'ts a faff, best to allow a week, though if all is perfect it can be done in three days.

Use tack cloths to clean surface before topcoat

Edited by LadyG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vactan anti rust on the bare bits then Epifanes Multiforte worked for me.  Good anti slip properties and has lasted well.  Go for a light colour unless you want to fry eggs on the roof!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When we had Helvetia re-painted, and after removing rust with a scrabbler, John used Rustoleum primer before applying undercoat and topcoat. He had never used Rustoleum before, and spent half a day at the factory learning about it. They Guaranteed that no rust would  penetrate for (I think) at least ten years, or they would pay for a complete re-paint. It was still good after seven years, when I last saw it. Apparently Rustoleum use Fish Oils instead of mineral oil in the manufacture of their paint, it was developed by a former Deep Sea Fisherman who had noticed that, despite the salty sea water, the decks never went rusty where they landed the fish.

 

 

Edited by David Schweizer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The machine is a scabbler,  and yes, well worth hiring for a day to strip a roof.

Once stripped, wire brush rust out, sand and prime....rustoleum is quite good, we tend to use Craftsmaster grey anti corrosion high  build primer for most boats though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try a scabbler to see how good the remaining steel is. Ear defenders needed. Eye protection too. As your rust in in an awkward space - you will need a wire cup brush fitting on a powerdrill or needle gun.  Water and 240v don't mix so be carefull.

 

If the base is sound, coat with rust treatment.

 

If you use a primer bear in mind primers are not waterproof.

 

Study these series of video's to see what a large job it is to do <properly>.

 

 

Edited by mark99
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A wire cup brush in an angle grinder for that sort of thing, or even better a needle gun, but the chimney collar needs to come off and I fear that there is a good chance that the rust has gone right through the steel. If you plan to keep the boat for any length of time then welding is the only solution. It might be possible to do a short term bodge with car body filler.

Even if the rust has not gone right through there will likely be some significant pitting and you will need to get 99% of the rust out of these if you want your painting to last.

 

...............Dave

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Tanmim H said:

That makes sense and sounds like a lot of  work and care needs to be taken.

 

Boat maintenance is 'a lot of work' and unfortunately once it has got as bad as yours it becomes even more difficult  to rectify. It looks bad enough to require cutting out and having new steel welded in.

 

Are you anywhere near a boat yard, or, have a mooring a man with a welder could get to ?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Tanmim H said:

That makes sense and sounds like a lot of  work and care needs to be taken.

Correct, the painting takes minutes, the prep takes, days.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Tanmim H said:

Here is the photo.

IMG_20210401_100834.jpg

 

Redmi Note 9. I have the Poco X3 NFC. I'm a big fan of Xiaomi budget phones - you get the specs of a flagship Samsung or iPhone for a quarter of the price.

 

Anyway, that will need a bit more than sanding. What's happened is that the acidic tar from your chimney has attacked the paint and steel. You need to get a mini angle grinder with a wire wheel on it and take all that back to bare steel. Make sure you're wearing leather gloves, eye protection and ear defenders.

 

Once you've got rid of all the old paint and got to the bottom of the rust pits you can have a look at the bare steel and see what needs doing. Probably just a bit of filler (use a proper 2 part marine filler like International Watertight rather than car body filler), a couple of coats of a good primer, undercoats and top coats.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/twisted-knot-wire-brush-100mm/133JG?tc=GA7&ds_kid=92700055262507123&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhMu_3cLk7wIVSdTtCh0LhAIeEAQYCCABEgJUs_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Edited by blackrose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, blackrose said:

Redmi Note 9. I have the Poco X3 NFC. I'm a big fan of Xiaomi budget phones - you get the specs of a flagship Samsung or iPhone for a quarter of the price.

 

 

???????????????????????????????/

 

 

I think Blackrose has been infected.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, dmr said:

A wire cup brush in an angle grinder for that sort of thing, or even better a needle gun, but the chimney collar needs to come off and I fear that there is a good chance that the rust has gone right through the steel. If you plan to keep the boat for any length of time then welding is the only solution. It might be possible to do a short term bodge with car body filler.

Even if the rust has not gone right through there will likely be some significant pitting and you will need to get 99% of the rust out of these if you want your painting to last.

 

...............Dave

 

 

and I suspect that without a needle gun that will be close to impossible given the degree of deep? pitting. I fear the best she will be able to do is cleat the rust  as best as she can and use an angle grinder to get the surface a s  rust fee as possible. Then, I would try a Dremel type device with a small stone to try to    clean the pits but I suspect rust killer (Vactan) and sanded off when cured so the real primer can get to the steel but with treated rust in the pits may be the best way to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

???????????????????????????????/

 

 

I think Blackrose has been infected.

 

We're talking phones dude! ?

3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

and I suspect that without a needle gun that will be close to impossible given the degree of deep? pitting. I fear the best she will be able to do is cleat the rust  as best as she can and use an angle grinder to get the surface a s  rust fee as possible. Then, I would try a Dremel type device with a small stone to try to    clean the pits but I suspect rust killer (Vactan) and sanded off when cured so the real primer can get to the steel but with treated rust in the pits may be the best way to go.

 

I respectfully disagree. It's perfectly possible with an angle grinder/wire wheel. I've prepped a lot worse than that and got to the bottom of all the pits. By all means use Vactan if you want to but it still needs to be properly scurfed out.

Edited by blackrose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

I can see that you are, but I cannot see that anyone else is.

 

Maybe I'm missing some posts ?

 

Maybe you missed the phone signature at the bottom of the picture.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

and I suspect that without a needle gun that will be close to impossible given the degree of deep? pitting. I fear the best she will be able to do is cleat the rust  as best as she can and use an angle grinder to get the surface a s  rust fee as possible. Then, I would try a Dremel type device with a small stone to try to    clean the pits but I suspect rust killer (Vactan) and sanded off when cured so the real primer can get to the steel but with treated rust in the pits may be the best way to go.

 

That's the method that I use, a little grinding stone on the Dremel gets mostly into the pits but it takes ages. As long as I can 99% of the rust out of the pits I am happy to use Bondaprimer rather than Vactan. The rust under my chimney collar did not look half as bad as the OPs but a couple of pits were still 2mm so I do suspect the OPs roof will have a few perforations.

 

...............Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rust under the chimney collar is a common problem, though the deep rust up to the handrail makes it more serious. Any boat welder will have seen this before and know how to fix it. The flue will have to come out which might just result in a new one if the old one is in bad shape, but again this is routine stuff for a boat welder. With the flue and collar out you can get a hand in to pull any insulation out prior to welding.

This is all worse case, there is just a chance there is enough steel left, but the chimney collar has to come off anyway.

 

..............Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.