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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/08/20 in all areas

  1. Looking at your picture it looks to me that the stop valve is a washered one and fitted the wrong way round. If this is so the washer jumper would be pulled down on to the seat when the pump is operating. Because the tank has not much head to keep the washer off of the seat as it would in a normal domestic instalation where you have plenty of pressure. As the tank level goes down the static head gets less and the tap jumper would get pulled down harder onto the seat stopping the tank emptying any further. Check that the arrow on the valve is pointing away from the tank. If you have a gate valve then ignor all this. In any case I would change the valve for a ball (full flow) one and mount it directly on the tank where it should have been in the first place.
    4 points
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  3. You may have a point - do it next time. On the other hand, if you haven't already been guaranteed a second life, you may just have to fit all you can into this one...
    2 points
  4. NickNorman says it right. As these batteries are an unknown quantity a hydrometer is the quickest and easiest way to assess them. Get one, tell us the results and we might suggest what to do next. You probably wont get back to the full 1.277 but an equalisation might well get 1.26 or so which might be adequate for you needs. Trojans are good batteries so its worth spending a bit of time sorting them out. Hydrometers are fiddle messy things but are a very useful to have. ................Dave
    2 points
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  6. The thing about older boaters that have been doing it for years is that they and their boat are pretty much "sorted". If you are a crumbly like me but lacking much experience then the learning curve is steep particularly if it includes an unknown boat. Getting the boat and yourself as "sorted" as the old hands just adds to the time, trouble, worry and expense. The OP is in his early 70's and fit so he says. When I was in my early 70's I too was pretty fit but now in my very late 70's I know those few years have taken their toll on my strength and endurance. Believe me I know 'cos I've been helping out a newby and everything takes twice as long as it once did. In the end it is a matter of can the OP's finances stand the hit if it all goes pear shaped?
    1 point
  7. I think you are right, I may have worded it badley
    1 point
  8. Yes, but when I replaced mine doing it as per the photo blocked the nipple. I think the casting did not have a large enough hole to allow grease into the groove with the shaft at angle.
    1 point
  9. Loosen Big Nut (which is actually a bolt) at the top first by 3 or 5 turns. Then ENTHUSIASTICALLY waggle the ram's head and tiller till they come loose on the rudder post. You may need wedges or a scissor jack under the boss to encourage it. Remove Big Nut(bolt). Lift off Ram's head. Undo four socket cap screws holding the bearing housing. Undo the grub screw(s) that clamp the bearing to the rudder post (I think I can see one at the front, in line with the grease nipple, there may be others.). Pull bearing and square housing off the rudder post. You may well have to strip the paint off and/or resort to violence to get it moving. Clean bearing and housing, with diesel or paraffin, renew bearing if needed. Remove grease nipple and check the passage is not full of rust. Refill the bearing with grease. Refit as reverse of removal. Grease all the bolts well when refitting. N
    1 point
  10. Blown cill in 5 days....so they can do it when the hire boats are involved.....
    1 point
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  13. It's overkill. This will be looked upon as a great mistake that was blown out of all proportion in the future. Heaven help us if next time its an ebola scale virus rather than one nearer to the common cold. Possibly? She does watch a fair bit between her 12 hour shifts looking after terminally ill kids. I spose an old retired schoolteacher will have more idea about it than she does with two nursing degrees.
    1 point
  14. Each and every I mean every single time the news is on every time every day covid is mentioned. Every breakfast TV programme as in every time it is mentioned. Dream on.
    1 point
  15. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  16. While you are at it, change that tap for a full flow lever ball valve. Much more reliable and a lot quicker to shut off in a hurry.
    1 point
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  20. That was the beauty of youth the time when you could try things out and have room to fail, as long as no one was hurt you ended up a bit wiser and just got up again and tried something else.
    1 point
  21. True, but readers also shoudn't get too carried away over the quiet pump thing, eh? Frequently, the first you know of a fresh water problem is hearing the pump kick in when it shouldn't.
    1 point
  22. We had a mechanic who we called Jake the Fake, he rebuilt a Caterpillar generator engine,unfortunately the box he was standing on to reach contained the rockers, the bastard wouldn't start.
    1 point
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  24. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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  26. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  27. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  28. Just do it,and if challenged,plead ignorance. If just transiting,don't stop. From Castlefield to Preston Brook it's 20 miles lock free.
    1 point
  29. Ask at Uxbridge Boat Centre, they must know someone
    1 point
  30. Not sure, and I cannot find my copy of the BS to look. Imperial sizes are mainly used by ancient machinery and American manufacturers. Some belt lengths are quoted in either 8ths or quarter inches so a 50 inch A section belt could be labelled A50, A200 or A400. If the belt is a bit over 4ft around, or nearly 2ft long when held in a tight loop I would expect it is 50 in pitch length. If your belt tension is adjusted in the normal way by moving one pulley, or an idler wheel you can usually get away with either the next standard size up, or the next down. Sometimes you can go either way. N
    1 point
  31. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  32. No, I believe that somebody has already invented that word...
    1 point
  33. And then there are the less considerate ones ...
    1 point
  34. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  35. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  36. You may find they're ok. Our shared boat has four Trojan-a-like batteries which are 10 years old. They were chronically undercharged for a lot of that time. Since fitting solar and keeping them topped up they seem to have recovered to an extent, usual daytime charge voltage about 28.6 v and they stay over 25.4 v overnight running the fridge, inverter and odds and ends. I regularly put in a L or more, of water (well, a couple of times a year).
    1 point
  37. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  38. Or just unscrewing the filler cap and doing the same thing? Try running a tap with the filler cap unscrewed in case that vent is blocked and there's a vacuum formed in the tank as it empties as someone else said. You've got an integral tank, sounds like the OP has a stainless tank. They don't need repainting.
    1 point
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  40. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  41. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  42. Long shot, there is a vent on the tank to let air in as it empties?
    1 point
  43. And then only throw away the leftover bits
    1 point
  44. We had a cracker of a storm last night followed by an amazing sunset.
    1 point
  45. Turned our first numpty away here yesterday. Asked him to text his name to our data base for track and trace which is what EVERY other of the thousands of visitors have done since its incepetion. No chance comes the reply I am not taking part in any track and trace system. Bye bye we says poiltely you aint getting served here. Off he trotts in his sign written van with telefone number on the side what a peelock.
    1 point
  46. I didn't start boating years ago to have to cruise to appointments or deadlines and I refuse to do it now. Its supposed to be a placid pleasure occupation, not an organised mad dash.
    1 point
  47. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  48. That's now 3 problems the OP has posted with a brand new boat. The toilet (which turned into a water pump and PRV issue), the water/oil in engine bilge and now the stern gland. Why on earth doesnt the OP ring up Colecraft and get them to sort it? It is a brand new boat (upwards of £100,000!). We have just bought one from Aqualine and I expect them to sort problems especially a drip every 10 secs from a stern gland that looks like it has no packing. If the OP tries to do any changes by himself ...ie new water pump because of a toilet issue, or changing the packing on a stern gland, then he could risk loosing the warranty on those bits. Colecraft are one of the best builders and will certainly sort out your teething issues. Get Colecraft to come out and sort out the stern gland. Rain into the engine bilge might be worth mentioning to them if a few of the drains have been blocked during manufacture....some boat builders have been known to accidentally fill drain holes with filler and paint during the build process!
    1 point
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